BRITISH COSTUME: FASHION THROUGH THE AGES 18th and early 19th century The Georgians / Regency Period

2. BRITISH COSTUME: FASHION THROUGH THE AGES 18th and early 19th century The Georgians / Regency Period

3. Man's Day Clothes about 1738 (left) This gentleman wears a smart summer suit, with the coat tightly fitting. It is made of plain cloth embroidered on edges and pockets, which are raised to hip level. The waistcoat is plain and breeches tight and fastened below the knee. The shirt is frilled at the cuff and around the neck is a knotted muslin or lace cravat. He wears his own hair. For formal occasions a powdered wig tied back with a bow would be worn and his coat and waistcoat would be of patterned silks.

4. Lady's Day Dress about 1750 (right) This lady wears a 'sackback' dress a development from the flowing undress gowns of 17th century. Beneath are a stiff corset and cane side hoops supporting the skirts. The frills of her shift show at the neck, veiled in a muslin 'kerchief' and at the opening of her wing-like cuffs, typical of the 1750's. She wears a round muslin cap, the central pleat recalling the 'fontange' (1690 - 1710). For formal dress she would wear richly brocaded or embroidered silks.

5. Man's Day Clothes about 1770 (Centre) This gentleman wears a plain coat, tightly fitting and cut away, forming curving tails. The waistcoat is shortened to just below the waist and the breeches are longer and tighter than before. His coat has a band collar and he wears a rather stiff stock instead of a cravat. He wears his own hair, but for formal occasions he would have a powdered wig, dressed high and tied at the back. Embroidery and trimming were no longer fashionable except for formal wear.

6. Lady's Day Dress about 1780 This is typical of the simple countrified dresses fashionable towards the end of the century. It is a 'redingote' or riding coat, modelled on a man's coat. The waist is shorter and bosom padded by a muslin 'buffon' neckerchief and hips by a 'false rump'. The hair is a mass of loose curls and she wears a huge hat inspired by a mid-17th century riding hat. Woollen cloth, cotton and linen had become fashionable materials, while silks were worn for evening, as were small hoops since wide ones were only worn for court.

7. Lady's Formal Dress 1802 There was great interest in ancient Greece and Rome. This lady wears 'fashionable full dress', the style based on the drapery of classical statues. The waist is high and uncorsetted, and the materials light in colour and texture. Muslin had become a fashionable fabric. Still 18th century in cut, for day wear her dress would have bodice, skirt and petticoat in one piece. Accessories are varied: a huge swansdown muff, long white gloves, tasselled girdle and feather-trimmed turban.

8. Man's Day Clothes 1805 Informal day dress shown hereis from a sketch of George (Beau) Brummell, the famous dandy of his age, who persuaded men that dark, well cut and fitted clothes were smarter than colourful ostentatious ones. He usually wore a cut-away cloth coat with brass buttons, plain waistcoat matching his pantaloons (which replaced shorter breeches in about 1805), hessian riding boots and a hard conical riding hat, introduced in the late 18th century.

9. Great care was taken in the laundering and tying of his stiffly starched cravat. For evening he wore a black coat and silk pantaloons instead of old fashioned knee breeches. 'Beau' Brummell is credited with introducing and bringing to fashion the modern man's suit worn with necktie; the suit is now worn throughout the world for business and formal occasions. In 1795, in order to raise revenue, a tax was imposed on hair powder by William Pitt. The tax failed as people abandoned wearing powdered wigs and the tax raised just 46,000 guineas.

10. Evening Clothes about 1806 The lady wears a one-piece dress introduced at the end of the 18th century. Its design was inspired by the new interest in classical works of art. It has a high waist, straight skirt unsupported by petticoats and very short sleeves. Contemporaries found it daring and immodest! The material is light and striped. For warmth she has a shawl, wears long gloves and carries a muff.

11. The gentleman's cut-away tail coat of fine cloth with velvet collar, silk stockings, tie wig and bicorne hat recall day clothes of the 18th century. They also anticipate the evening styles of the 20th century. Formal dress is usually a day style which persists, remaining unchanged though long since out of fashion.

12. History is the story told by the winners! Typically you will find on both internet and written history little is told of the poorer classes. This is certainly true of costume in the 18th Century. These are two photos from the popular TV series, ‘Sharpe’. These are examples of the washer-women who followed the troops in the Napoleonic Wars.

13. Note how there is much less cloth of a more basic nature. Far less colour and a great deal more practicality is demonstrated. This would have been a hard life with a great deal of moving from place to place, often on foot, but it provided a level of security for the woman.

14. The family historian raises questions about wealth and poverty. The social divisions continued to widen during the Victorian period which followed. The move into cities and towns increased poverty and disease. Think on these questions: • How might your ancestors have fitted into such a society? • Have you found evidence of relative wealth in your research? • If you’d have been poor how might you have managed? • What kind of community would you have expected to be part of and how much would you have had their support during the hard times?

15. Resources: http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=18th+century+english+costume&hl=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=WL31TqymEcaw8gPor-i9AQ&sqi=2&ved=0CHEQsAQ&biw=1264&bih=624 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1700%E2%80%931750_in_fashion http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1750%E2%80%931795_in_fashion http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Clothing-Georgians.htm