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HISTORY OF INDIAN COSTUMES & TEXTILES FST218 INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION UNIT - 1
INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION (3000-1500)BC
INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION • In the year 1922, archaeologists found a hidden city named Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro which was collectively called Indus Valley Civilization. • They used to have one or two stories' houses built with baked bricks which were identical. Each home had its private drinking well and bathroom. • Both men and women used to get dressed in colorful robes. Women used to wear jewelry made up of gold and other precious stones. • It was also called Bronze age civilization extending from North Afghanistan to Pakistan and Northwest India in today’s context. • Along with Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia Indus Valley is one of the three early civilizations of the Old World. • The Indus valley civilization flourished in the valley of the river Indus. • The discovery of few fragments with traces of a purple dye proves that cotton was spun and woven in India around 3000BC.
Indus Valley Civilization (3300–1300 BCE) • The Indus Valley Civilization, one of the world's earliest urban cultures, exhibited a sophisticated sense of fashion and personal adornment, reflecting their artistic sensibilities and social structures.
INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION • They also used to wear lipstick. A small bronze statue was found of a dancer which shows that they enjoyed dancing and had a great skill of working with metals. • Both men and women are depicted wearing unstitched fabric draped around the body like tunics, cloaks, simple skirts. • Some of the toys found were small carts, whistles shaped like birds, and toy monkeys which could slide down a string. • The ornaments found in that civilization was microbeads which were made up of precious stones having different colour and sizes. • Patterned clothes were in use that time. • Lapis Lazuli objects found in the settlements at Sind, Punjab.
COSTUMES • The costumes of Indus valley civilizationhave been revealed from unearthed figurines. The dress on the clay figurine can be considered as the normal attire of the female of the time. • The waist is bare and a very scanty (short) skirt is worn. The skirt is held by a girdle that is made of beads or of bands of woven material secured by a pin or fastening of some kind. One figure wears a cloak which is wrapped around the upper part of the body. Head-dresses are used which are made of stiffened cotton cloth. • A tight collar that gives an appearance of greater length to the neck is worn by a few of the figurines. • The male figures are generally seen to be nude. Probably a rob with or without embroidery was worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm. • The figure of a man at Harappa might be wearing a close-clinging dhoti. • Footwear as such was not found. Cotton as a fabric was used but no evidence was available as far as use of linen and wool are considered.
COSTUMES • Men: Wore simple lower garments like dhotis or loincloths, often wrapped around the waist and secured with a belt. Upper bodies were typically bare or adorned with shawls. Men typically wore a simple lower garment similar to a dhoti, made of cotton, which was draped around the waist and passed between the legs. Upper bodies were usually bare, but some evidence suggests the use of shawls or cloaks during colder seasons. The famous statuette of the "Priest-King" depicts a man wearing a patterned robe draped over one shoulder, hinting at the use of decorative textiles among the elite. • Women: Women wore skirt-like garments, possibly akin to early versions of the sari, wrapped around the lower body and sometimes paired with a short blouse. Some figurines depict women wearing elaborate draped clothing, suggesting variations in style based on social status and occasion.
Ornaments Used in Indus Valley Civilization • People seem to have been fond of jewellery and hair-dressing. • Men had varied styles of hair-dressing. For instance, one wears his hair parted in the middle and the short locks at the back of the head are which are kept tidy by a woven fillet. • Some show the hair woven into a bun after the hair being plaited. Some other figurines show the hair coiled in a ring on the top of the head and in similar rings concealing the ears. Beards were trimmed in various styles. • Metal ornaments were made of gold, electrum, silver, copper and bronze. Stones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, jadeite, carnelian, agate, onyx, Amazon stone, heliotrope, plasma, tachylite, chalcedony, nepheline-sodalite, shell, pottery, faience, vitreous paste; quartz, serpentine and haematite were used. • The ornaments used are girdles, necklace, bracelets, pectorals(chest covering jewellery), beads, cones, ear rings, nose-rings, finger-rings, anklets, bangles and hair-pins.
Lapis Lazuli objects found in the settlements at Sind, Punjab.
THE PRIEST- KING • This is a sculpture of a priest, from the ancient city of Mohenjo-Daro, now in the Karachi Museum in Pakistan. • This is the bust of a man generally thought to be a priest, although he may be a nobleman or even a deity. • His stately appearance is created partly by his meditative expression and partly by the formal drape of his patterned robe or shawl which must have evolved from a defined sartorial tradition. • Dress of Indus valley people consisted of two-piece clothes: upper one and lower one. • The dresses were made of cotton fibres. • Economic status of the people had an effect on their external appearance or outlook. • Women wore skirts and necklaces; men wore an off the shoulder robe.
