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Jim Harbertson Associate Professor Washington State University

Wine Flavor 101: The Impact of High Ethanol, Saignée and Extended Maceration on Wine Phenolic Composition. Jim Harbertson Associate Professor Washington State University. INTRODUCTION. INTRODUCTION Color Tannins Polymeric pigments TRENDS IN VITICULTURE/WINEMAKING Saignée Alcohol

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Jim Harbertson Associate Professor Washington State University

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  1. Wine Flavor 101: The Impact of High Ethanol, Saignée and Extended Maceration on Wine Phenolic Composition Jim Harbertson Associate Professor Washington State University

  2. INTRODUCTION • INTRODUCTION • Color • Tannins • Polymeric pigments • TRENDS IN VITICULTURE/WINEMAKING • Saignée • Alcohol • EXPERIMENTAL DATA • ASSESMENT • FUTURE DIRECTIONS

  3. Phenolics-why we care • Several Classes • Contribute Sensory Characteristics of Wine • Color- Anthocyanins and co-factors • Astringency – Tannins and LPP • Bitterness - Catechins • Anti-oxidant Capacity- All phenolics especially those with ortho configuration.

  4. Anthocyanins • pH Dependent • Copigmentation • Self-association • Co-Factors • Color Change • Hyper chromic shift (more color) • Bathochromic shift (blue color) • Ethanol? • Disrupt association • Bathochromic shift • Partitioning of flavonols? • Water? • Disruption, dilution

  5. Seed Tannins • Very Abundant • 3-5 mg/berry • Amount per seed does not vary much • Decline During Ripening • Average Length • 10 sub-units • Astringent • Gallic Acid Ester • Alters protein ppt. • Winemakers usually avoid seed tannins

  6. Skin Tannins • Not so abundant • 0.5 -0.9 mg/berry • Ripening: No specific pattern • Average Length • 32 sub-units • Astringent • Unique sub-unit • Winemakers want skin tannins

  7. Polymeric Pigments • Wine Artifact • Mixture • Anthocyanins+ (tannins, keto-acids, cinnamates, etc.) • More resistant to Sulfur dioxide • Less pH sensitive • Color: brick-red

  8. Rate of Extraction Graphic REDRAWN FROM RIBÉREAU-GAYON 1970

  9. Skin and Seed Tannin Extraction • Pinot noir • Miniature (3L) • Skin Tannin Extraction Fast and Plateaus • Seed Tannin Extraction Slow but Linear Increase Demonstrated Redrawn from Calderon and Kennedy 2008

  10. Polymeric Pigment Formation

  11. ENHANCING PHENOLICS: TRENDS VITICULTURE • VITICULTURE • SMALL BERRIES ARE DESIRED • CLONAL SELECTION, SITE SELECTION • EXTENDED MATURATION • SEED MATURATION • REMEMBER BERRY SHRINKS! • IRRIGATION • EARLY STRESS, MORE TANNIC FRUIT • LOCATION • EXAMPLES AVAILBLE

  12. THE TREND in WA, CA? • Cab Family Fruit • Want Brown Seeds, Less green aromas • Result: High Brix • Result: High pH—more K+, lower Malic • Resulting Wine • High Ethanol • High pH, Low TA • Big Extraction • Lots of color, plenty of tannins • Astringency is muted by ethanol, acidity

  13. How are tannins influenced by ethanol? • Higher ethanol extracts more tannins? • Consensus says more “bad” seed tannins • Bitterness? • Catechins are more bitter with more [EtOH] • Astringency? • Thought that ethanol lowers astringency by making protein-tannin complexes soluble • So more tannins but less “tannic?”

  14. Hang Time Fruit Trend-2 • Small Berries with 25 Brix and above • Increase Skin/Seed: Juice • Problem: Water back necessary to avoid stuck ferment • How to keep skin/seed: juice from hang time fruit? • Answer: Water back and Saignée at the same rate. • Sounds simple enough, right?

  15. Complicated • Wait overnight for dried fruit to rehydrate • Take Brix Measure, Determine total volume of tank • Convert all values to metric it is way easier! • Calculate % of water to achieve target Brix • Bleed that percentage of juice • To calculate the amount of water to achieve target Brix you must subtract amount bled off from total first. • So the amount you bleed is greater than what you add back.

