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Italian Renaissance Dress 1490-1580

Italian Renaissance Dress 1490-1580. Italian Renaissance Dress?. The types of clothing worn by women in the city states and provinces of what is now considered Italy.

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Italian Renaissance Dress 1490-1580

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  1. Italian Renaissance Dress 1490-1580

  2. Italian Renaissance Dress? • The types of clothing worn by women in the city states and provinces of what is now considered Italy. • I have chosen to focus on Venetian and Florentine – good chronology of images due to wealth of cities and prominence of the artists operating at this point in time e.g. Raphael, Bronzino, Titian, Tintoretto etc • Have divided by decades which is very arbitrary but helps to provide an overview. Have not discussed variations of which there were many…

  3. Layers of dress • Chemise • Undergown • Often a partlet • Overgown

  4. 1490s - Venetian • Vittore Carpaccio, 1495: Meeting of • the Betrothed Couple (detail) • Key features: • High waisted – sits under bust • Under dress and over dress – with the overdress cut into a V at the front so the underdress is visible underneath. Some have a V at the back as well. • Bodice sits on edge of shoulder or even off shoulder (see Durer image) • Two part sleeves. Bottom half may be cut open in places to allow the chemise to ooze through. Chemise also visible at shoulder and elbow. Laced in place. Some one part ones as well • - Hair – big knot on top of head

  5. 1480-90s Florentine Domenico Ghirlandaio: Resurrection of the Notary's Son Domenico Ghirlandaio: Birth of the Virgin

  6. 1480-90s Florentine continued • Underdress is laced at the front with either a version of ladder lacing or cross-laced. Is often seen worn by itself (or two dresses of a similar style are worn.) • Bodice slightly lower than Venetian – natural waist • The overdress layer can be either quite loose or even open down the sides or fitted to the bodice area. • Varieties of sleeves – two part, one part with gap at elbow etc • Hair – bun at back and loose curls around the ears popular. Some caps worn around head. • Some have sheer partlets around neck that come to a point at the front over dress.

  7. 1500s Venetian Vittore Carpaccio, 1505: Two Venetian Courtesans • Similar idea to 1490s – high waisted. • One part sleeves open down outside laced at some points to show off chemise. • Variation of colour between bodice and skirt. Vittore Carpaccio, 1502 - 07: The Departure of Ceyx

  8. 1500s Florentine • Bodice sits on natural waist line • Use of guards – often look to be velvet. • ‘Wine bag’ sleeves • Sheer partlet around shoulders – pinned over dress. • Hair in hairnet hanging down back Raphael: The Woman with the Unicorn, 1505 Raphael, c1506: Portrait of Maddalena Doni Unusual in buttons down front and guards

  9. 1510s Venetian • Waist has dropped to natural waist level • Large sleeves – some gather back in at wrist, others are open. Split the entire length of arm • Scuffia– hair ‘bag’ often seen Titian, 1511: Portrait of a Woman Known as La Schiavona Titian, 1511: Miracle of the Newborn Child

  10. 1510s Florentine • Bodice similar to 1500s. • More guards on dress • Variety of sleeves from large drapey ones to much more fitted. Still some ‘wine bags’ around. Andrea del Sarto: Birth of the Virgin, 1513

  11. 1520s Venetian • Transitional. • Bodices have ladder laced front with ties. • Tight highly decorated undersleeves and large hanging oversleeves. Others loose then tight • Rise of the balzo Palma Vecchio, 1520s: Woman In Blue Bernardino Licinio, 1520s: Portrait of a Lady Anon, 1520s: Portrait of a Lady Paris Bordone, 1520s: Venetian Lovers

  12. 1520s Florentine • Transitional • Waistlines move up • Early 1520s is a continuation of 1510s fashion • 1525 onwards moves into the style common in 1530s – similar to later 1520s Venetian DomenicoPuligo, c 1520s: Portrait of a Lady Bacchiacca, c 1520: The Preaching of St John the Baptist

  13. 1530s Venetian • Bodices become much more rigid. • Sleeves – puffy top section – rest straight. • Partlets worn over shoulders. • Some front laced. • Change later (?) to much slimmer sleeves – vestigial puff tops. • More front lacing. BernadinoLicinio, 1533: Portrait Of A Woman BernadinoLicinio, 1530s: Portrait of a Lady

  14. 1530s Florentine • High waisted bodice – under bust. • Two part sleeves – top half to elbow puffy, rest straight. • High necked chemise • Balzos!! But only small.. AgnoloBronzino: A Daughter of MatteoSofferoni, 1530-1532 Ridolfo Ghirlandaio: Lucrezia Sommaria, 1530-1532

