Sweater Manufacturing in China

1. Sweater Manufacturingin China Dr Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

2. Sweater Production Process • Making a knitted Panels (Front, back, sleeve) • Computerized Knitting Machine (Stoll & Shima) • Hand Knit Machine • Winding (lubrication) Yarn before knitting • Dyeing Yarn before knitting • Inspection • Washing and Drying • Linking operation • Inspection, Pressing • Packing

3. Panel Making • The first step is to make the panel knitting either by Computer Knitting machine or hand machine. • The decision to make by computer or hand machine is depended on the complexity of the design. • The panel making includes front, back and sleeve. • Sometimes, intarsia design will be done.

4. Panel Knitting Computer Stoll Machine

5. Panel KnittingFully Fashion Knitting

6. Panel KnittingIntarsia Knitting

7. Cone winding & lubrication • One of the important step before panel making is cone winding & lubrication. • The cone winding is to remove dust, dirt or fault on the yarn before knitting. • The lubrication is to reduce the yarn friction before knitting. • It is important the wax should be free of dust and rotated freely during the winding process.

8. Cone Winding & Lubricatingbefore knitting Waxing Waxing yarn during winding process

9. Cone winding and waxing

10. Hand Knitting Intarsia hand knitting.

11. Hand Knitting

12. First inspection on fabric panel Draw thread is removed manually

13. Hank dyeing • The yarn before knitting needs to be dyed with different colour. • It can be done either by hank dyeing or cone dyeing.

14. Hank Dyeing

15. Hank Dyeing

16. Colour Formulationlab dip • Different colour and dyestuff must be prepared carefully from the dye lab. • Receipt will be formed for dyeing process.

17. Lab Dip Preparation

18. Lab Dip Sample Room

19. Cone Dyeing(mass production) • Apart from hank dyeing, cone dyeing is common used in textile. • It has huge capacity (up to 2,000 pounds) for mass production. • Dyestuff will pump from outside to inside and from inside to outside for level dyeing.

20. Cone Dyeing(Package dyeing)

21. Dyed cone

22. Cone dyeing machine(sample machine)

23. Winding before cone dyeing • Cheese package is not suitable for cone dyeing because it is too dense. • It will be rewind into loose package for dyeing. • Today, the plastic cone is used instead of stainless steel (spring) cone as it gives better level dyeing.

24. Loose winding before dyeing

25. Linking process • Linking is to connect different panels (front, back and sleeve) together to form a garment. • Loop to loop connection is done manually for high quality garment. • For lower quality, a simple sewing can be done.

26. Linking

27. Linking

28. Sample room &2nd inspection room • Sample is done by hand machine. • Second inspection is done after linking process.

29. Sample room

30. Second Inspection

31. Washing & Drying • After the linking process (front, back and sleeve are joined together), 2nd fabric inspection will be carried out. • The inspected garment will go to washing and finishing. • This will improve the softness and hand free of the sweater before final inspection and packing.

32. Washing & Finishing

33. Washing & Finishing

34. Final fabric inspection

35. Final Fabric Inspection

36. Final Inspection

37. Final Fabric Inspection

38. Pressing before packing

39. Summary (1) • Panel making for front, back and sleeve • First inspection and remove draw thread • Linking process to make a garment • Second inspection before washing • Washing and finishing • Final inspection and pressing • Packing for shipment.

40. Summary (2) • Additional processes are needed. • Waxing the yarn before knitting • Hank dyeing or cone dyeing before knitting. • Make decision if the panel is to be knitted by hand machine or computer machine. • Sample preparation is normally done by hand machine.