  16. Math involved • M1V1=M2V2 • [Brix]V1=[Brix]V2 • Brix = g/100 mL • Convert Tank volumes to L • Or you could convert Brix into pounds of sugar per gallon. • Ewww.

  17. Calculate the Run-off X=1060.0 L or 280 gallons So you bleed off 1060.L or 280 gallons for a total of 4840.9 L or 1289.6 gallons

  18. Now for the water addition x=870.9 L or230 gallons

  19. Experiment: High Ethanol 10 ton Scale Duplicates Merlot Columbia Valley pH 3.9 TA 0.33 g/100mL

  20. Winemaking Details • Mechanical harvest-Yield 170 gallon/ton • 30 ppm SO2 at destemming • YAN adjusted to 225 ppm with DAP • Yeast Strain “Premier Cuvee”-S. cerevisiae bayanus • Mix after water/SO2 1 minute per ton • Pump-overs 1 minute per ton 3 times a day • Until drain and press (~ 8.5 minutes) • Drained to Tank- Press Fractions Recombined-finish primary in tank • Sent to Barrel to undergo ML • Sensory on wines 1 year after crush

  21. Columbia Basin Vineyard • Merlot BIG CANOPY CLONE 3 9 year old 5 TON/ACRE • Read Veggie to the point nobody likes it! • VINEYARD SIZE • 20 acre~8 hectare • 16 REPLICATES • SAMPLE SIZE • 15 clusters per rep • Evenly spaced across vineyard • Fruit from alternate sides of canopy • 15 Clusters dissected into berries • 30 Berries per replicate for tannins • Harvest date Oct 12-13 • Harvest Data 28 Brix 0.33 g/100mL TA pH 3.9 • Tannin by protein ppt • Row 73-74 • Row 81-82 • Row 89-90 • Row 97-98 • Row 105-106 • Row 113-114 • Row 121-122 • Row 129-130 Sampled Rows • Row 9-10 • Row 17-18 • Row 25-26 • Row 33-34 • Row 41-42 • Row 49-50 • Row 57-58 • Row 65-66

  22. Data 3.45 mg/g FW ~ 3450 mg/L wine potential 19 % Skin Tannin 81% Seed Tannin Berry Weight Variability less than fruit tannin Overall variability similar

  23. Basic Wine Chem

  24. Anthocyanins-

  25. Anthocyanins-Low Saignée

  26. Anthocyanins-High Saignée

  27. Anthocyanins-High Ethanol

  28. Anthocyanins-Low Saignée Ex Mac.

  29. Anthocyanins-All Muddled

  30. Tannin Extraction

  31. Error bars excluded for space.

  32. Polymeric Pigments

  33. Polymeric Pigments Treatment Effect

  34. Sensory Courtesy of Dr. Carolyn Ross WSU PULLMAN

  35. Principle Components Analysis

  36. Assessment • Saignée at the same rate as water back • No effect on phenolics • No effect on sensory • Complicated • Time Consuming • Potentially Wasteful

  37. Assessment • Want more Color or More Tannins? • High Saignée • More anthocyanins, tannins, more SPP • Extended Maceration • More tannins, more LPP • Sensory: Can be more drying

  38. Assessment • Higher Ethanol Wine • More Tannins • Not less astringent than control with large increase in EtOH • More Seed Tannin Extraction • Some Color enhancement • Hot Description • Less Fruit Flavor! • Solubility of aromas in alcohol found in other work • Trending towards less smooth, more dry but more dynamic ~ stats indicate not significant • Is it worth it? • Dilution is the solution? • Greater Volume, lower taxes

  39. Acknowledgments • Linda Bisson UC Davis • Chateau Ste. Michelle • Winemaking: Josh Maloney, Bob Bertheau • Sensory: Carolyn Ross, Karen Weller • Family: Eileen and Andrew Harbertson

  40. Vineyard Data By Row Based on variation across vineyard the winemaking reps should be consistent. No ability to separate rows because of mechanized harvest.

  41. Vineyard Data By Row Based on variation across vineyard the winemaking reps should be consistent. No ability to separate rows because of mechanized harvest.

  42. Tannin/seed vs. seeds per berry Shows that berries with fewer seeds seem to compensate. No relationship between seed tannin/berry and seeds per berry. Good relationship (r=0.81) seed weight and berry weight

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