DANCING GIRL • A figurine, discovered in the same area, is a remarkably naturalistic sculpture of a lithe and graceful dancing girl. • Her stance is relaxed and she wears no clothes but her arms and neck are heavily ornamented with jewellery. • In comparing these two statues, we could conclude that a class difference existed between the people they represent, as each reflects a very different social interpretation of beauty and style. • This may not be the case, as it has been suggested that the Indus valley civilization was multi-ethnic.
There are native tradition was centred on the fertility cults and the worship of the mother goddess, whom the figurine of the dancing girl is said to represent. • Stylistically, it can be described as sensual and is associated with the early fertility cults involving the worship of male and female deities of procreation (origin), whose powers were called upon to induce creativity in all things and stimulate the varying pulse of life itself. • While nudity or minimal use of clothing is often associated with the primitive or undeveloped cultures, the unstitched garment was worn in the sophisticated urban environment and remained the proffered (proposal) form of aristocratic( splendid) dress throughout India’s history.
Gold Jewellery of Indus valley civilization • They liked unearthed jewellery as well as sculptures wearing various forms of jewellery. There was a particularly fascinating selection of gold jewellery. • The ornaments constructed from gold reveal the love for the yellow metal and its significance in the lives of Indus Valley inhabitants.
Accessories: • Jewelry was widespread and crafted from a variety of materials, including gold, silver, copper, terracotta, beads, and semi-precious stones like carnelian, agate, and lapis lazuli. • Both men and women adorned themselves with necklaces, bangles, earrings, finger rings, and headbands. The prevalence of bangles and elaborate bead necklaces indicates a rich tradition of ornamentation. • Hairpins, combs, and decorative girdles were common, reflecting attention to personal grooming and fashion.
Head-Ornaments • The cone-shaped head ornaments constructed from gold were discovered in Harappa. Necklaces • Gold necklaces have been excavated from the Indus Valley. These are likely to have been worn by men and women, as it is believed that men of the Indus Valley wore jewellery too. Rings • Gold rings are part of the jewellery excavated from the Indus Valley, which we believe would have adorned the fingers of the women of the Indus Valley. Pendant • A gold pendant set was also part of the the jewellery. Amulet • There is an amulet too which might have been used to ward-off the evil. The ornament is candle-shaped and appears to be a neck-ornament. • Many figurines and sculptures depicting men and women with jewellery on their neck, ears and arms were found.
Hairstyles: • Men: Hairstyles for men were typically short and neat. Some men may have tied their hair in buns or knots, as suggested by certain male figurines. • Women: Women's hairstyles were more elaborate, often styled into buns, braids, or coiled knots. Decorative hairpins and beads were sometimes incorporated into these styles. Some figurines display women wearing headdresses or hair ornaments, indicating an interest in aesthetic presentation.
INDO-ARYAN AGE (1800-1500)BC
The Indo-Aryans were a group of people who are believed to have migrated into the Indian subcontinent around 1500 BCE. They are associated with the early Vedic civilization, which laid the foundation for many aspects of Indian culture, religion, and society.
Origins: • The Indo-Aryans were part of the larger Indo-European language family, which includes languages like Sanskrit, Persian, Greek, and Latin. • They likely migrated from the Central Asian steppes (possibly around modern-day Kazakhstan) into northern India.
ORIGIN • Indo-Aryan peoples are a diverse collection of Indo-Europeanpeoples who came in the Indian subcontinent. • The Indo-Aryans were part of an expansion into the Indus Valley and Ganges Plain from1800-1500 BCE. This is explained through Indo-Aryan Migration and Kurgan theories(The Kurgan hypothesis is the most widely accepted proposal to identify the Proto-Indo-European homeland from which the Indo-European languages spread out throughout Europe and parts of Asia.). • The Indo-Aryans continued to settle the Ganges Plain, bringing their distinct religious beliefs and practices. • They migrated from Central Asia into the northern Indian subcontinentwhich is in modern-day Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. • The Indo-Aryan culture has evolved particularly inside India itself, but its origins are in the conflation i.e. mixture of values and heritage of the Indo-Aryan and indigenous people groups of India. Diffusion of this culture and language took place by patron-client systems, which allowed for the absorption and acculturation of other groups into this culture, and explains the strong influence on other cultures with which it interacted. • The Aryans were nomads who raised livestock, rode chariots, and loved to gamble. They lived in simple homes. They grouped in clans, and herded sheep and goats. They were ruled by warrior chiefs called rajas.
