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Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias Schmidt Sewing Advisory And Product Service

Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias Schmidt Sewing Advisory And Product Service Hauptstraße 1 / 74357 Bönnigheim / Tel: 07143 277 250 / Fax: 07143 277 460 / nt@amann.com. Seam Puckering. SS-1 SS-2 SS-3 SS-4 SS-5.

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Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias Schmidt Sewing Advisory And Product Service

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  1. Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias Schmidt Sewing Advisory And Product Service Hauptstraße 1 / 74357 Bönnigheim / Tel: 07143 277 250 / Fax: 07143 277 460 / nt@amann.com  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 1

  2. Seam Puckering  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 2

  3. SS-1 SS-2 SS-3 SS-4 SS-5 Seam Puckering Tests AATCC - Methode 88 B  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 3

  4. What influence has the thread quality on seam puckering? Diameter of thread / ticket number  Displacement puckering Quality of thread / surface (thick places, knots)  Tension puckering  Displacement puckering Quality of thread / construction (difference: spun – core spun)  Tension puckering  Displacement puckering  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 4

  5. Reasons for seam puckering Seam puckering!? Analysis necessary • Feed puckering • Displacement puckering • Tension puckering  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 5

  6. Seam puckering – Identification of different pucker types  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 6

  7. Tension puckering Causes and remedial actions  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 7

  8. 1) Idealised, theoretical model 2) Reality approaching thread distribution 3) Effects of excessive tension under the stitches in the case of oversized and thus unfavourable stitch length Tension Puckering – Lockstitch seam Lock Stitch Seams On Longitudinal Section  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 8

  9. Tension Puckering – Lockstitch seam Influence Of Thread Tension Thread tension 150 g Thread tension 50 g (Shirt fabric, 2 layers)  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 9

  10. Tension Puckering – Lockstitch seam Comparison of the amount and distribution of sewing thread * * Stitchtype 301 / 4 Stitches per cm / 2 fabric layers  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 10

  11. Tension Puckering Tensionmeter: Schmidt Pesola  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 11

  12. Measuring of thread tension • Low and even tension for • trouble free sewing • no puckering Tension Meter (e.g. Schmidt / Pesola) Thread tension: 50 – 60 g  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 12

  13. Tension Puckering – Double chainstitch seam Needle thread tension too high Looper thread tension too high Optimal needle and looper thread tension To identify an incorrect adjustment of thread tension at colour fitted fabric is optical nearly impossible!  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 13

  14. Tension Puckering – Double chainstitch seam 1. Optimal Adjustment of thread tension Seam appearance top Seam appearance bottom: Needle thread loops and loops of the looper thread are visible Unravelled seam After unravelling looper thread, the loops of the needle thread are visible and even  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 14

  15. Tension Puckering – Double chainstitch seam 2. Needle thread tension too high Seam appearance top Seam appearance bottom: needle thread loops uneven and sometimes not visible on the bottom Unravelled seam After unravelling looper thread, the needle thread loops disappear sometimes completly in the fabric  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 15

  16. Tension Puckering – Double chainstitch seam 3. Looper thread tension too high Seam appearance top Seam appearance bottom:looper thread chain is very thighten Unravelled seam After unravelling looper thread, the needle thread loops are visible and evenly big  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 16

  17. Tension Puckering – Double chainstitch seam 4. Needle thread tension too low / Looper thread tension too high Seam appearance top Seam appearance bottom: Needle thread loops too big Unravelled seam After unravelling looper thread chain, needle thread is visible in long and uneven loops.  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 17

  18. How To Avoid Tension Puckering…..? Lock stitch: • Adjust bobbin thread tension to a low level (bobbin case with bobbin rolls down easy but with small resistance) • Adjust needle thread tension as low as possible – accordingly to bobbin thread tension • Check stitch balance by opening part of a seam and measuring needle and bobbin thread (optimum should be same length on both systems) Double chainstitch : • Adjust needle and looper thread tension accordingly to page 14 • Check stitch balance by opening part of a seam and measuring needle and bobbin thread (optimum should be 1/3 needle thread and 2/3 looper thread  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 18

