Captive Marine Environments

1. Captive Marine Environments

2. We love our aquariums; we keep these because we are human. It makes us aware of the world around us. Exposure to the living world fosters appreciation and caretaking. For the ones that are against zoos and keeping of wild species consider these truths. Humans only love what they know, and people do not destroy what they love

3. Types of coral Reefs • Fringing reefs, Barrier Reefs, and Atolls. • Fringing reefs (Shore Reefs) most common type. • Barrier Reefs; • Extensive reef complexes that parallel a shore, and are separated by a lagoon. • A lagoon is a wide band of water that lies between the shore and the main area of reef development, and contains some deep water areas. • The Great Barrier Reef is the largest barrier reef 1200 plus miles. • It’s actually a very large complex consisting of many reefs

4. Types of coral Reefs • Atolls; • A atoll is a circular oceanic reef system surrounding a large, and most often deep central lagoon. • Most are in mid ocean.

5. Coral AnimalsFlowers of the sea • Corals are sessile, meaning they attach to the ocean bottom, or any site clean of algae. • Corals have a unique partnership called symbiosis that benefits the animal • Corals are animals made up of tiny creatures called polyps • Each soft bodied polyp which are very thin, secrete a hard outer skeleton of limestone, (calcium carbonate), which then attaches onto a suitable site.

6. Coral AnimalsFlowers of the sea • Hard corals (LPS, SPS) • These corals colony’s, live, die, and build up on each other. The result, our beautiful coral reefs. • Most corals contain algae called zooxanthellae. • Which are plant like organisms living in the corals tissues this microscopic life are protected and make use of the corals metabolic waste products for photosynthesis. The corals benefit, as algae produce oxygen, supply’s organic products.

7. Marine Life & Environments • More than 250,000 identified species • Most life in sunlit surface waters (photic zone) • Species success depends on ability to: • Find Food • Avoid Predation • Reproduce

8. Pacific Rock

9. Artificial Live Rock

10. Live Rock • The cornerstone of reef tanks and Fish Only With Live Rock, (FOWLR). From the start in the 80’s when reef tanks became popular, live rock was what brought us over the hump, so to speak, of keeping reef animals healthy and thriving, not just surviving. • Live rock is old coral rock which has been colonized by all different animals, worms, algae, macro algae, coralline, etc. Over time it becomes live rock. • Live rock has many functions, being the bio-filter, live food source, cocepods, anapods, microscopic life, etc., as well as being natural and nice to look at. With it you make a reef.

11. Live Rock • My way is, “Less is more”, because you want to open spaces for fish to swim, not a wall of rock against the back wall of the tank. I call these “Fruit Stand Reefs”, everything is just piled on the back. We want space all around the structure so water can circulate everywhere so that there are no dead spots, and fish can swim in the open comfortably for us to view them. Given a set amount is tough so I start with a little less and build up from there.

12. Live Rock • Live rock comes from many places. Some of which is shipped via air but most is shipped by boat. There is a long time in transit, up to a month sometimes. • Getting live rock from aqua culturists is your best bet, short shipping time direct from their site, tanked for a couple of days, then sent direct to you. It is a short supply chain. • Indo Pacific rock is collected, held for a while, and then shipped to exporters, and then to importers, and then to wholesalers and then to retailers, and then to you. It is a long supply chain. • Buying from Florida farmers, you get the best of both worlds. tampabaysaltwater.com, floridaliverock.com.

13. Live Rock • That being said, Pacific rock is more porous. Finding good, high quality rock can be hard. It is more expensive, but you get more “bang for your buck”. It costs more but you need to use less. Again, do your homework. • In addition, there is nothing wrong with mixing rocks from different areas as it adds bio-diversity. • Just to be aware, frequently you have the opportunity to get rock from other hobbyists breaking down tanks. Be careful, the dropout rate is high. If the rock has coralline growing, that is a good sign. • Live rock will absorb phosphate in tanks and it can leach back into the water. I would stay away if you are not sure. Cheap is not a good formula for success in reef tanks.

14. Live Rock • Building the reef • The 5 “P”s. • Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance. • Like an artist’s pallet, putting together our reef is an art in its self. Plan your structure around what you visualize. Live rock comes in many shapes and sizes. • The way we build it will determine the carrying capacity of the tank. • Build with caves and crevasses out into the water, leaving open areas all around.

15. Live Rock • The spaces, nooks, and crannies with the animals in mind determines the carrying capacity, not the inches per gallon rule. • Fish and inverts need real estate well thought out. Plan on building their homes. A good built, solid structure makes all the difference. • Putting it all together there is two part epoxy putty, super glue (gel), cable ties, etc. • Substrates: • Coral sand, • live sand, (in bags), • different grain sizes, • What we want to keep might influence, what kind, and size.

