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Analysis of cosmetic powders for forensic purposes

4. Methods. 1. Introduction.

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Analysis of cosmetic powders for forensic purposes

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  1. 4. Methods 1. Introduction Cosmetics can be made of natural or chemical substances and made of a powder and a binder phase. The powder phase comprise talk, mica chalk, kaolin, zinc oxide and titanium oxide. In order to get the different colours, especially for the eye shadows, pigments are added (1). The binder phase is constituted of polymeric materials, magnesium and zinc stearate to give a better adherence. Sunflower, coconut or mineral oils as well as certain waxes can be found in the binder phase as well as vitamins, herbals and certain preservatives. Figure 1: Amount of ingredients in typical cosmetics X-ray diffraction (XRD) is a non-destructive method that can be used for the analysis of powders or solids in order to obtain the chemical composition of an unknown. This method is useful as in forensic science it is important that the evidence is not destroyed. Information on the purity and particle size of the sample can also be obtained using XRD (3). Figure 2: XRD of five cosmetic samples Atomic Absorption spectroscopy (AAS) is an analytical technique that can be used to determine the concentration of metal elements in the cosmetic samples. The cosmetic powder is sprayed into a flame of a Bunsen burner. The resulting flame has the colour that is specific of the metal ions contained in the sample. Copper for example gives a green colour, whereas sodium gives a yellow colour (4). X-ray fluorescence (XRF) as XRD is non-destructive and can be used to determine the elemental composition of the cosmetics. XRF gives quantitative and qualitative information about the sample. It is an element characteristic method, depending on the atomic number of the element. XRF of minerals in cosmetics allows a quantitative analysis as well as the differentiations of makeup brands (5). Analysis of cosmetic powders for forensic purposes Geoffrey Boycott University of Kent 3.Expected results 2. Objectives It is expected from this research that comparing the different types as well as the brands of cosmetics will allow to establish the similarities and differences between them. Eye shadows, blushes and foundation powder will be compared to each other, in order to conclude whether can they be distinguished. In previous studies it has been ascertained that the incorporation of nanoparticles in cosmetics as well as the mechanism of action have to be further explored. The toxicity of nanoparticles present in make-up and eye shadows should be explored and analysed. It is assumed that nanoparticles are hazardous to the consumers and therefore it is expected that certain cosmetics could constitute a danger. Figure 4: XRD Of four different Types of makeup From the same brand The aims of this research is to find techniques that allow the differentiation of different types as well as manufacturers of powder cosmetics, such as makeup, blushes and eye shadows. Differences as well as similarities between the products should be established. This is important in the fields of forensic science as the concentrations of the different components in the cosmetics can be determined and compared to the health and safety regulations. It can be checked if the manufacturers stick to the recommended amounts given by scientists. They are widely used in the cosmetic industry and their mechanism of action as well as the consequences for the human organs and skin hasn’t been fully explored (2). 5. Bibliography 1. Toedt, J., Koza D. and Van Cleef-Toedt, K. Chemical Composition of Everyday Products (2005) Greenwood Press. 2. Buzea, C., Pacheco, I. I. and Robbie, K., (2007) Nanomateriales and nanoparticles: sources and toxicity, Biointerphases, Vol.2 pp. 17-71. 3. Yoshida, T., Yoshioka, Y. and Tsutsumi, Y., (2012) The Safety Assessment of Nanomaterials for Development of Nano-cosmetics, YakugakuZasshi-Journal of the pharmaceutical society of japan, Vol.132 pp.1231-1236. 4. Pareek, N., Dhaliwal, A.S. and Malik, C. P. (2012) Biogenic Synthesis of Silver Nanoparticles, Using Bougainvillea spectabilisWilld. Bract Extract, National academy science letters-india Vol.36 pp. 383-388. 5. Kulikov, E. Latham, K. and Adams, M. J. (2012) Classification and discrimination of some cosmetic face powders using XRF spectrometry with chemometric data analysis, X-ray spectrometry Vol.41 pp.410-415. Figure 3: Different brands and types of makeup

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