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This educational piece explores essential concepts of ocean salinity and wave mechanics. It covers the two main processes contributing to ocean salinity, while also delving into desalination methods. The dynamics of ocean waves, including their formation, characteristics, and breaking process, are explained. Key terms such as wavelength, amplitude, and the factors affecting wave height are discussed. Additionally, the piece highlights the importance of ocean currents, including density and surface currents, and the phenomenon of upwelling, which impacts marine ecosystems.
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Do Now – In Notebooks • What is salinity? • What are the two possible ways the ocean became salinated? • Explain one of the desalination processes.
Ocean Waves • Essential Question • How does ocean water work? • Objectives • Identify parts of a wave • Explain the process that causes waves to break • Describe different ocean currents
Waves • A waveis a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. • As a wave passes, only energy moves forward, while the water molecules move around in circles and stay near their original position. • Waves are created by friction from wind.
Wave Characteristics • The crest is the high point of a wave. • The trough is the low point of a wave. • Wavelength is the horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two waves. • Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough. • Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitudeof a wave.
Wave Height • Depends on three factors: • Wind Speed • Wind Duration • Fetch • Expanse of water wind blows across
Breakers • Waves lose energy and slow down as they reach the shore, due to friction with the beach • Incoming crests catch up to slower crests ahead • Smaller crest-crest wavelength • Waves become higher, steeper, and unstable • The crests collapse forward
Ocean Currents • Density Current • Due to difference in temp. and salinity • Move slowly in deep ocean waters • Surface Current • Wind-driven • West to east due to prevailing westerlies
Upwelling • Upwelling is the upward motion of ocean water • Water is cold because it originates from the bottom