Download
1 / 80
800 likes | 802 Vues
Discover the benefits of anti-aging creams for aging skin. Learn about the science behind retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids, and polyhydroxy acids in treating and preventing skin aging. Developed by Giti Sadeghian, a dermatologist at Isfahan University of Medical Sciences.
E N D
Anti aging creams Giti Sadeghian Dermatologist Skin diseases and leishmaniasis research centre Isfahan university of medical sciences
The cosmetic and beauty industry is one of the world’s oldest professions, dating as far back as 1000 B.C. The use of ointments and oils was recorded on papyrus by the Ancient Egyptians.
Cold cream is said to have been invented by the ancient Greek physician Galen. Galen during the 2nd century. It was called “cold cream” because as the water evaporated from the skin, it gave a feeling of coolness. Yield 8 ounces1/8 tsp borax powder¼ cup distilled water½ cup Olive Oil2 Tbsp grated beeswax1 tsp rosewater
Aging Skin How skin ages depends on a number of factors. The Intrencic factor that determines the way a person ages is underlying genetics. Other internal influences include diet, lifestyle, drug, and alcohol history. Smoking, a cause of premature aging of the skin, has been directly linked with elevations in matrixmetalloproteinase- 1 (MMP-1), which is a zinc-dependent protease responsible for degradation of dermal collagen.
Environmental exposures, including weather changes and pollutants, have a direct impact on skin aging, with the most profound de gradative changes caused by chronic UV exposure with resultant photoaging.
TREATMENT OF AGING • Primary prevention refers to the reduction of risk factors before a disease or condition has occurred • (sun protection). • Secondary prevention is early detection of disease, potentially while still asymptomatic, to allow positive interference to prevent, postpone, or attenuate the symptomatic clinical condition( Using anti aging creams like retinoic Acid Antioxidants and etc) • Tertiary prevention is the treatment of an existing symptomatic disease process to ameliorate its effects or delay its progress • (Chemical Peel Microdermabrasion Laser and etc) • .
Secondary preventionRetinoids: • Increase proliferation and differentiation of kerstinocytes. • Exfoliate of abnormal hyperpigmentation. • Inhibit tyrosinase activity. • Increase normal collagen formation. • Decrease abnormal fibrillar formation. • Elastin formation also increase. Retinoids fading dark mark, evening skin tone ,reducing skin wrinkling and eliminating roughness .
Several weeks of treatment with tretinoin are required before clinical improvement is appreciated. The greatest obstacle to tretinoin use is irritation in the form of erythema, peeling, and stinging which decline with continued use. Retinoids:
Tretinoin (all-transretinoic acid) , a nonselective agent that activates all RARs directly and RXRs indirectly, has been shown to improve the clinical signs of photo aging in controlled clinical trials.
Tazarotene is a second-generation retinoid that selectively binds RAR-gamma and RAR-B . Like tretinoin, tazarorene is effective in the treatment of photodamage. Reduced atypia and restoration of keratinocyte polarity have also been noted after tazarotene therapy.
In a 24-week randomized, controlled, double-blind study, treatment with 0.1% tazarotene resulted in significant improvement in numerous clinical assessments of photodamage. • Additional clinical improvement occurred during an open-label extension and had not reached a plateau by week 52.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs): • About 25years before glycolic acid made its dramatic entry into the cosmetic skin care market in the early 1990, lactic acid had been described as part of the skin’s NMF and was used with great success in skin moisturizers. • There are two main benefits of AHA’s: Moisturization • Wrinkle reduction.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs): They have the ability to 1-Synthesis new collagen and hyaloronic acid, 2- Reduce the cohesion of dead corneocytesto the skin, giving the skin a smoother, less wrinkled, and less mottled appearance.
Although these naturally occurring organic acids are often referred to as fruit acids because they are found in many common fruits such as citrus fruits (citric acid), apples (malic acid), and grapes (tartaric acid), the two most widely used AHAs are not components of fruit. Glycolic acid is a sugar cane derivative, and lactic acid is derived from milk Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs)
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs) • AHA+Retinoids products • It is ideal to couple these products with topical retinoids and lightening agents to enhance these effects. • The effectiveness of AHAs in reversing the signs of aging were also coupled with problems of stinging, burning, and irritation, which were usually associated with a pH less than 3.5.
Polyhydroxy Acids Cream(PHAs) The polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are the next generation of AHAs.
Polyhydroxy Acids Cream(PHAs) • PHAs include • gluconolactone • lactobionic acid, • which are structurally larger molecules than AHAs allowing for slower skin penetration and thus fewer side effects. • without the potentially irritating side effects of burning and stinging .
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) • They provide the anti-aging, skin-smoothing • In addition to the exfoliative benefits of AHAs, PHAs provide additional benefits of • Enhanced stratum corneum barrier function . • Moisturization with humectant properties. • This makes for enhanced skin compatibility and use for most skin types, including sensitive skins. • PHAs are also protective since most of them contain antioxidant properties.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) The most frequently used beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. It is found in most over-the-counter (OTC) products and has been used primarily in the treatment of acne. Part of its effectiveness as an acne treatment may stem from its lipid solubility and ability to penetrate sebum.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs); • More recently, salicylic acid has been used in the treatment of photoaging with in • Office peels of 20—30%. • These can be quite helpful in patients who are unable to tolerate alpha-hydroxy acids since irritancy levels tend to be less with salicylic acid.
AHAs+BHAs In addition, it can be quite useful to combine or alternate both AHAs and BHAs since their mechanisms of action differ, and using both may be quite beneficial.
Vitamin B Cream Panthenol (provitamin B5) is the stable analog of pantothenic acid that has been used in skin care, nail products, and most especially in hair products through its enhanced moisturization benefits.
