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Liquid Music

GrapeCraft presents. Liquid Music. Why Aren’t “peak experiences” consistent? Why can’t we vinify by recipe? Why does 10 ppt TCA cause astringency? Is subjectivity arbitrary?. Contemporary Wine Sensory Assessment. Consumer focus groups Difference testing Quality scoring

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Liquid Music

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  1. GrapeCraft presents Liquid Music

  2. Why Aren’t “peak experiences” consistent? • Why can’t we vinify by recipe? • Why does 10 ppt TCA cause astringency? • Is subjectivity arbitrary?

  3. Contemporary Wine Sensory Assessment • Consumer focus groups • Difference testing • Quality scoring • Davis 20-pt criteria sum • Parker 100-pt subjective scale • Criterion-based descriptive scaling • invented attribute “drivers” • linear modeling • Factor analysis mapping

  4. Contemporary Wine Sensory Assessment • Measures behavior rather than cognition • Low R2’s: Who says “drivers” drive? • Group statistics are a blunt instrument which obscures shared experience • Weak non-linear modeling • Alpha testing • high Type II Error (false negatives) • very limited granularity for “tuning” • No sensory standards for holistic drivers: • Harmony, grace, mood, aggressivity, etc.

  5. What is wine ??????? Sunshine held together by water -Galileo “...bottled poetry.” Robert Louis Stevenson “It puckers your mouth.” –Art Buchwald “the beverage of moderation” An expression of place The blood of Christ A fate worse than death! Susan B. Anthony The most gentle and efficaceous of medicines Louis Pasteur “Wisdom and wit to the wise” -Archimedes “Wine is proof that God loves us and desires us to be happy.” Benjamin Franklin

  6. Apollonian vs Dionysian

  7. German Mosel Oz Shiraz fresh mature pure sexy focused fruit integrated voice delicious profound crisp round clean mysterious lean plush deep broad energized muscular beautiful visceral loves sunlightloves fire & moonlight

  8. Winegrowing is just a specialized type of cooking! Our Goals are the same as those of fine cuisine: • Visceral enjoyment of flavors integrated into a refined structure. • Memorable taste expression from careful farming in living soil. • Science is just a tool. Organized knowledge is not our goal. Our work is always fundamentally mysterious.

  9. What is GrapeCraft? “The practical art of touching the human soul with the soul of a place by rendering its grapes into liquid music.”

  10. In a nutshell: Less theory… more technique!

  11. Shared attributes of wine and music • Strong visceral appeal • Revenues from music exceed pharmaceuticals • There are no $100 beers • Non-linear consonance and dissonance (sweet spots)

  12. 1999 CSU Fresno Syrah: Ø26% of the wine was reduced to 10.1% for blending Ø0.1% alcohol increments Ø31 wines between 15.5% and 12.5% v/v EtOH Øn = 22 judges. ØAcclimation voting preference frequencies (Figure 1) ØFour points of harmonious balance obtained ØFree associations descriptive analysis (Table 2)

  13. *** P2 analysis of observed vs. expected: " < 0.1 % (Very Highly Significant)

  14. Table 2 Judge descriptors for Syrah “sweet spots” 18.0% (untreated) Hot, astringent, low fruit expression 15.0 Rich, alcoholic, leathery, complex, Chateauneuf-du-Pape 14.35 Jammy, black pepper, smooth 13.75 Elegant, balanced, long finish 13.3 Clean, blueberry, tart

  15. Shared attributes of wine and music • Strong visceral appeal • Revenues from music exceed pharmaceuticals • There are no $100 beers • Non-linear consonance and dissonance (sweet spots) • Strongly shared sense of harmony • Broad disparity of stylistic preference • Emotion mapping • resonance demonstration • Simultaneity of immediate, proximate and root influences

  16. Composer Performer Listener’s background expectation of musical genres Instrumental Composition MUSICAL APPRECIATION STYLE

  17. Origin Winemaker Taster’s background expectation of historical genres Varietal Composition WINE APPRECIATION STYLE

  18. Clinical Tools for Cognitive Musicology • Behavioral studies of brain injuries • Magnetic Resonance Imaging • Electro Encephalography • Positron Emission Tomography

  19. Music Cognition neurological process mapping identifies the following distinct mental systems: • Logical processing • Sensory processing • Motor processing • Visualization • (daydreaming) • Emotional processing • Pleasure system • Aversion system • Memory

  20. Logical processing MusicWine • Pitch recognition • Timbre identification • Meter determination • Melody processing • Lyrics processing • Tonal context (pitch “as”) • Fault listening • Aroma notes • Terroir distinction • Swirling rhythm • Anticipation / sip • Winemaking story • Genre context • Defects

  21. Bakine, Edeline and Weinberger, 1999: • Neuron tunings in the auditory cortex of guinea pigs can be re-tuned by a few minutes’ training. • Patterns endured for two months. Implications for winemaking: • Consumers trained for panels may not reflect preferences of untrained consumers • Winemakers trained to detect defects may develop enhanced perceptual sensitivity

  22. Motor Processing • Rhythm recognition and reproduction • Instrument operation • Learning • Reproduction from memory • Swirl, sip, spit

  23. Memory Functionality Aroma & Flavor DEFECTS • Short term • Experiential • Computational • Long term Implicit • Procedural • Perceptual Priming • Long Term Explicit • Episodic • Semantic Swirl, sniff, spit I.D. EVENT RECALL sense of place

  24. Emotional Processing • Temporal melody emotional progression • anticipation leading to resolution • Intrinsic mood (underlying theme)

  25. N.M. Weinberger’s case subject “I.R.”: Separate functionality of melody vs intrinsic mood • Bilaterial damage to temporal lobes, auditory cortex • I.Q. and general memory normal • No language difficulties • No melody recognition or recollection • Emotional reactions completely normal!

  26. Wines don’t have melodies but they do carry emotions!

  27. “Blues” processing Males Females

  28. Primary and Secondary Emotions

  29. Love Lust Emotional Shapes(Sentics, Manfred Clynes)

  30. Emotional Processing • Temporal melody emotional progression • anticipation leading to resolution • Intrinsic mood (underlying theme) • Consonance processing cascade • Reward system • Sympathetic nervous system (“relax”) • Euphoria • Dissonance processing cascade • Parasympathetic system (alert to danger) • Limbic system (fight or flight)

  31. Blood and Zatorre, 2001: • PET scan imaging of subjects listening to musical intervals • C / E (perfect fifth) • orbitofrontal area (part of Reward System) • area below corpus callosum (sympathetic?) • C / C# • right parahypocampal gyrus (fight or flight)

  32. Thalamus characterizes stimulus Stimulus

  33. 0.1% Alcohol Difference! Frontal Lobes (Reward System) Thalamus characterizes stimulus HARMONY DISSONANCE Limbic System (danger)

  34. Winemaking Implications • Borrow from musical approaches to quality • Exploration of wine cognitive processing • Map wine style emotions through music resonance • Consumer targeting based on cognitive stage • Increased reliance on trained experts and small groups to “tune” finished wines • Greater emphasis on aesthetic training and crosstraining to evaluate holistic quality imperatives

  35. Thank you for your kind attention.

  36. www.grapecraft.com Order your copy!

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