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The Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization and the ‘Green Wall’

The Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization and the ‘Green Wall’. Transition sensitized consumers and aid marginal farmers in a changing climate. Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD. ‘Black henna’ temporary tattoos are a major source of the epidemic of PPD sensitization.

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The Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization and the ‘Green Wall’

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  1. The Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization and the ‘Green Wall’ Transition sensitized consumers and aid marginal farmers in a changing climate Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

  2. ‘Black henna’ temporary tattoos are a major source of the epidemic of PPD sensitization. • ‘Black henna’ is NOT henna, it is PPD • Henna is NEVER black. • Of every 100 people who have a ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo, 50 will be sensitized, and 20 will be severely sensitized to PPD. • A patch test of 10% PPD will sensitize 100% of people in 5 or fewer applications. All ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo pastes contain 15% to 60% PPD. Cultural and holiday use of ‘black henna’ is globally popular. • A sensitization assay in 2015 in the UK found that 16% of middle school children are already sensitized to PPD, largely from ‘black henna.’

  3. 2030: predicted crest of PPD sensitization epidemic in USA and Europe • As of 2015, I estimated that there are 150,000,000 individuals sensitized to oxidative hair dye through vacation souvenir ‘black henna’ temporary tattoos; a larger number have been sensitized through cultural use. • Children who are sensitized to ‘black henna’ temporary tattoos are rarely advised that they should not use oxidative hair dye in the future. • If these people use oxidative hair dye, the reactions may be severe or fatal.

  4. Oxidative hair dye sensitization map for 2030 • Light gray: <25% sensitization as result of ‘black henna’ use in vacation areas by young males and females. • Dark gray: sensitization >25%. Adult females frequently use ‘black henna’ in celebrations and cultural practice.

  5. Transition consumers away from oxidative hair dye at the first sign of allergy • Many people who were sensitized by black temporary tattoos are cross sensitized to other oxidative dyes. • At the first sign of allergy, transition consumers to pure henna, indigo and cassia. • Properly sourced , these can be used directly over oxidative hair dye without cross-reactions or allergies. • Correctly used, these plant dyes cover gray and are permanent.

  6. Why use crushed pure leaves instead of lawsone and indigo powders or pre-mixes? g g • Henna, indigo, and cassia leaves contain dye precursors. • Their intermediates, aglycones and indoxyls, MUST be in contact with hair as a wet paste for a few hours for the these molecules to migrate into the cuticle, bind permanently to keratin and create a stable, non-fading color. • By themselves, lawsone and indigo molecules do not dye hair. g g

  7. The current henna products are unsatisfactory; adulteration is widespread and undeclared The most common adulterants are metallic salts used as mordants to shift color rather than relying on the intermediates to bind to keratin.

  8. What will you need per million consumers? • If 16% of a 1 million person consumer base will be allergic to oxidative hair dye: 160,000 will need to be transitioned to an alternative. • Each graying person needs about 1/2 kilo total per year of plant powder to maintain their hair color (doing roots only). • Proportionally, these people use 60% henna, 30% indigo, and 10% cassia. • 80,000 kilos (80 tons) per year will supply these customers. You’ll need • 50 tons of henna • 25 tons of indigo • 5 tons of cassia

  9. Improve the standard for hennaCompounds and pre-mixes won’t work • 100% pure lawsonia inermis leaf • Free of sand • Confirm free of adulterants, metallic salts, and contaminants • HPLC: 1.3% minimum lawsone, preferably 2.5% (most stock is <1%) • Sift 150 μm • LUKE II: confirm free of pesticide residue • Heavy metals panel if irrigated

  10. Current henna production in India and Pakistan India • 55,000 tons per year, growing at 9% per year. There is no surplus. • Henna is presently a monocrop in the Sojat region. Monocropping has advantages for larger scale production but if there is a failure from weather or pests, it is a large scale failure. Pakistan: • Excellent milling technology in place • ‘Blow over’ of dangerous pesticides from cotton fields • Flooding can destroy plantations

  11. Where can you expand the henna supply? • Temperature 11C to 50C for 50 years. • Sandy, dry, and iron bearing soil is ideal. • Salinized soil is acceptable. • 3” – 10” precipitation per year is adequate; henna will tolerate prolonged drought. • During the first 3 years, drip may be necessary to establish the plants. • Greenhousing is not economically viable. • Mechanical harvesting is not efficient. • Henna farming is carbon negative.

  12. Improve and increase the present supply of henna, indigo and cassia to meet rising demand • India: expand current production from Rajasthan to Gujarat • The Green Wall area of the Sahel is ecologically ideal for expansion; henna is already cultivated, though on an small and unimproved scale. • Baja California and northwest Australia have potential for intercropping in salinized soils. Some areas of the West Indies may be suitable.

  13. Expand henna in the Sahel: the Green Wall • Rainfall is low, from 4 to 24 inches per year. • Henna is indigenous to the region. • Henna trees require 3 years of investment, but return income for 50 years. • Henna is already understood and cultivated by smallholders: smallholders produce better quality henna than plantations. • Henna improves financial security for the farmer. • Henna’s root system holds soil against desert encroachment.

