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Costume Final. Justine English. Bustle. A ladies undergarment that assists in supporting the top layers of fabric in the back of a woman’s dress often in the 19th century. Currently, bustles are done using buttons or ties to hold up fabric. Braces.
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Costume Final JustineEnglish
Bustle • A ladies undergarment that assists in supporting the top layers of fabric in the back of a woman’s dress often in the 19th century. • Currently, bustles are done using buttons or ties to hold up fabric.
Braces • Modernly knows as “suspenders” are worn typically with men’s pants. Originally worn in 18th century to hold up breeches. Worn ever since to keep men from the embarrassment of their pants falling down.
Clocking • Around 16th century it was a type of pattern that is embroidered onto socks or hose, runs vertically up leg. Said to remotely resembles the hands of a clock hand from a distance, thus the name. • Not always worn for show, but for the wearer.
Cloche • A fitted woman’s hat created in 1908, that became popular in the 1920’s to 1930’s.. Cloche is the French word for “belle”, and refers to the bell-like shape. Usually made of felt and worn low on forehead. • Repopularized in 1960’s and often reused.
Codpiece • 15th and 16th century piece of clothing that was a covering for a man’s crotch, and actually assisted in accentuating the area. Held by buttons or ties. Still used in leather clothing. • *Predates zipper.
Fillet • Headbandorribbonusedtokeephair up, holdheadpiece, ordecoratehair. Used as early as Greek and Egyptianculture, approximataly 800 BC.
Crinoline • Stiff petticoat or a skirt shaped metal frame to support weight of a woman’s dress into the correct position or shape.
DoricChiton • Worn in 5th and 6th century by men and women in Greece. Made of larger woolen fabric, pleated and draped. Pinned at shoulders. Upper edge is draped to hand over breast. One leg left open. • Dyed, striped patterns, and fancy borders were popular.
IonicChiton • Rectangular fabric, lighterfabricthanwool, oftendyedbrightcolors and embroidered. Garmentwasfullerand abletomake more folds. Doesnotdrape in overblousebutpinnedtoshoulders and arms.
HobbleSkirt • Long skirtwith a narrowhemwornaroundtheearly 1900’s. Sometimes has a restrictivepiece of fabric, braidedrope, orother material thatisrelativelytightbelowtheknees.
Norfolk Jacket • C. 1860’s. Single breastedjacketwith box pleats, veryloosefitbutbelted. Originally a shootingjacket so thatarms and elbowswereeasytomove.
Peplos • C. 500 Bc- Tube-likefabricwornbywomen in Greece. Belted at middle. • Standard forGreekwomen.
Fedora • Hat that is creased lengthwise and pinched at sides and front. • Popular in the late 1800’s • Originally for women, but became designed for men
Petticoat • Woman’s undergarment to be worn under skirts. • 16th to 18th century • Worn for warmth and to give extra shape
Pillbox • MilitaryHeadgear- uses chin strap • Popular in 1960’s forwomenafterinfluence of Mrs. Kennedy • Small round hatworntowards back of head
Himation • Used in AncientGreece . Itis a heavy drapeputoverthechiton, works as a cloak.
PumpkinHose • Ballooned pants thatwerevery short and full. Coverupperthightokneegiving a rounded look tohips.
PartiColored • Piecingmanydifferentfabricsintooneoutfit. Predominant color brokenbypatches.
Inverness • Loosebeltedcoatwith a cape with a closefitting round collar.
Jabot • Originallythefrill and ruffles at front of shirt. Evolvedintoneckwearwith lace and rufflespinnedonneckbandor collar. 1650 and on.
Leg o’ Mutton • 1890’s sleevethatgrew in volumeovertheyears. Tapersfromonelargeendtosmallend.
Mantle • Loosecloaklikegarmentwornoverclothing in 12th centuryon. Similar to a cape and wornbybothsexes.
MerryWidow • 1955 corseletnamedafter 1905 operetta. Haddemi cups and shortergirdle. Hadslimpanels of blackelasticyarnnettingwith heavy zipper hiddenbehindhook and eyes and alllined in nylon voile.
MobCap • Round gathered/pleatedbonnettocoverhair, withribbon and frilledbrimusually. 18th century.
MorningCoat • 19th century- usedforhorsebackriding in morningsbeforereplacingfrockcock as formal wear. Single breastedcoatwithfrontpartsmeeting at middlewithonebutton, thencurvingtotwo back tails. Can be grey orblackwithpointedlapels.