  15. 1540s Venetian • Bodice much more rigid and starts to finish further down the torso. • Some front laced others not! • Sleeves often straight, some puffs at top, some slashed. • Partletsaround neck, open at front Unknown artist of the Venetian School, 1540s:Portrait of a Young Woman Paris Bordone, 1545-50: Balia dei Medici

  16. 1540s Florentine • Bodices become rigid and much longer. • Sleeves – gathered puffs at top, rest straight and decorated with slashes. • Partlet around neck. • Move to Eleanor of Toledo dress towards end of decade Agnolo Bronzino: Portrait of Lucrezia Pucci Panciatichi, 1540 Agnolo Bronzino: Portrait de la duchesse Eleonore

  17. 1550s Venetian • Bodice forms a point at the front (sometimes back?) • Some front laced • Sleeves often a small panelled cap at the top with tight lower sleeve • Partlet around neck – open at front. Titian, 1553: Portrait Of A Lady In White CesareVecellio, Costume of Venetian women, 1550

  18. 1550s Florentine (more like 1545 on) • Bodice sits lower on body • Sleeves – 4 panelled joined together with buttons with fold at top. Or just with puff at top and braid spiralled down arm • Hairnets – gold net. • Partlet over shoulders Agnolo Bronzino: Eleonora of Toledo with her son Giovanni de' Medici, 1550? TommasoManzuoli, Elena GaddiQuaratesi, 1550-55

  19. 1550s and 1560s Florentine – rise of the overdress/gown • Could be fitted or loose. • Worn with a sottana (petticoat bodies) or sometimes a doublet underneath • The loose variety often had long sleeves with the fitted versions had cap sleeves with the undergown or doublet sleeves underneath Alessandro Allori, Isabella or Maria de Medici, 1555-8 Florentine school, Eleanor of Toledo, 1557-8

  20. 1560s Venetian • Still variations between front lacing and not. • Start to see loose gowns appearing some with sleeves, some without • Hair in bun at back of head sometimes with plaits. Veronese, 1561: Detail from fresco Follower of Titian, 1560: Emilia di Spilimbergo

  21. 1560s Florentine • Similar to 1550s. • Some bodices lower still • One piece sleeve which has 4 rows of braid down length of sleeves with cuttes in between. • Distinctive braid placement Jacopo Zucchi, Portait of a Woman, 1560-1565 Red dress from Pisa.

  22. Other 1560s Florentine overgowns • A fondness for high standing collars • Usually worn over a sottana • See a number with puffy sleeves Florentine school, Portrait of a Woman, 1560? Allori, Maria de’ Medici?, 1560?

  23. 1570s Venetian • Similarities to 1560s but front lacing becomes wider • Towards the end of the decade waistlines drop and standing collars become more common Andrea Michiel (Il Vicentino), 1574: Detail - Henry III Arriving at the Lido Francesco Montemezzano, c1570s: Portrait of a Woman (possibly Picabella Pagliarani, wife of Giacomo Ragazzoni)

  24. 1570s Florentine • Very similar to 1560s overgown combos • Developing a liking for ‘clown collars’ • Doublet or sottana underneath Allori, Woman with dog, 1570? Workshop of Allori, Women of the Cini Family, 1577

  25. 1580s Venetian • Bodices sitting lower at bust and torso • Shoulder ruffs become more common • Standing collars still popular DomenicoRobusti, c1580s: Portrait of a Gentlewoman with her Daughter  DomenicoRobusti, 1581-84: Portrait of a Lady in White

  26. 1580s Florentine • Hanging over sleeves become popular • Undersleevesoften white with gold trim Allori, Portrait of a Woman, 1580s Allori, Bianca Cappello, 1580?

  27. Good website to view: • Realm of Venus: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net. For all Venetian and Florentine up to 1540 • Festive Attyre: http://festiveattyre.com For Florentine 1490-1550 • Anea Files http://aneafiles.webs.com/renaissancegallery/tuscany.html For Florentine but sadly pics are not captioned!!

  28. Purple Files: http://katerina.purplefiles.net THL Katerina de Brescia’s website. Good articles • Mode historique: http://www.modehistorique.com/blog/?page_id=179 Some lovely Italian gowns

  29. Fabrics to look out for • Velveteens • Brocades – try Spotlight • Silks – if you are lucky! • Canvas for interlining – try Kutwells • Lining – calico or linen

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