Apparel 1 Obj. 5.03

1. Apparel 1Obj. 5.03 Reducing bulk in seams

2. What is Bulk? • Bulk is the extra fabric in the seam allowance. • It can make a seam stick up or keep it from lying flat. • It can be uncomfortable.

3. Trimming • Trimming is used on enclosed seam allowances. (Hems, collars etc.), and in armholes and back seams of pants. • Cut both the seam allowances to an even width, usually 1/4-inch.

4. Trimming • If the trim is at a corner, then cut off the point and cut toward the corner with diagonal cuts.

5. Grading • Grading is trimming’s first cousin. It reduces bulk in a seam by trimming the seam allowances to different lengths. • When you grade seam allowances, the longest allowance is closest to the outside of the garment. This prevents the seam allowance from showing during pressing. • The smallest seam allowance should be about 1/8-inch when you are finished grading.

6. Grading Note that the green part is the inside fabric. The white part is the outside fabric. The white part is longer and will show on the outside of the garment. When you press, if the white part is shorter, you will see two layers of fabric there.

7. Notching • Notching is reducing bulk in a seam by cutting wedges of fabric out of the seam allowance every 1/4- to 1/2-inch. • Notching is used on outward collars to reduce bulk and let the collar lie flat.

8. Clipping • Clipping is used to reduce bulk on inside curved seams – like necklines. • It is used when sewing two curved pieces together. • Clipping puts enough “give” in the fabric so the pieces can lie flat or go together without puckering. • Clips should be up to the seam line but not through it and every 1/4- to 1/2-inch apart.

9. Clipping • Tiny snips every 1/4- to 1/2-inch is clipping to reduce bulk.

10. Clipping • Sometimes clipping is paired with trimming or grading on inward curves. • When doing that first grade or trim and THEN clip.