  14. Begin to build henna cultivation now for 2030 • A present there are only two main henna cultivars in production in India. There is a significant range of wild stock in Africa that has not been explored. Sample and geotag wild plant stock; breed and improve a diverse stock of henna. • Breed henna to a predictable maximum lawsone content, resistance to damp, cold, and to extended drought. • Assay local marketplaces across the Sahel, build on existing networks. • Work with small (single hectare) local farmers to identify the most favorable microclimates and soils: establish SMALL contract farming.

  15. Increase and improve henna processing • Solar dryers produce clean, quality leaf. • Mitigate the sources of contaminants and adulterants: haboob, ground contact, stone mills. • Assay henna mills across Africa and see which is best suited for improvement and growth. Moroccan mills produce the best sift. • Industrialize only as necessary, use labor when it is the better option. • Gender: focus on female farmers and developers.

  16. Presently, indigo is the most difficult to source. Grow, process, and ferment indigofera tinctoria. • Indigo is an annual subtropical crop, a nitrofixer, and needs no fertilizer. • Primary investment is in improving fermentation, drying, and packaging. • Traditional indigo fermentation vats are environmentally friendly, but are slow. Ferment shredded leaves in pH 7.8 vat inoculated with Clostridium isatidis for efficient fermentation optimally at 49-52C. • To maximize dye content, gain more precise control of fermentation and drying. Then, mill and sift in humidity controlled conditions and seal in air-tight packaging. Do not freeze.

  17. Merge improved henna, indigo, and cassia into the modern hair dye industry • Free from metallic salts and adulterants, these plants can be used to immediately transition sensitized people from oxidative dyes. • Sifted through a 100 mesh screen, these are easy to apply and rinse. • Packaged in double wall envelopes, powders retain quality for 3 years if kept between 10C and 25C. • OTC product will be the most important development; that is where most people will suffer unexpected injuries.

  18. There is a bonus to developing henna to a higher standard than the current supply: In addition to recapturing clientele lost to para-phenylenediamine sensitization: • Henna will eliminate head lice and nits • Henna will eliminate dandruff • Henna will eliminate athlete’s foot. • Write an FDA monograph on henna for topical use with a higher henna standard than currently exists for hair, and develop a USP henna standard.

  19. How urgent is it to begin reintegrating henna into the hair dye industry? Google ‘hair dye allergic reaction’ and click on images.

  20. References: • Demirci, G. T., Altunay, I. K., Atis, G., Kucukunal, A. “Allergic contact dermatitis mimicking angioedema due to paraphenylendiamine hypersensitivity: a case report.” Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology. [Epub ahead of print] Dermatology, Sisli Etfal Training and Research Hospital, Istanbul , Turkey (Dec 19, 2011) • Broides A, Sofer S, Lazar I. “Contact dermatitis with severe scalp swelling and upper airway compromise due to black henna hair dye.” Pediatric Emergency Care, 27(8):745-6 Pediatric Emergency Department, Ben-Gurion University, Be'er-Sheva, Israel. (2011) • Almeida, Pablo J., et al.. “Quantification of p-phenylenediamine and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone in henna tattoos.” Contact Dermatitis66, no. 1:33-37. (2012) • Özkaya E, Yazganoglu KD, Arda A, Topkarci Z, Erçag E.. The "henna stone" myth.” Indian Journal of Dermatology and Venereal Leprology79:254-6 (2013) • Abdulla, Kamil A; Davidson, Neil McD, "A woman who collapsed after painting her soles." The Lancet. (September 7, 1996).

  21. Brooke, C. “Estate agent mother 'killed by extreme allergy to L'Oreal hair dye”' The Daily Mail (February 17, 2015) http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2957303/Estate-agent-mother-killed-extreme-allergy-hair-dye-wasn-t-recorded-medical-notes-despite-20-visits-GP-rashes-itchy-eyes-swelling.html#ixzz4C8RYk7tVaccessed June 20, 2016 • Amzein, A. “Two women die of henna poisoning in Marj” Libya Herald, (October 24, 2015) https://www.libyaherald.com/2015/10/24/two-women-die-of-henna-poisoning-in-marj/ • Kligman, A. M. 1966. “The identification of contact allergens by human assay. 3. The maximization test: a procedure for screening and rating contact sensitizers.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 47 issue 5, p. 393-409 (1966) • "Lawsoniainermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects," Ruchi Badoni Semwala, Deepak Kumar Semwala, Sandra Combrinck, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, Alvaro Viljoen. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, June 2014 • International Journal of Systematic Bacteriology. 1999 Jul;49 Pt 3:1025-31. An indigo-reducing moderate thermophile from a woad vat, Clostridium isatidis.Padden AN, Dillon VM, Edmonds J, Collins MD, Alvarez N, John P.

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