The Vedic Age (c. 1500–500 BCE): • is a significant period in ancient Indian history, marked by the composition of the Vedas, the oldest and most sacred texts of Hinduism. This era shaped the cultural, social, and religious foundation of Indian civilization. • The Vedic Age was pivotal in shaping Indian religion, philosophy, social structure, and politics, laying the groundwork for later Indian civilizations. • The Vedic literature, composed during the Vedic Age, profoundly influenced Indian religion, philosophy, and culture. It laid the foundation for Hinduism and shaped India's spiritual and intellectual traditions.
The Vedas (Knowledge): • The core scriptures of Hinduism, written in Vedic Sanskrit, are considered śruti (heard or revealed). • Rigveda: The oldest text, containing hymns dedicated to natural forces like Agni (fire) and Indra (rain and war). • Samaveda: Hymns and chants for rituals, particularly musical recitation. • Yajurveda: A guidebook for performing rituals and sacrifices. • Atharvaveda: A mix of hymns, spells, and incantations related to everyday life, medicine, and mystical practices.
Language and Literature: • Sanskrit, the language of the Vedas, became the medium for classical Indian literature, philosophy, and science. • Later epics like the Mahabharata and Ramayana draw heavily from Vedic themes and values.
LIFESTYLE • Social life and healthy bond between the members. • Women played an important role in the family. They also excelled in education. Apata Visvara and Ghosa were a few who even composed mantras. • Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food were common. Wheat and barley was the common food grains. Drinks included the Soma and Sura which were intoxicating and was drunk during festivals. • The dress consisted of two or three garments- an under garment, garment and a cloak. These were made of wool or skin and colored yellow and red. • Gold ornaments such as necklaces, earrings, anklets, and bracelets were common and was worn by both men and women. Women enjoyed equal status and received education with the men. They also freely participated in public life.
'Aryan' became associated with ethnicity and, especially, with light-skinned (Caucasian) superiority, only after Western European scholars began translating, and often misinterpreting. • Theories had been advanced earlier regarding a correlation between Sanskrit and European languages, but this concept was popularized by the Anglo-Welsh philologist Sir William Jones in 1786 CE who claimed there was a common source for these languages which he called Proto-Indo-European. • The work of Gobineau, Chamberlain, and the Aryan Invasion claim would be embraced by the British throughout the 19th and 20th centuries CE to justify their control of India as they were the “Aryans” – a superior race – who were bringing culture and civilization to the less fortunate. • This view was encouraged and popularized by the work of the British archaeologist Sir Mortimer Wheeler who excavated the ancient Indus Valley Civilization cities of Harappa and Mohenjo-daro and claimed his finds supported Muller's Aryan Invasion theory. • Most of Wheeler's work has been discredited in the modern day, as has Muller's invasion theory, and the works of every contributor to a definition of Aryan as referencing Caucasian have equally been dismissed as either misguided, misinterpretations, or intentionally racist. In the present day, the term is understood to properly refer to the early Indo-Iranian and Indo-Aryan migratory group, possibly originally from the region of the Ural River or, according to some scholars, to the Indo-Iranians only based on the continued usage of the term by the great Persian Empires of the Near East.
While the Indo-Aryan linguistic group occupies mainly northern parts of India, genetically, all South Asians across the Indian subcontinent are descendants of a mix of South Asian hunter-gatherers, Iranian hunter-gatherers, and Central Asian steppe pastoralists(cattle farmer) in varying proportion. • Additionally, Austroasiatic and Tibeto-Burmese speaking people contributed to the genetic make-up of South Asia. Indigenous Aryanism propagates the idea that the Indo-Aryans were indigenous to the Indian subcontinent, and that the Indo-European languages spread from there to central Asia and Europe.
Indo-Aryan and Vedic Age (1500–500 BCE) • The Indo-Aryan and Vedic periods saw significant evolution in clothing styles, reflecting both practicality and cultural shifts as society transitioned from pastoral to agrarian life.
LIFESTYLE • The "tilak" or "bindi," as the red dots are called, are an ancient Indian tradition that goes back to Aryan times. • In ancient times, a groom used to apply a spot of his blood on his bride’s forehead in recognition of wedlock. • The Aryans fought with long bows and arrows and bronze axes.They rode into battle on chariots. • They wore two-piece clothing made of wool, animal skins or, later on, linen or cotton. They combed their hair and also wore headdresses. Many adorned themselves with jewellery, ornaments, beads, and trinkets.
CLOTHING • During the Indo Aryan period people wore unstitched clothes. • For men it was a waistcloth along with an Angvastera which was like a shawl wrapped around shoulders. • For women, it was a bottom cloth like a waist cloth an angavastra to be worn around bust.
