FASH 15 textiles aesthetic finishes

1. FASH 15 textiles aesthetic finishes

2. aesthetic finishes • aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics • applied to a fabric with express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric—sometimes AKA surface design • additive finishes—finishing chemical added to fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs and abrasion resistance • subtractive finishes—something removed from fabric during finishing

3. aesthetic finishes—luster • luster finishes produce a change in a fabric’s light reflectance • glazed • a friction calendar produces a highly glazed surface • chintz • polished cotton

4. aesthetic finishes—luster cire similar to a glazed finish, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster

5. aesthetic finishes—luster plasticized finish very thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric moire have wood grain or watermarked appearance; used for somewhat formal looks in apparel & interiors

6. aesthetic finishes—luster schreiner have softer luster than most other luster finishes—uses schreiner calendar which has a metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal line per inch

7. aesthetic finishes—luster embossed created using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric

8. aesthetic finishes—drape • drape finishes change the way a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape • transparent & crisp • produced by treatment with sulfuric acid in cotton fabrics; subtractive—called parchmentizing • lawn parchmentized to create organdy

9. aesthetic finishes—drape burned-out produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibers—one fiber dissolves, leaving sheer areas

10. aesthetic finishes—drape sizing fabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine and softeners to add or control fabric body weighting metallic salt or plant-based compounds used to add weight and body to apparel fabric

11. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand embossed some have 3D raised or designed pattern

12. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand • pleated • made using a variation of embossing— • pattern paper (hand)—produces wider variety of pleated designs • machine process—blades pleat fabric as inserted between two heated rolls

13. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand puckered surface created by partially dissolving the surface of a nylon or polyester fabric

14. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand plisse converted from either lawn or print-cloth gray goods by printing an alkali, sodium hydroxide, onto the apparel fabric in the form of stripes or designs

15. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand flocked fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced—can be localized or all over

16. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand embroidered decorated by hand or by machine with a surface-applied thread

17. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand expanded foam colored compound printed on fabric expands during processing to give 3D texture to fabric sheared pile or napped fabric in which the surface has been cut to remove loose fiber or yarn ends, knots or similar irregularities or surface flaws

18. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand brushed after shearing, fabric is usually brushed to clean off fiber ends

19. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand napped layer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of a the fabric by mechanical brushing action

20. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand crepeing special compacting process to produce a fabric with a soft hand—can create an all over texture or localized plisse effect

21. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand fulled improves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body & cover of wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery

22. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand beetled fabric revolves slowly over wooden drum and is pounded with wooden hammer until yarn is flattened into an oval, not round, cross section

23. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand coronized process for heat setting, dyeing and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation emerizing, sueding or sanding process used on fine silk-like fabrics; fabrics moved over two or more rollers with fine emery paper on the first roll and coarser paper on the second

24. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes abrasive wash—pumice or other abrasive material saturated with a chemical and tumbled with fabric or garment chemical wash—chemicals partially destroy fiber & create irregularities; include alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, etc… enzyme wash—similar to chemical wash except uses cellulase (enzyme) to dissolve part of cellulose material

25. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand silk boil-off removes sericin and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure caustic treatment creates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silk—caustic soda dissolves 5-18% of fabric hand builders compounds such as silicone softeners and cellulase enzyme that soften fabric hand http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_8/u_8_2.html

26. participation activity: aesthetic finish identification …using your complete textile sample workbook, identify a fabric in the collection for each of the finishes discussed in class today …this can also help you to complete your textile sample book 