C.P.T.E.D.

1. C.P.T.E.D. Locks and Key Control Presented by Sgt. Steve Garst, L.C.C./ C.C.P.S. Little Elm Police Department Little Elm, Texas

2. Locks Definition: “A mechanical, electrical, hydraulic, or electronic device designed to prevent entry to a building, room, container, or hiding place and to prevent the removal of items without the consent of the owner. A lock acts to temporarily fasten two separate objects together, such as a door to its frame or a lid to a container. The objects are held together until the position of the internal structure of the lock is altered – for example; by a key – so that the objects are released.” (Healy 1968, 233).

3. Locks - Generally Do local building codes require them? Strangely, most do NOT How are most locks selected? Builder – based on price Why a quality lock vs. just any old lock? Experienced burglars recognize quality locks and will move on to another target

4. Standard Door Knob Lock Set Actually just a handle for opening and closing a door Generally opens with a key from the outside Generally opens with a thumb turn on the inside Only a very small portion (less than ½ and sometimes lots more) of the latch actually engages the strike Is not considered a security lock Usually low-bid installation by the builder Must be accompanied by a dead-bolt for security

5. Standard Door Knob Lock Small throw engages strike Key required for outside Thumb turn inside (may be key also)

6. Single-Cylinder Deadbolt Defined as a bolt on a lock that is moved by turning a key or knob without activation of a spring Opens with a key from the outside, and thumb turn on the inside Should not be used within 40 inches of a window Should have a minimum 1 inch throw when extended Can be keyed like the standard knob lock

7. Single Cylinder Deadbolt Key required for outside Thumb turn inside

8. Double-Cylinder Deadbolt Same as a single-sided deadbolt with one exception… …It opens with a key on both the outside and inside Use when close to or within 40 inches of a window Should have a minimum 1 inch throw when extended Can be keyed like the standard knob lock

9. Double Cylinder Deadbolt 1 inch bolt throw when exposed Note key required on both sides

10. Captured Key Deadbolt A unique combination of both a single and double cylinder deadbolt The interior side has a thumb-turn that can be removed from the lock with a key, leaving only a keyhole Prices start around $200.00 and go up Useful when fire and local codes prevent double cylinder locks in homes Security depends on people remembering to remove the thumb-turn before leaving the house

11. Captured Key Deadbolt Key used to insert thumb-turn. Key can then be removed Key used to remove thumb-turn, leaving only a keyway

12. “Jimmy Proof” Deadbolt Comes in either a single or double cylinder configuration Locks automatically when door closes CAUTION – Don’t get locked out Mounts to surface of the door – only minimal drilling for exterior keyway Hard to find – no longer widely used Billed as “drill and pick resistant”

13. “Jimmy Proof” Deadbolt a.k.a. Drop bolt Lock

14. Rim Lock NOT a security lock Generally uses a universal type skeleton key Install this lock, and the dead bolt lock, with bolts all the way through the door Usually found in older homes or used more today for decoration or authentication look

15. Rim Lock Place mounting bolts entirely through the door Universal skeleton keys

16. Mortise Lock Comes in either a single or double cylinder configuration Installation requires extensive expertise Generally found in more upscale and/or older homes Generally considered “high security” even though a significant size hole is usually required in the door

17. Mortise Lock

18. Mortise Lock

19. Chain Lock Pretty much worthless for security Easily defeated A door peeper is a better investment When in doubt, simply do NOT open the door

20. Keyless Locks Excellent High Security Lock Comes in a variety of styles No lost keys and no need to “re-key” simply change the code Pick- proof and hack-saw proof Technically includes all locks not requiring a key Biometric, fingerprint, retina scan, etc

21. Keyless Lock

22. Keyless Lock

23. Keyless Lock

24. Keyless Fingerprint Scan Lock

25. Anti-saw bolts A free spinning pin in the middle of a deadbolt throw Pin rolls when a saw tries to cut it. Not fool-proof but slows them down (DELAY)

26. Hardened Steel and/or Beveled Casings Casing – The outside housing of a lock Hardened steel resists impact Beveled casing makes it difficult to grip with a wrench

27. Anti-Drill Feature Hardened steel chips, installed by the manufacturer, within the lock Chips destroy drill bit when contacted Feature in more expensive, usually commercial, locks

28. Padlocks Must have a hardened steel body At least a 3/8 inch shackle High Security Padlock Must lock heel and toe Best have a key retention feature

29. Hockey Puck Lock Shackle hidden High Security Padlocks

30. Strike Plates The strike plate’s attachment to the door frame is generally the weakest part of the door Most strike plates are small and only have two holes, which are aligned with each other High Security plates are made that are heavier gauge metal, are much larger and contain up to six, staggered screw holes Usually comes with 3 in. hardened steel screws

31. Strike Plates Common Strike Plate Note two holes for screws, both in alignment

32. Strike Plates Deadbolt Strike More holes in multiple alignment

33. Strike Plates High Security Strike Plate More holes in multiple alignment

34. Strike Plates Note the difference

35. Burglar Bars A bar that fits under the door knob and extends to the floor Most are adjustable Advantage is – they are portable Some have “alarms” that sound when attempts are made to open the door More of a delay device than a high security item

36. Burglar Bar Enunciator included on some models

37. Building Access Is entry limited to certain doors? Can secured doors be easily defeated? What precautions are in place to prevent defeat? Who unlocks / locks building?

38. Key Control is… Simply controlling who has copies of keys to your home or office Who may have keys? Builder Remodeler Car Mechanic In-home help Ex- (employee, spouse, etc.) Kids Parking valet Current employee

39. Key Control How many keys are out there? How do you know, for sure? When was the last time building was re-keyed? Who has keys? What do they open? Are there any reports of lost keys? If ‘yes’, what action was taken?

40. Key Control Guidelines Locking devices are useless unless proper key control is maintained Maintain Records: Written record for all keys and locks, including padlocks that shows location, keyholders, date issued and the locks / doors each key operates Storing duplicate or spare keys: Tag each key and store in a secure key cabinet

41. Key Control Guidelines – cont. Master Keys: When possible, retain in control of one person. Do not make and store duplicates Re-keying: Consider re-keying or changing combination when keys are lost, misplaced, a key employee leaves, or for additional security

42. Key Control Guidelines – cont. Hiding Keys: Never hide keys under doormats or under flower pots, etc. Burglars know where to look or they can watch you! Leave a key with a trusted neighbor or relative Purchase a lockbox and secure the key in it. Install a lock that does not need keys

43. Locks… and what else? Photo ID cards - Staff Photo ID cards - Students Photo ID cards - Visitors Proximity Card Access

44. ANY QUESTIONS?