Facial and body cosmetic massage

1. Facial and body cosmetic massage Dr. Sintija Strautiņa- Strēle, Linda Zeltiņa CIDESCO International Riga School of Cosmetics November 24,2011

2. Massage • Massein (from Greek language) – to press with a hand, to knead. • Massage is a measured mechanical effect to a patient’s/client’s body with a therapeutic, cosmetic and relaxing impact.

3. History • Massage is one of the most ancient ways of treatment. Already for ages in various cultures it has been used for strengthening of human physical and mental health. • The origins of the most ancient massage can be tracked in China in year 2698 b.c., there were medical schools and schools of gymnastics, where doctors gained the necessary knowledge of massage • The basics of contemporary massage were established by Peter Ling ( 1776-1839).

4. hands feet apparatus water special brushes cold stones etc. Massage is performed with:

5. Massage is having effect : • Physiologically. Massage is having effect to a human body as a mechanic irritant. • Psychologically. Major part of the clients perceive massage as a pleasant touch giving a sensual feeling of comfort and relaxation helping to appraise one’s body.

6. Physiological effect of massage • Humoral- mechanically and directly affecting the tissues a formation of histamine, acetilholine and other biologically active substances is favoured • Neuro-reflective- mechanical irritation is perceived by the receptor apparatus in skin, muscles, tendons, cords and internal organs transforming the mechanical energy in a buck fever energy. Flow of impulses from afferent nerves reach the cerebral cortices and thereby induces reflector response reactions of the skin, muscles and internal organs. • Mechanical- tissues are compressed and moved thereby inducing an acceleration of intercellular fluid, lymph flow and blood circulation.

7. Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet • Name, surname • Date of birth • Address, phone number • Medicine taken • Contraindication: • Acute skin diseases • High or low blood-pressure • Varicose veins • Recent operation • Pregnancy • Heart diseases • Epilepsy • Diabetes • Haematomas • Skin bruises

8. Completion of Client’s body analysis and assessment sheet • Occupation • Assessment of muscle tonus • Posture assessment • Skin condition • Cellulites • Fat deposits • Stretch marks • Weight, length, body mass index • Selection of massage zone- massage performed at a particular area of the body or a massage for the whole body • Recommendation for body treatment at home and at the beauty saloon

9. Constitutional types of the body • Ectomorph • Mesomorph • Endomorph

10. Celullite • Aesthetic, cosmetic defect that visually looks as an “orange peel”- a dimpled appearance of the skin.

11. Localised areas of cellulite • Hips • Buttocks • Thighs • Upper arms • Abdomen

12. 1st stage Lymphostasis in subcutaneous adipose tissues. Skin is even, smooth without any changes in color. It takes longer time to heal hematomas and skin bruises. For diagnosing it is recommended to use thermographic films. Stages of cellulite

13. 2nd stage Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis. Alterations of skin relief. Dimples are more apparent at muscle tension. When touching, a lower skin temperature is observed. Stages of cellulite

14. 3rd stage Chronic lymph stasis, venous stasis, a deteriorated microcirculation. Local to a diffuse fibrosis in the subcutaneous fat layer - micronodules, which can be palpated. Skin is dimpled and looks like an “orange peel”. Skin is cold by touch. When pressing on separate thickening areas, one has painful sensations. Stages of cellulite

15. 4th stage Cellulite is apparant also at relaxed muscles. Micronodules are integrated in macronodules. Due to the microcirculatory disorders, the skin in the areas affected by cellulite is cold with a bluish tone. When pressing, one has painful feelings. Macronodules are also called as cellulite stones. Stages of cellulite

16. Posture deviations • Scoliosis • Lordosis • Kyphosis

17. Indications Preventive measures for all healthy humans! • Skin and muscle trophic disturbances • Celullite • Abatement of oedema • Hypertensic, painful muscles • Local fat deposits, obesity

18. Bad overall health condition-heart, kidneys and liver failure, fever, acute respiratory diseases, tonsillitis, sickness, vomiting, Malignant diseases Acute skin diseases Dermal mycosis, furunculosis, nettle-rash, angioneurotic oedema, Lymphadenitis Joint inflammation Thrombophlebitis, thrombosis Blood diseases Chronic osteomyelitis Acute pain Hematoma, acute injuries Acute ulcer stages Uterine hemorrhage Acute gynecological adnexitis Psychic disorders Pregnancy Contraindications:

19. Topographical anatomy of the back • Bones • Muscles • Blood-vessels, lymph nodes • Nerves

20. Topographical anatomy of the arm • Bones • Muscles • Blood vessels, lymph nodes • Nerves

21. Topographical anatomy of the pelvis and leg • Bones • Muscles • Blood vessels, lymph nodes • Nerves

22. Topographical anatomy of the abdomen • Muscles • Blood vessels, lymph nodes • Nerves • Internal organs

23. Topographical anatomy of the chest • Bones • Muscles • Blood vessels, lymph nodes • Nerves • Internal organs

24. Effects of massage To nervous system ( coordinates an integrated activity of all vital functions of the human body): • Reduces activity of sympathetic nervous system • Reduces fatigue, stress and increases the mental work abilities • Improves the transmission of nerve impulse processes. Heart-blood vessel systems: • Blood flows from the internal organs to skin and muscles • Expand peripheral blood vessels • Improve blood supply to tissues and accelerate capillary blood circulation • Affect the tissue trophicity processes • Facilitate and accelerate venous blood circulation • Facilitate heart work and improve blood supply to cardiac muscle • Reduce blood pressure and decelerate heart rate