Vitamin B Cream: • Pantothenic acid wound healing • Through cellproliferation and protein synthesis • Pantothenic acid anti-aging • Through enhanced cell proliferation and healing abilities . • Pantothenic acidmoisturizing and soothing Quickly penetrates the skin.
Vitamin B Nicotinamide (niacinamide) is another B vitamin that has entered the skin care pruduct.
Nicotinamide • Most studies of this vitamin have focused on the Anti-inflammatory • Acne treatment. • The role of nicotinamide as a potential anti-aging ingredient has yet to be explored; • however, one possible role is in the • biosynthesis of ceramides and other stratum corneum lipids anti-aging
Reduction of skin erythema after application of topical 5% Niacinamide
Antioxidants • The use of antioxidants in any anti-aging skin care regimen is essential in order to combat and prevent further damage. • Vitamins have been used to combat free radical damage for many years. Unfortunately, they get used up rather quickly since it takes one vitamin to neutralize one free radical. • Enzymes are more efficient free radical scavengers; however, they depend on the presence of a healthy cellular environment and certain trace minerals to synthesize them. • Spin Traps catch or trap the aberrant electron.
Spin Trap-phenyl butyl nitrone (PBN) The very newest antioxidants, which are known as “spin traps:’ have the ability to catch or trap the aberrant electron as it starts to spin out of control and return it to its orbit before it can do any damage. Although the use of spin traps in dermatology is in its infancy, these compounds show a great deal of promise.
Spin Trap-phenyl butyl nitrone (PBN) • The most well-known spin trap is phenyl butyl nitrone (PBN) • PBN has • Anti-inflammatory, • Neuroprotective and • Age-reversing effects .
Topically applied vitamin E plays an enormous role in protecting the skin from free radical damage. Anti aging Moisturization properties Antioxidant role of vitamin E against the oxidative stress caused by ozone has also been demonstrated . Vitamin E Cream
significantly higher levels of vitamin E in the skin following the application of a cream containing 5% tocopherol acetate over 10 days. • Vitamin E is the most abundant antioxidant found in skin, and it is produced in human sebaceous glands in its alpha- and gamma-tocopherol forms.
Vitamin E • These tocopherols are part of a • Natural protective mantle that has been described and is, in fact, • The first line of protection against environmental • The important role of sebaceous glands and sebum in the production and delivery of vitamin E to the skin may explain the often-made observation that oily skin tends to age more slowly than drier skin. • Perhaps those with oily skin have a higher vitamin E level and therefore more natural protection than those with dry skin.
Vitamin E • The depletion of vitamin E levels in skin following UV radiation has been demonstrated. alpha-tocopherol+ascorbylpalmitateacts as a powerful antioxidant system preventing oxidation. alpha-tocopherol + ascorbylpalmitatecan prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines. Vitamin E +sunscreen enhances the photoprotective effects of sunscreans.
Vitamin C is a major water soluble antioxidant that plays a vital role in photoprotection collagen synthesis. The body reservoir of vitamin C with age, smoking decrease reserves even more. Vitamin C is not produced in the body and must be consumed entirely through diet and oral supplementation. Vitamin C Cream:
Vitamin C Unfortunately, the long-term stability of topical vitamin C preparations remains a concern. The most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water free. Any form of vitamin C that is applied to the skin must convert to the L-ascorbic acid form in order to be recognized by the body and deliver a benefit.
Vitamin C: • Vitamin C is an essential cofactor for the hydroxylation of proline and lysine, a necessary step in collagen synthesis. • Topical vitamin C levels of tissue inhibitors of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinase1(MMP-1) • Fibroblasts in cell culture will selectively secrete collagen when vitamin C is added in a dose-dependent fashion.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C collagen synthesis wrinkle-reducing and skin-firming
Vitamin C: • The ability of topical vitamin C to reduce hyperpigmentation has been demonstrated and has found its way into various skin-lightening products. • Vitamin C is able to lighten hyperpigmented skin through the inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase.
Coenzyme Q10 cream(CoQ10) CoQ10 is a powerful free radical inhibitor that inhibits lipid peroxides from forming in plasma membranes. CoQ10 plays a very important role in cellular energy production and works in the mitochondrial adenosine triphosphate (ATP) energy-producing pathway of the cell . Q10 ATP
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) • As we age, CoQ10 levels diminish, as does cellular energy production, which may improve by adding CoQ10 cream.
cream(CoQ10) • Free radical inhibitor • Enhances ATP • Antioxidant activity • Inhibition of collagenase expression in UV-irradiated skin • Reduction in wrinkles
Idebenone is a powerful synthetic analog of CoQ10, which shows a great deal of promise. In a study comparing the photoprotective properties of topical idebenone to those of vitamin E, kinetin, CoQ10, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, idebenone consistently demonstrated the highest level of antioxidation and photoprotection . Idebenone
At the present time , idebenone is sold under the brand name of Prevage (Allergan, Irvine, CA, USA).
Lipoic acid is a very powerful antioxidantthat has the unusual advantage of being both water and fat soluble Cofactor in mitochondrial dehydrogenases. Cofactor in several multi enzyme complexes involved in energy formation Lipoic acid Anti-inflammatory activity. Lipoic acid
Lipoic acid The human body is capable of producing Alpha–Lipoic acid itself in small amounts. Furthermore the body desorbs this antioxidant from ingested food, like potatoes and meat. In humans, dihydrolipoic acid (DHLA) is able to penetrate the skin, after which it converts into its active by product
Lipoic acid: Topical application of 3% lipoic acid UVB-induced erythema, which demonstrates its photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties. Also, a 12-week study demonstrated that using a topical cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid was quite effective in treating signs of photo- aging.
