1 / 20

WOOL

WOOL. It’s got to be sheep!!!. Wool Characteristics. Durability and Resiliency Stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry Bounces back when stress is released (elasticity) Fiber Absorbency (Hygroscopic – absorbs water and gives heat in return)

bullard
Télécharger la présentation

WOOL

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. WOOL It’s got to be sheep!!!

  2. Wool Characteristics • Durability and Resiliency • Stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry • Bounces back when stress is released (elasticity) • Fiber Absorbency (Hygroscopic – absorbs water and gives heat in return) • Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. • Works as a temperature regulator by keeping a dry layer of dry air next to the skin.(desert use) • Felting • Scales and superwash process. • Dyeing • Takes dye differently per breed • It dyes in both acid or basic dyestuff. (amphoteric) • Less prone to damage in acid solutions • Resistance to flame • Differential friction effect. • Shrink resistant wool is much less likely to pill

  3. Classification (as per Nola and Jane Fornier: In Sheep’s Clothing): • Fine wool • Long wool • Down type wool • Other wools • Measurement Systems: • Bradford Count: fiber’s quality or spinning count based on how many yards of worsted yarn in a pound. • Micron count: actual diameter of a sample of fibers.

  4. Fine Wool • Fineness of wool is measured in Micron • Fine wools vary from 17 to 33 micron • Breeds that are a merino Cross • Many crimps per inch (look at my breed book) • Felts readily • Washing : A lot of grease – hot water, plenty detergent and small quantities.

  5. Bond (Australia) • Merino ewes to Lincoln rams • 23 – 28 micron • 6 to 7 inches • CVM (California Varigated Mutant) (USA) • Colored variant of Romeldale • 21 to 25 micron • 3 to 4.5 inches • Romeldale (USA) • Romney rams and Rambouillet ewes. • 21 to 25 micron • 3 to 4.5 inches • Columbia (USA and Canada) • Lincoln rams and Rambouillet ewes • 24 to 31 micron • 3.5 to 5 inches • Cormo – • Corriedale rams with saxon Merino ewes • 21 to 23 micron • 4 to 5 inches • Corriedale (Australia, New Zealand, USA, South Africa, Argentina, Chile, China, UK) • British Longwool rams (Lincoln and Englis Leicester) • 26 to 33 micron • 3 to 5 inches

  6. Debouillet (USA) • Delaine Merinos and Rambouillets • 19 to 24 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Polwarth (Australia) • Lincoln x Merino Ewes were bred back to Merino rams. • 21 to 26 micron • 4 to 5.5 inches • Polypay (USA and Canada) • TargheeXDorset crosses and RambouilletxFinnsheep. • 22 to 28 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Rambouillet (France and USA) • Pure Spanish Merinos (France 1786) • 18 to 24 micron • 2 to 4 inches • Targhee (USA and Canada) • Rambouillet rams and Corriedalexlincoln/Rambouillet ewes. • 22 to 27 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Merino (Australia, France, New Zealand, South Africa, USA, other countries) • 18 to 24 micron • 2.5 to 4 inches • Grease is 25 to 45 percent of total fleece. • Sharlea is the registered name for ultrafine Merino wool. (no higher than 17.5 micron

  7. Longwool • Most originated from British sheep breeds • Wavy crimp pattern • Medium to long staple (5 to 8.5 inches) • Begins at 32 microns to more than 40 microns • Outwear, upholstery, rugs and carpets. • Lustrous or semilustrous. • Washing: Moderately grease, easy to wash (hot water and detergent) • Felting low (exceptions: Gotlan, Borderdale, Romney, Finish and Lincoln)

  8. Blue-Faced Leiscester (UK, Canada, USA) • Crossbred ewes of the most prolific of the British breeds. • 24 to 28 microns • 3 to 6 inches • Border Leicester (UK, Australia, NZ, SA,North and South America) • English Leicester and Cheviot crosses • 37 to 40 micros • 6 to 8 inches • Borderdale (New Zealand) • Crossbreed of Border Leicester with Corriedale • 30 to 35 micron • 4 to 6 inches • Coopworth (NZ, Australia, Eastern Europe, USA) • Border Leicester and Romney stock • 35 to 39 micron • 5 to 7 inches • Cotswold (UK, Canada, USA) • Ancient breed improved with the addition of Lincoln and Leicester blood. • 34 to 40 micron • 7 to 12 inches

  9. Finnish or Finn(Scandinavia, Canada, France, US and NZ) • Originating from several breeds of Scandinavian short-tailed sheep • 24 to 31 microns • 3 to 6 inches • Gotland(Sweden, Norway, NZ) • Developed from the original Swedish short-tailed sheep on the island of Gotland. • 28 to 32 microns • 3 to 5 inches • Lincoln (England, Argentina, Australia, NZ, US and other countries) • Stabilished since 1750 – foundation of the British Longwools • 36 to 38 microns • 7 to 10 inches • Marsham (UK) • Teeswater or Wnsleydale ram with Dalesbred or Swaledale ewes. • 29 to 34 micron • 6 to 14 inches • Romney (Most sheep-growing countries in the world) • Romney Marshes • 30 to 35 micron • 5 to 7 inches

