July-August 1958 • During a driving tour of Europe with Dean Taylor taking train from Visp to Zermatt. Climbers were told to first visit graveyard.
Monte Rosa • Trip was September 14 to 30, 1963 to Geneva then to London to attend meeting at AWRE – Aldermaston. • Monta Rosa climb was 9/18/1963 New York International Airport Sunset
Monte Rosa – Second Highest Peak in Alps at 15,203 ft was still climbable.
Monte Rosa had not been climbed for several weeks because of weather and snow hazards.
Bergfurher Eddie Petrig decides to climb. Other climbers and guides in the Hutte told him the American could never make the summit that they had not been able to climb for days.
The climb to the summit of the Dufourspitze was in clouds on a snow covered ridge with plaques where climbers and guides had fallen. They made interesting reading while on belay. A snow gulley that Petrig was climbing came lose. He called – “I hope you have it.” I called back “I am bombproof”. After the rope stopped his fall he later told me he had wondered as he was falling what American idiom “bombproof” meant.
. Petrig –Damn IT- Why did you stop? Mader – To take a picture – why are you bitching? Petrig – Because you stopped in the middle of a snow bridge over that big crevasse.
Return at about 4 p.m. Climbers at Hutte met us with hand shaking and hugs. Petrig said “ I told you this old American has climbed more mountains than any of you.”