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The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity

The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity. “Soul Food”. Helen Anglin established the 1 st soul food restaurant “Soul Queen” in Chicago’s South side 50 years ago “Soul Food” did not exist until 1963. African American Culinary Tradition. Centers on two characteristics: Southerness

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The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity

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  1. The Origins of Soul Food in Black Urban Identity

  2. “Soul Food” • Helen Anglin established the 1st soul food restaurant “Soul Queen” in Chicago’s South side 50 years ago • “Soul Food” did not exist until 1963

  3. African American Culinary Tradition • Centers on two characteristics: • Southerness • Commensality

  4. Heritage of Slavery • Food illustrates the struggle of African Americans • Cornmeal & cured pork were staples on plantations • Slaves also grew their own leafy vegetables • Those that resembled African food (turnips, cabbage, eggplant, etc.) • Used animal parts discarded by whites (entrails/chitterlings, pig’s head, pig & chicken feet)

  5. Combined African & American cuisines • Fried Chicken, barbequed pork, boiled greens, sweet potatoes, gumbo • Slaves at large communal meals on Sundays • It was important to pool foods into communal feasts

  6. The Great Migration • With emancipation, Southern blacks migrated north • 1920 – 109,000 in Chicago • End WWII – increased 8 times • Northern Blacks viewed Southern migrants as backward • Failed to conform to standards of respectability of urban Blacks

  7. Chicago restaurants excluded them • Chicago Defender: • “Pig Ankle Joints”: Unsightly, unsanitary eating places and wagons • Prejudice against Southern foods: • Laxative effect, little nutrient value, excessive carbohydrates, hot sauces, heavy meats were damaging to the liver & digestive system

  8. Migration Strengthened Desire to Preserve Southern Traditions • Southern migrants sought out food joints run by people from their hometowns • (lunch counters, chicken shacks) • Outside of industry, food joints were the most popular occupation of migrants • They could be established with ease • Used Southern Names • “Dixie Fish,” “Georgia Food & Fish Hut,” “Hanson’s Chitterling Shack”

  9. African Americans fought the chain restaurants by being aware of customers’ preferences • During the depression years, many failed, buth then increased in numbers • By 1947 Southern Black businesses outnumbered native Chicagoans’ 13:1

  10. Adoption of Migrant FoodwaysInto the Mainstream • A change in integrationist sentiments eased tensions between Northern & Southern Blacks • A sense of racial solidarity was built • Southerners’ ethnic identity revolved around rural culture, Southerness, Commensality

  11. “Soul Food” • Soul Food was “discovered” • Soul food restaurants became “funky” places for whites to go when they crossed to the other side of town to listen to music

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