25. Effects of massage Lymphatic system: • Speed of the lymph flow in largest lymphatic vessels is four mm/sec. Through the thoracic duct ( ductus thoracicus) all the lymph flows through only six times in twenty-four-hours • Massage empties cells from the end-products of metabolism, reduces lymph stasis and oedema. Muscle system: • Affects the blood and lymph flow in muscles • Enhances elimination of lactic acid • Restores muscle capacity two to four times (the number of active capillaries increases in muscles). In1mm² of the cross- section of muscles there are opened and functioning 1400 of capillaries • Increases or reduces muscle tone • Most effective are kneading techniques ( petrissage)

26. Effects of massage Joint and ligament system: • Increases elasticity and agility of ligaments • Influences blood and lymph flow in bones and joints. • Most effectively works with friction. Skin: • Purifies the skin from dead horny cells • Improves blood supply to tissues, increases skin temperature • Affects the venous and lymph flow, decreases oedemas • Improves skin and subcutaneous tissue trophicity • Enhances the activity of sweat and sebaceous glands

27. Effects of massage • Respiratory system- • Reduces the frequency of breathing, • Increases the oxygen intake and the carbon dioxide elimination, • Improves the blood and lymph flow in respiratory organs and muscles • Enhances expectoration • Digestive system- • Improves small intestine peristalsis, • Stimulates blood and lymph flow, thereby improving the absorption of nutrients. • Increases secretion of bile • Internal organs are most effectively affected by vibration techniques of massage.

28. Effects of massage • Urogenital system- • Increases the elaboration of urine, mineral salts, urea and uric acid. • Endocrine system- • Improves blood, lymph circulation, activates functional activity of internal secretion glands. Improves self-comfort.

29. Requirements to cosmetician at performance of massage : • Clothes: in a white color, with short sleeves, comfortable, neat, well ironed • Hands: manicured, without nail varnish, short nails • Hair: clean, not falling onto eyes and face during the procedure • Make-up: a light day make-up • Footwear: light, comfortable, neat, on a low heal or without, not making noise • Bijouterie: no bijouterie( also no wedding ring), an exception can be small earrings) • Perfume: no perfume

30. Hand training

31. Necessary materials and conditions for performance of massage: • Couch • Chair • Towels of various sizes • Towels for compresses/ gloves • Movable table • Small pallets of various sizes • Skin disinfection liquid • Skin cleansing lotions (body peeling) • Massage creams and oils • Body masks, creams and lotions • Disposable panties • Auxiliary materials- napkins, spatulas, etc.. • Clock • Temperature at premises may not be lower than 20-22°C. • Premises shall be painted in warm tones, filled with pleasant aroma and enjoyable music

33. Preparation of the client for a massage • Client’s analysis and assessment sheet shall be filled in • Clothes shall be taken off ( disposable panties) • Bijouterie shall be taken off • Selection of massage pose • For performance of the back massage , hair band shall be used • Placement of the massage bolsters, depending of the chosen pose

34. Placement of massage bolsters • When lying on back • Massage bolster is placed under the neck curve ( not obligatory) • Placed under the knees – straighten out back/neck /waist, hips and knee joint are placed in a physiological position • When lying on belly • Massage bolster is placed under the feet joints. • When massaging the back, the bolster may be placed under the belly. • Neck and head massage is performed on a special chair

35. Preparation of the client for a massage • Cleansing of the skin • Application of the massage oil or cream

36. Massage oils and lotions • Massage cream • Massage oil • Talc powder • Massage gel

37. Posture of cosmetician

38. 5 basic techniques/methods of massage • Stroking ( effleurage) • Friction • Kneading( petrissage) • Percussion ( tapotement) • Vibration

39. Massage techniques • Techniques of classical massage are performed in a prescribed sequence and manner, that are related to the intensity of action and the depth. • Stroking- friction- kneading- percussion- vibration

40. Hand of the masseur is gliding over the skin without shirring it This is the initial technique of the massage, also performed in between the other techniques and at the end of massage. The emphasis is put on the middle part of the stroking. Stroking( effleurage)

41. Rules: • When performing stroking, palms of the hands should fit tight to the client’s skin • There should be no space between the palm and the skin • Hands should be relaxed • Stroking shall be performed gently, smoothly and slowly in a direction of lymph flow-to the nearest lymph node areas

42. Effect of the stroking: • To get introduced to the client’s body • Exfoliation of epidermis • Improves blood provision to the skin • Improves venous and lymph flow, reduces oedema • Relaxes skeleton muscles

43. Friction • A massage technique pushing aside the skin • Performed by fingers and palms

44. Effect of friction : • Increases supply of blood and lymph to the massage area- a warming effect • Loosening cicatrices • Anesthetic • Prepares the skin for the other massage techniques • Improves the agility of joints

45. Kneading ( petrissage) • Effect on muscles Muscle shall be taken in hands, pressed on, lifted upwards and put in the initial position • Longitudinal kneading- longitudinally cross the muscle fibres • Cross-kneading – cross over the muscle fibres

46. Effect of the kneading: • Induces muscle hyperemia • Enhances elimination of metabolic end-products from muscles- restores muscle performance (reduces acidosis) • Improves muscle performance(muscular endurance, strength, elasticity)

47. Percussion (Tapotement) - Very intense effect, increases blood pressure, improves blood circulation, lymph flow, improves muscle tone Performed with palms of the hands, finger tips Rules: • Shall not be applied if muscles are overworked, exhausted and crampy • Arm wrists shall be relaxed • Shall not be performed on neck, heart area, kidney area, abdomen, spinal cord, joints

48. Vibration • a relaxing effect (reducing muscle tension)

49. Vibration • Vibration possesses a particular reflectory and relaxing efffect • Heart rate is slowed down • Reflectory effect to internal organs- normalizes the secretory and motor functions of internal organs

50. Sequence of overall massage • Back • Backs of the legs • Front of the legs • Abdomen • Chest • Arms