  10. Teeswater (UK) • It is used to cross with other breeds • 30 to 31 microns • 6 to 12 inches • Texel(Netherlands, Canada, France, Germany, UK, USA and NZ) • Developed in Holand from crossing of Old Texel sheep with British long wools. • 26 to 34microns • 3 to 6 inches • Wensleydale (UK) • Provides rams to cross with other breeds. • 30 to 36 microns • 8 to 12 inches

  11. Down-Type Wools • True down breeds originated in Southeastern England • Other sheep that share the same fleece characteristics. • Bred for use as sires of crossbred fat lambs. (meat) • Compact and medium-sized • Crisp feel and spongy handle • Fiber diameter ranges from fine to medium • 2 and 3.5 inches • Well developed spiral crimp • Resilience, loft, bulk and elasticity.

  12. Typically without luster • May produce kemp fibres • Good shape retention and insulation • Crease-resistant • Commercially used to make tweeds, blankets and hosiery • Handspinners can use it for sweaters, socks , throws, blankets and garment made of down-type fleece or blended with other wools. • Washing: Does not felt easily. Moderate grease content. Hot water and detergent. • Preferable preparation method: carding. • Great for socks

  13. Black Welsh Mountain (UK, Europe) • All black fleece • 26 to 33 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Cheviot (UK, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, SA, USA and Scandinavia) • 28 to 33 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Dorset down (England,Australia, Argentina, NZ, USA and other countries) • Southdown rams crossbred with ewes from a number of other breeds.(UK) • 26 to 29 micron • 2 to 3 inches • Dorset (Horn and Pool Dorset) (UK, Argentina, Australia, NZ, USA, SA and Canada) • Dorset Horn is a very old breed • Dorset Poll was developed in Australia by introducing pool gene of corriedale and Ryeland sheep. • 27 to 32 micron • 3 to 4 inches

  14. Norfolk Horn (UK) • Rare breed was the original parents of the Suffolk. • 26 to 19 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Oxford Down (UK, Canada, South America, USA, Cont. Europe) • Largest of the down breed • Originated in England 1830 crossings of Cotswold rams and Hampshire Down ewes (with some Southdown blood) • 28 to 34 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Shetland (UK, Canada, USA) • Introduced by early Scandinavian settlers in Shetland island. • 23 to 30 micron • 2 to 5 inches • Shropshire ( UK, Australia, Canada, NZ, USA) • 26 to 30 micron • 3 to 4 inches • Suffolk (USA, Australia, NZ, elsewhere) • 26 to 28 micron • 2 to 3 inches

  15. Tunis (USA) • 25 to 30 micron • 3 to 5 inches • Southdown (England, Australia, France, NZ, USA) • 23 to 28 micron • 2 to 3 inches

  16. Other wools • Double-coated sheep • Fine undercoat and gradually tapers to a hairy tip • Slight wave or no crimp at all • Colours in some breeds • Might contain Kemp and colored fibers. • Usually processed together (graded as course) • Most contain little grease. • Undercoat felts • Dalesbred,Herdwick, Karakul, Navajo-Churro, Romanov, Rough Fell, Scottish Blackface,Spelsau, Swaledale, • Icelandic

  17. Hair Sheep • Raised for meet • Barbados, Katahdin, Persian Blackhead, Saint Croix, West African, Wiltshire Horn. • No commercial value. Most simply shed each year. • Sheep that thrive in warm temperature.

  18. Primitive and Feral Sheep • First domesticated sheep. • Sheep that was released or escaped and by being isolated developed the primitive fleece characteristics again. • Short, woolly coat mixed with hair or kemp and coloured fleece • Tendency to molt annually. • Some are also rare breed (small numbers) • Boreray, Hebridean or Saint Kilda, Manx Loghtan, North Ronaldsay, Soay,

  19. Other breeds • Jacob • Came from M.East 16th cent. Kept in English parks as ornamental animals. • May contain kemp or show difference in character between coloured portions. • California Red • Cross of Barbados (Barbados Blackbelly + American Rambouillet) and American Tunis (pink beige colour) • Small numbers

  20. Other Wool Classification by Kate Larson • Northern European Short Tail Sheep • Nordic countries, isles of the North Sea and North Atlantic, Shetland, Iceland, Faeroe. • Icelandic, Shetland, Finn, • Long Wool Sheep • British breeds that produce lustrous curly locks (up to 15 inches a year) • Leicester Family (English Leicester, Border Leicester, BFL) • Teeswater, Lincoln. • Down-Type sheep • Sheep that come from the Downs region of England. • Hampshire, Oxford, Southdown (true Down breeds) • Fibers are loft and do not compress easily. Bouncy, slow to felt(great for warmth). • Cheviot, Suffolk, Horned Dorset. • Medium-wool sheep • Fine and strong fleeces. Memory and resilience. • All purpose fleece • Tunis, Columbia, Corriedale, • Fine Wool Sheep • Luxurious with the softest cloth possible. • Romeldale and CVM, Cormo, Merino, Polwarth, Rambouillet

More Related