COSTUMES • Men: Men's attire mainly consisted of unstitched garments. The dhoti was a primary lower garment—a rectangular cloth wrapped around the waist and legs. The uttariya, a loose cloth draped over the shoulders or upper body, served as a versatile accessory. During rituals or formal occasions, men might have worn more elaborate versions of these garments, possibly adorned with decorative borders. • Women: Women wore garments like the nivi (an early form of the sari) draped elegantly around the body, secured at the waist and sometimes covering the shoulder. The uttariya also formed part of women's attire, often used for modesty or protection against the elements. Clothing materials ranged from cotton and wool to silk for the affluent.
Accessories : • Jewelry became more ornate during this period, reflecting social status and wealth. Gold, silver, copper, and precious stones were widely used. • Women adorned themselves with elaborate necklaces (haras), bangles (valayas), earrings (kundalas), nose rings (nath), anklets (nupuras), and waistbands (mekhala). • Men also wore jewelry, though typically simpler—armlets, rings, and sometimes earrings. • Decorative belts, girdles, and head ornaments such as tiaras or diadems were fashionable among the elite.
Hairstyles: • Men: Hairstyles varied based on social and religious roles. Many men kept their hair long, tying it into knots (jata) or buns, sometimes letting it flow during rituals. Beards were common, though some men preferred a clean-shaven look. • Women: Women's hairstyles became more intricate, featuring multi-strand braids, coiled buns, and decorative knots. Hair was often adorned with fresh flowers, gold pins, and jeweled combs. The use of oils and perfumes was common for hair care and grooming.
LIFESTYLE • The Aryans worshipped many gods and goddess. Most of the objects they worshipped were the personification of the forces of nature. The religious beliefs of the Aryans and its essential elements were contained in the Rig Veda. • It was based on the beliefs that…. • The numerous gods and goddess were personifications of whatever that was noble splendid and striking in nature with good offerings as food and drinks has to be made. • Fire was the means of messengers who carried the offerings to the gods . This was done amidst the chanting of hymns of praise . • There were numerous deities, classified under terrestrial, atmospheric, and celestial group. Agni, Indra and varuna were the chief deities. They also included Agni, vayu, surya, Prithivi ,etc. Gods and goddess were worshipped with simple ceremonials with sacrifices. • Indo-Aryans eventually gave up their nomadic lifestyle and settled down. They lived in wooden and bamboo dwellings. An early king, Prithu (probably of the Bharata tribe), was said to have cleared the forests to enable his tribe to settle down in that region.
The Indo-Aryan Migration • Foreigners from the north are believed to have migrated to India and settled in the Indus Valley and Ganges Plain from 1800-1500 BCE. The most prominent of these groups spoke Indo-European languages and were called Aryans, or “noble people” in the Sanskrit language. • These Indo-Aryans were a branch of the Indo-Iranians, who originated in present-day northern Afghanistan. By 1500 BCE, the Indo-Aryans had created small herding and agricultural communities across northern India. • These migrations took place over several centuries and likely did not involve an invasion, as hypothesized by British archaeologist Mortimer Wheeler in the mid-1940s. Wheeler, who was Director General of the Archaeological Survey of India from 1944 to 1948, suggested that a nomadic, Indo-European tribe, called the Aryans, suddenly overwhelmed and conquered the Indus River Valley. • He based his conclusions on the remains of unburied corpses found in the top levels of the archaeological site of Mohenjo-daro, one of the great cities of the Indus Valley Civilization, whom he said were victims of war. Yet shortly after Wheeler proposed his theory, other scholars dismissed it by explaining that the skeletons were not those of victims of invasion massacres, but rather the remains of hasty burials. Wheeler himself eventually admitted that the theory could not be proven.
The Kurgan Hypothesis • The Kurgan Hypothesis is the most widely accepted scenario of Indo-European origins. It postulates that people of a so-called Kurgan Culture, a grouping of the Yamna or Pit Grave culture and its predecessors, of the Pontic Steppe were the speakers of the Proto-Indo-European language. • According to this theory, these nomadic pastoralists (nomads)expanded throughout the Pontic-Caspian steppe and into Eastern Europe by early 3000 BC. • The Kurgan people may have been mobile because of their domestication of horses and later use of the chariot.
The costumes, accessories, and hairstyles from these ancient periods of India reflect a blend of functionality, aesthetic preference, and cultural identity. Their evolution offers insight into the social hierarchies, climate adaptations, and artistic sensibilities of the time.