16. Yellow Tang • (Zebrasomaflavescens) • Flame Angelfish • (Centropygeloricula)

17. Blue Spotted Jawfish • (Opistogathusrosenblatti) • Yellow Headed Jawfish • (Opistogathusaurifrons)

18. Water Flow The circulation of water in our tanks is one of the most important factors for the health of our animals. To me it is at the top of my list. Moving water brings oxygen to our animals and replenishes the water that has been used, (so to speak). We want the surface moving (ripping) when our reef animals have good gas exchange. Their growth is better as well as color.

19. Water Flow Some fish and inverts are (substrate bound). Some are (Site specific). They need water to come to them. Even bacteria will process nutrients faster and more thoroughly. Good flow keeps things in suspension to be used by our animals, (food – detritus), in addition, it keeps detritus from settling in corners or on our rocks where it builds up. How much water to move?

20. Powder Blue Tang • (Acanthurusleucoteron) • Kole Tang • (Ctenochactusstrigosus)

21. Lighting • The function of lights of course is to view our tanks but the lights also drive the necessary photosynthesis giving our plants and coral their vital food source and shapes their behavior, spawning, feeding, and so forth. • We have lots of options, T5’s, power compacts, metal halides, LED’s, plasma lighting.

22. Green star Polyps • (Briareumviolacea) • Blue Mushrooms • (Actinodiscussp.)

23. Brain Coral • (Open brain) • Brain Coral • (Maze)

24. Water Changes • The Solution to Pollution is Dilution. • It’s all about the water. • Water changes are the best filter in your tool kit. • There is known, rule of thumb about changes. • What is the bio load, (light – heavy) • Amount of food being fed daily. • Whether you are using a skimmer or not. • Using chemical media, polyfilters, chempure, etc. • How many gallons in the system. • I would, as a general guide line, change 25% or more per month.

25. Water Changes • Mixing salt water • You will need a separate container just for mixing, (part of your aquatic tool kit). • 5 gallon bucket, plastic garbage can, Rubber Maid or similar. The size depends on the amount of water exchanged. • Always add salt to the water. After a time or two you will have the mix down and it will become second nature.

26. Water Changes • Make sure the salinity, temperature, PH, are all the same as the water in the tank. • Air pump or power head very important, aerate the water for at least 24 hours for it to mix. • To measure the salinity of the water we can use a hydrometer, (plastic). Buy two. • We need a heater as well. Also used once in the hobby, a refractometer. • You can move the water the old fashioned way by bucket brigade, or as I do, use a good water pump that will lift water 5 or 6 feet into the tank from the container.

27. Water Changes • Water change kit • Buckets or food safe containers • Siphons, hoses, • Water pump • Air pump with stone, • Heater, • Towels.

28. Water Changes • Natural or synthetic salt water. • The use of natural seawater come with good and bad. It will contain a multitude of organisms. • Place the water in a dark place for a week or so for the plankton to die off and settle to the bottom, then use it. • You can use it right away but, in my opinion, unless you get it from a real pristine area, or are getting plankton for a reason, (breeding and raising food), it’s a waste of time. How much is it worth to you? • Salt-water mixes have come a long way from the past. All of the major brands are good. Some have added ingredients such as calcium / alkalinity. Some public aquariums use salt mixes.

29. Water Changes • What to use! • R.O. water • Iron Exchange Resins • Poly Filters, chemi pure.

30. Test Kits • What to test for? • Which to use? • Salifert • Elos • Sea Chem • API 5-1 Dip strips • Doing the tests correctly • What we can test for. • Nitrite, Nitrate, P.H., Alkainty (KH) Phospate, Calcium Magnesium, Strontium, plus others’

31. Water Changes • So change your water! • Fish can’t do water changes there a fish

32. Nutrition • Proper nutrition • What to feed our fish? As we have always been told, you are what you eat. • We can give them the best, cleanest conditions possible, but if we don’t meet there nutritional needs, the fish cannot resist disease, they won't show their true colors, or even be healthy enough to breed. • So it’s a vast subject, again we do our research, read, read, read. Nowadays, it is a giant smorgasbord of food available.