Balaclava • Originally 1800’s headgeartokeep British troopswarm in winterwar. Coversface and neck, leavingeyearea open. Modernlyforwinter sport protectionorworkprotection.
Chlamys • AncientGreekcloakmade of woolwithdecorativeborderfrequently. Originallywrappedaroundwaistbutlaterwrappedoverelbows. Foryoungmessengersorsoldiersonlygarmenttheywore.
Bodice • 16th to 18th centurywomen’sarticle of clothingthatcovernecktowaist, ortheupperportion of thedress. Originallymade of twopieces of fabriclacedtogether.
Cummerbund • 1600’s adoptedfromtribes. Sasharoundthewaist, oftenpleated, thatiswornwith a single breastedjacket. Part of modernblacktiemalewardrobe.
Fibulae • Broachoftenmade of bronzeoriron, coated in enamal and oftenhavepreciousgems. • Originatedaround 14th century BC and used in Roman and Greekcultures and stillmentionedbriefly in Medieval times
FrockCoat • Victorianmen’scoatthatwaskneelengthand doublebreasted. Has reverse collar and lapels- cutseperate and a tightfit at waist. 18th century.
Diadem • Ornamental headband, orcrown • Jeweledornament in halfcrownwornbywomen and placed overforehead • Otherheadwear of royalty can beconsideredDiadem, such as Greek and Romanrulers. • Dates around 100 BC on.
Hennin • 1428 and on, was a woman’sconeorsteepleshapedheadress. Oftenaround 12 inches, but as high as 36 in tall and tilted back at anangle.
Empire Line • Beginning in late 18th century, shape of a woman’sdress. Has a fittedbodiceendingunderbreasts, withlong and loosegatheredskirts
Kolpos • Blousing of tunic, chiton, ortunicin ancientGreece. Extra length of fabrichangsdown and isfolded.
Doublet • 15th centurymen’sclosefittedjacketthatwas hip orwaistlength and wornovershirtordrawers. Oftenleft open in a “V”.
Peplum • Flaredruffleattached at waistline • OR • Garmentworn in AncientGreecethatwentovershoulder and draped at waist.
Petasus • WidebrimmedhatwornbyAncientGreeks and Romanswithbroadbrim.
Fichu • Largehandkerchieforshawllikegarmenttocoverlowneckline of bodice in 18th century.
Gauntlet • Style of glovethatextendstocoverforearm. Some flexible and someused as armor in 15th century and MiddleAges.
Plus Four • Breechersortrousersthatgofourinchesbelowtheknee( addedfourinchestoknickerbockers.) Easiertomove and associatedwithsporting in 1860’s and on.
Godet • Skirtthat has inserts at seamsnearbottom of hemtoaddvolume and flare, as well as increasemovementassociatedwiththe 19th century.
Redingote • Type of coat • Women: • 18th cent usedonhorseback originally bulky. Towards 19th century tailored jackets worn • Newer form is tight at torso, belted, and flares at bottom. • Men: • 18th to 19th centurylongcoat, fittedfrockcoat.
Reticule • A handbagthat has a drawstringfrom 18th to 19th century. Usuallymade of beadingorbrocade.
Snood • Modernlyis a tubular neckscarf similar to a closefittedhoodover back of head • Originated in theMiddleAges as a hair net type of covering. Connectsovercrown and fitslooser at necktoholdhair. • Popular again in 1860’s-’70’s • Popular during WWII
Teddy • Femaleundergarmentthatcovers torso and crotch in onepiece. • Typicallyloose and sheer • Type of lingerie • Originated in 1910 as a camiknicker • Reappeared in 1990’s as lingerie
Toga • AncientRomantraditionalgarment. • Clotharound 20 ft longwrappedaroundbody and made of wool. Wastobewornoverlinentunic. • After 2nd cent BC onlyRomanmalecitizenscouldwear toga
Tricorne • 1700-1800 style of hat • Triangular shape- broadbrimthatwasturned up and pinned at sides and back • Usedfor regular dress and militarydress • Oftenwornwithpointfrontforcivilians • Militarymayturntoleftorrightforgun use
UnionSuit • Onepieceundergarment • Originallydesignedforwomen in 19th centurytobelessrestrictive, thensoonadoptedbymen • Buttons up frontwithoptionalflapoverbehind.
