Sportclimbing

1. Sportclimbing

2. Contents The Origins of Sportclimbing Competition Climbing Coaching Sportclimbing Qualifications and Training Resources – NZOIA Climbing Wall Assessment Syllabus SPARC Sport Team Manager

3. The Origins Sportclimbing and climbing competitions developed as a natural progression from the long established sport of Rock Climbing. Sportclimbing started in France in the 1970’s when climbers began to place permanent bolt anchors. While the first climbing competitions took place around the same time in the former USSR, it wasn't until the 1980’s that a number of national federations began to formulate rules and hold large-scale events. In 1985 the first international difficulty competition was held near Torino, Italy.  The first national sportclimbing event in NZ was held at Elephant Rocks in North Otago in 1987. Similar competitions were held in 1988 and 1999 at Castle Hill and Baring Head. These competitions developed into the first international event held within New Zealand in 1990 and went on to become the New Zealand Nationals in 1991.

4. In 1994 sportclimbing competitions officially moved indoors with the formation of the New Zealand Sportclimbing Federation. The role of the NZSF was to take over the running and sanctioning of events from the New Zealand Alpine Club. The Indoor Alternative With the advent of Indoor Gyms and Artificial Climbing Walls, climbers were able to climb and train at times and in weather that precludes climbing outdoors. In New Zealand numerous climbing walls have been developed and as a result of ready access to these facilities sportclimbing has flourished.    

5. Competition Climbing Due to the fun and excitement generated by sportclimbing more people began to climb on artificial walls and inevitably they began to compete with each other. In response to the growing interest in competition climbing the UIAA, an international climbing organisation, established a set of Competition Climbing Regulations through its subsidiary the ICC. The ICC Regulations have become the world standard and in conjunction with established Age Categories, allow climbers to compete on an fair and consistent basis. Internationally, sportclimbing has exploded into a fully professional world touring circuit often drawing up to 200,000 spectators. Following these trends, the sport in New Zealand is experiencing an almost exponential growth in popularity attracting a diverse range of competitors and spectators.

6. In New Zealand competition climbing typically takes one of the following forms: Fun Events that are typically facilitated the owners of Gyms and artificial climbing walls with the events intended to give people an introduction to the sport in a fun setting. School Competitions allow pupils from different schools to compete with each other but in a less formal environment than in the National Competition Series. These are often between schools in the same area. The National Competitions Series is a formal and internationally sanctioned series of competition events. The series is run annually, commencing with a number of Regional Competitions and culminates in a National Final held before the end of the calendar year. The National Competitions Series is administered by the New Zealand Sportclimbing Federation (NZSF) with competitions run in accordance with ICC Regulations. During each competition season climbers may compete in a number of events and in doing so accumulate points towards their National Ranking.

7. Modern competitions generally require walls that are high and overhanging to provide competitors with challenging routes. The climbing walls used for competitions are typically in excess of 15 metres in height and overhang by up to 6 metres. Difficulty and Speed  There are three main types of competition: 1.     Difficulty competition - a competitor’s place is determined by the height that he/she attains on a route of not less than 12 metres. 2.     Speed competitions - where the time taken to ascend a route determines a competitor's placing on a route of no less than 8 metres. 3.     Bouldering competitions with 7 - 10 problems each of 5 - 7 moves. The final round comprises of 3 - 5 problems of 5 - 7 moves.

8. Coaching Sportclimbing Sportclimbing coaches need to be actively managing risks associated with climbing on top of teaching and developing students technique, climbing fitness and ‘headspace’. Safety: Preferably sportclimbing coaches are trained in risk management and hold industry awards (NZOIA climbing Wall or Rock1). Teaching and supervising safety technique is vital for sportclimbing coaches.

9. Technique: There are many books to help with teaching climbing techniques (see book reference). It is best to use a progression of simple to more complex skills. Climbing Fitness: Both endurance and power need to be developed in sportclimbers. A training regime beginning with endurance and cycling over around three months is a starting point. There is plenty of literature to help with climbing fitness training.

10. Qualifications and Training: NZOIA is the major national qualifications body for the outdoor industry and provides two awards relevant to sportclimbing – Climbing Wall and Rock 1. Training for these awards is through NZOIA or local instructors with higher awards. The NZAC and NZSF have training opportunities for climbing instructors. Local climbing clubs are good places to start to find others who may be able to help with coaching a school climbing team.

11. Resources NZOIA Climbing Wall award Syllabus SPARC Sport Team Manager Document Coaching New Zealand Books: Long, J (2004) How to Rock Climb: Sport Climbing. New York:Falcon Benge, M. Raleigh, D (1995) Rock. Carbondale, CO.: Elk Mountain Press Web Resources: www.nzoia.org.nz www.nzsf.org.nz www.alpineclub.org.nz www.climbing.com