  19. Displacement puckering Causes and remedial actions  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 20

  20. Displacement puckering Interlocking of needle and bobbin - thread in centre of fabric (stitch type 301)  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 21

  21. Lockstitch Double chain stitch Displacement puckering  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 22

  22. Puckering caused of the yarn displacement which depends on sewing thread size The thinner the sewing thread, the smaller the weave yarn displacement by the interlocking of the seam ! SabaC 150 SabaC 100  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 23

  23. Place requirement of the sewing thread in the fabric  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 24

  24. Displacement puckering When sewn exactly in grain line of the fabric, needle and sewing thread always displace the same fabric threads from their origin position. Caused by the sidewise moving of the weaving threads, there will be unavoidable a shortening of the fabric in seams´s longitudinal direction. From this resulting puckering formation runs symmetrically cross the seam. On the bias the shortening of the fabric threads will be spread.  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 25

  25. How To Avoid Displacement Puckering…..? • Use double chain stitch instead of lock stitch when possible • Use thinnest sewing thread possible – and accordingly thin needles • Check for optimum stitch density – too many stitches per cm increases displacement puckering • Avoid double stitching (closing seam + 1 or 2 needle topstitching) • Avoid decorative topstitching with thick sewing threads  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 27

  26. Feed puckering Causes and remedial actions  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 28

  27. Feed puckering  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 29

  28. Feed puckering Different Transport Systems: Drop feed Drop feed + needle feed Drop feed + puller feed Drop feed + differential top feed  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 30

  29. Puckering – caused by wrong sewing equipment • Choosing of the right sewing equipment according to the fabric • Pressure foot and / or transportation foot • Stitch plate • Feed dog • For heavy fabrics (e.g. Jeans): • Big teeth on feed dog and big distance between the single teeth (min. 1,6 mm) • Big needle hole in stitch plate • For light fabrics (e.g. shirts) • Small teeth and short distance between the single teeth(app. 1,2 mm) • Small needle hole (correlation between needle hole and needle app. 70 %)  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 31

  30. Feed puckering How To Avoid Feed Puckering ? • Adjust pressure foot pressure as low as possible • Use feed dogs with fine teeth • Try Teflon coated pressure foot • Use machines with differential transport • Use additional puller and check for right speed adjustment • Check timing and general adjustments of feed dog • If necessary, reduce speed • Guiding the material by the operator (“Stop-and-go-sewing”)  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 32

  31. Puckering – Influence of sewing General Adjustment at the Sewing Machine: • Feed dog and/ or puller feed • Thread tension bobbin* • Winding construction (tension) for bobbin* • Hook adjustment • Change and insert the needle* • Threading* • Adjust the needle thread tension* and the • Thread take up spring • Adjustment pressure foot * Could be done by the operator  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 33

  32. Seam Puckering Influence of sewing and design  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 34

  33. Seam Puckering – Influence of sewing Lockstitch Stitchtype 301 Double chain stitch Stitchtype 401  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 35

  34. Seam Puckering – Influence of sewing Side seam: Double lapped seam Safety seam  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 36

  35. Seam Puckering – Influence of sewing Sleeve insert seam: • French seam • 2 or 3 seams with attachment • Seam width: 10-16 mm possible • Sleeve insert seam: • Safety seam  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 37

  36. Seam Puckering – Influence of sewing Hem: Curved shirt hem Straight shirt hem  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 38

  37. Some final remarks • Laying some seams close to each other or on top of each other, the risk for puckering will be higher, because the displacement puckering adds up. • Puckering on existing seams can not be „eliminated“ by other seams. Puckering on closing or serging seams will also appear in the „final seam“. • There are fabrics which pucker spite of optimal sewing parameters. • Seam puckering comes back after ironing.  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 39

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