33. Nutrition • Variety is the spice of life. I always buy multiple types of foods in small jars (containers) of three or four kinds of foods. • We want marine fish food to be marine in origin. Today’s foods are all very good, also we have vitamins, (Selcon, Vita chem, etc.) to enhance our food for again we want to know the needs, carnivores, omnivores, herbivores. Most fish are omnivores but in my opinion, I feed greens to all because, in the wild they are preying on fish that eat greens so they get it that way indirectly. So just feed high quality foods. Get feedback from other aquarists. • New Life Spectrum • Brine Shrimp Direct • New Life Era • Ken’s Fish • Hikari

34. Clown Triggerfish • (Balistoidesconspicllum) • Picasso Triggerfish • (Rhinecanthusaculeatus)

35. Coral Beauty • (Centropygebispinosa) • Hippo Tang • (Paracanthurushepatus)

36. The Three O’s • Over Feeding • Over stocking • Over crowding

37. Longfellow once said, “Into each life a little rain must fall”

38. Hair Algae Blues • Green hair algae; • We all encounter this pesky algae at one time or another. It is named for its furry, hair like or feathery appearance. • Like most troublesome algae, hair algae thrive in captive environments with high levels of dissolved nutrients, Nitrate / phosphate, (fish poop).

39. So what to do? • First off, there is an old saying in the reef hobby. Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank. Prepare to be patient! • Feed and stock sparingly: • Check your source water: • Step up nutrient export: • Ie., water changes: • chemical media (polyfilterschemiepure, • iron exchange resins etc. • Herbivores for tank, • snails, • crabs, • Fish,

40. EmployMacro Algae • In freshwater aquariums, we use fast growing plants to outcompete the algae for nutrients. In the saltwater side we do the same. By using macro algae that outcompete the lower forms of algae, (micro algae) in the tank. • Replace Aging Lights • Be sure to replace your lamps on a regular schedule

41. Get Down on It • Reach in, go to work, pick, pluck, siphon. • Detecting ammonia, nitrite in the water? • Animals not looking good or dying? • Compatibility issues? • Support equipment failure, heater, filter, etc.? • Those are the things that require a fast response.

42. Gradual Problems Need Gradual Solutions • Few problems develop overnight, (matter of time, weeks, or months). • Sudden Changes Can Be Stressful • Problems related to water parameters such as; specific gravity, temperature, calcium / alkalinity, P.H., • moving away from their desired values, should always be corrected very slowly, as sudden changes can be very stressful, even deadly, to our charges in the aquarium. • Extreme Measures Usually Treat Symptoms • What a lot of people do is treat the symptom not the problem.

43. Some problems aren’t necessarily problems at all! • Bristleworms, are often viewed as nasty, stinging, monsters. • However, the vast majority of these guys are harmless and actually beneficial consumers of detritus. • If your water is out of whack so to speak, them, as well as other pesky pains in the butt, can take control.

44. Bristleworms

45. Some Problems Resolve on their Own • Newly introduced fish will hide for days or longer. Leave the fish alone. If you move the rocks, you will just stress them more. Unless the fish is getting bullied. The same with corals. They might not expand for a couple of days. Do research on care requirements, light, water flow, etc. • You have to “Be the Fish”! What would you do ? Hopefully you have nice neighbors and the welcome mat comes out. That is why we have to do our research, because we don’t want any harm to come to our animals. The information is out there, but I have to tell you, some of the fish haven’t read the books.

46. Equipment and Redundancy • Life support • Having backups • Plan for the worst • Ground fault interrupters, very important • Using timers for lighting (duration) • Use two heaters • Don’t daisy chain, (6 packs) • Use drip loops • Avoiding electrical problems • What to do! (when not home) healthy livestock can go a week or more with no ill effects. We prepare ahead, water changes, clean skimmer, if using one. But, please do it 4 or 5 days before you go. So if there’s changes, your to catch it, before you go.

47. Stocking the Tank • Buying healthy animals. • From reef to retail or exporter, importer, wholesaler, retailer. How they are treated in transport plays a huge role in survival of what you bought. • Where they come from, (region) • Australia, Hawaii, Red Sea, Florida, and most of the Caribbean all are heavily regulated fisheries. The Philippines and Indonesia are areas that still, (but not all), practice improper collections so know your source.

48. Stocking the Tank • Again the “R” word! DO YOUR RESEARCH! • Buying healthy livestock is the key to keeping marine animals. They don’t play catchup so well! You have to start with healthy guys. • You're going to hear the term “Reef Safe” which generally means “won’t bother corals & inverts”. A lot of fish won’t bother corals but prey on shrimp and other inverts.

49. Watching, and Knowing Your Animals • To know your tank. Test on a regular basis, always stay on top of evaporation with good source water. • A lot of animals are bio-indicators, (“canary in a coal mine”).

50. Xenia • (Sp.) • Xenia Coral • (Sp.)