Labradoodle Puppy Training

1. Labradoodle Puppy Training

2. Reward Training Small treats can be used as lures or rewards. Picture one shows the correct way to hold a treat so that the dog cannot get the treat until he follows the command. Picture two shows how to hold a treat to lower to the ground for a “Down” command. Puppies should learn to take treats gently without biting. Keeping treats steady and not allowing the pup to snap is essential to teaching this. Keep the treat very still and be patient. 1. 2. Once the pup realizes that it cannot help itself to the treat, you may stand up and give commands. If the pup in picture 3 were to jump up I would discourage it with a deep voiced “eerrrr” and give it a “sit” command. Praise and the treat would follow. Clear commands and quick praise are essential tools to a happy working dog. Picture 4 shows two 4 month old pups politely accepting treats for a “Sit”. 3. 4.

3. Leave It “Leave It” means the pup should leave or spit out anything. You must be very firm for this exercise to work. Start by placing a treat in front of the pup’s nose and give the command “Leave It” in a stern voice. The pup may sniff the treat, as in picture 1, but must back away from it, as in picture 2. Reward pup once it has turned away from the food. Be sure to say “Okay” once the treat is offered. Picture 4 shows two four month pups leaving a treat offered to them. Note: if the pup will not leave the food, try a stern “eerrrrr” sound to discourage them. 1. 2. 3. 4. Once you have established a good “Leave It”, it can be used to stop a dog from many behaviours. These include eating garbage off the street, chasing other animals, picking up shoes to chew etc. Always reward a “leave it” with immediate praise.

4. Sit and Down 1. 2. 1. 1. Sit and down are taught using a treat as a lure. To teach the sit place the treat just above the dog’s head and behind his eyes as in the first picture. Keep the treat steady and say “Sit”. Reward the dog when it sits. To teach down, lower the treat to the ground, as in the second picture and wait for the pup to lie down. Praise the dog after each performance. Eventually, the dog will know the command and you may talk from a standing position. 4. 3. Hints: Ask your pup to sit or down for his dinner, to greet people or just as a fun game. Wean dogs off treats by offering a treat randomly—ie only give treats for every second or third request. Praise is also a good motivator so practice your “Good Dog”.

5. Come Come is the most important exercise a dog can learn. It must ALWAYS be taught with a positive attitude and lots of patience. Start with your pup in a confined area or on leash. Allow the pup to become distracted and then call the pup in a happy voice—”Puppy Come” . The minute the pup looks toward you begin to praise him encouraging him to come to you. Reward with a treat. NEVER YELL OR LOSE YOUR TEMPER—You must look friendly and welcoming. Crouching or patting your legs will encourage the pup to come. A crinkly treat bag carried in your pocket also works. The key to a reliable “Come” is a happy attitude and lots of practice. Picture 1, 2 and 3 show handler positions. Picture 4 shows pups being rewarded for a good “Come”. Be careful about only using the “Come” command to call your dog away from having fun—try calling your dog away from a play session and then allowing him to go back and play more. 1. 2. 3. 4.

6. Stay Stay is a handy exercise that teaches self control for the pup. Begin by sitting the pup by your left side. Give a firm “Stay” command using a flat handed signal in front of the dog’s nose. Step away from the dog, gently holding him in position with the leash. Pivot back beside the dog and release the dog with an “Okay” before praising. Do not attempt distance until you are sure the pup knows the command. Also try not to make eye contact, as this is often a sign for “Come”. A 10 second “Stay” is a good start. A sit/stay is a handy command to give a dog when guests arrive at the front door. Use the word stay to mean stay in that position until I come back to you. Using “Wait” to mean don’t come with me or don’t run out of the house/car.

7. Walk on Leash A dog that walks without pulling on the leash is truly a pleasure. The puppy has been trained on a regular buckle collar. It has never been allowed to pull on leash. The pup is gently guided by the leash. If it pulls, the handler must stop and encourage the pup back into position. Treats may be used to lure the dog, as in picture 3, or a stern “Hey” when the dog pulls can be helpful. Try to keep the pup’s attention by talking and praising. At the end of the 4 weeks of training, puppies will not be pulling on the leash. If problems occur later on, please consult a trainer about other helpful equipment.

8. Housetraining Hints I have often thought when I am housetraining a puppy, that I become trained first! You will need to learn the cues the puppy gives before you give it the “run of the house”. The key to successful training is supervision. Puppies need to relieve themselves after they sleep, eat or are active. This puppy sleeps through the night in a crate. I place the crate in a bedroom next to a sleeping person. It improves bonding and is comforting to the pup. Puppies easily adapt to a schedule so accidents can be avoided. I take pups out first thing in the morning. I take them to the place I want them to relieve themselves and say “go potty”, “hurry up” or “go pee” in an upbeat tone of voice. I praise when the pup goes. Praise should be gentle so as not to disturb the pup—let them finish or they will finish in the house! The pup is then taken back into the house for supervised time. The basic rule is that the pup is crated if I am unable to watch them. After crate time, the pup can be taken out for another potty. If the puppy relieves itself, it can come back in for playtime. If the puppy does not go, put it back in the crate and try again in 30 minutes. Hints: If you have left the pup crated for a period of time, always open the door and lead it outside before greeting it—excited pups often dribble urine which is best done outside. If the pup disappears in the house, follow it! Pups will often go into other rooms to relieve themselves and they move quickly. If you catch a pup “in the act” let out a bladder-clenching “HEY” and quickly take the pup to his potty spot outside. On the other hand, you cannot punish or scold a pup for a mess you discover after the fact. They really don’t understand. Clean all messes promptly and spray with a mix of 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts water. If the pup sniffs in this area again take it out immediately. Remember that the pup is still young and that accidents happen. Accidents mean that you need to supervise better.

9. Other behaviours • Chewing—puppies teeth and need to chew things. Provide acceptable chew toys and put things that you don’t want destroyed out of reach. Use a crate to contain the pup when you cannot supervise. Use “Leave It” when you want to discourage chewing and replace the forbidden item with one that is acceptable. • Digging—some pups love to dig. You can discourage digging by using “Leave It” and distracting the dog with a game more acceptable to you. • Barking—dogs bark to alert us. Excessive barking should be curbed by a firm, stern “That’s enough—no barking—grrrr”. Said in a deep growling voice, this is often enough to stop barking dogs. • Jumping Up—As your pup comes toward you, tell it to “Sit” and immediately greet/pet the pup. A hand firmly placed on the dogs chest and a “Sit” command will often cure the jumper.

10. Final Words • I hope you enjoy your new pet. As is often the case, the more effort you put into training your dog, the happier you all will be. • Obedience classes and trainers provide valuable information. Problem behaviours are easier to correct before they become well established.