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Auburn-Opelika Men’s Camellia Club

Auburn-Opelika Men’s Camellia Club. PRESENTS. Alabama’s State Flower. The Camellia. Origin of Camellias. Camellias are native to China and Japan in regions with a climate similar to Central and South Alabama.

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Auburn-Opelika Men’s Camellia Club

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  1. Auburn-Opelika Men’s Camellia Club PRESENTS . . .

  2. Alabama’s State Flower The Camellia

  3. Origin of Camellias

  4. Camellias are native to China and Japan in regions with a climate similar to Central and South Alabama. There are hundreds of species of the genus Camellia but the species that are most popular in Alabama are: • Camellia sasanqua. . . . Fall blooming with relatively small, showy flowers. • Camellia japonica. . . Blooms from late fall through early spring with large, impressive blooms that are popular in camellia shows • Hybrids. . . Very impressive blooms from fall through spring but many are suitable mainly for greenhouse culture.

  5. Types of Blooms

  6. ‘Yuletide’ (C. sasanqua) Single

  7. Semi-double

  8. ‘Starabovestar’ Semi-double

  9. Formal Double

  10. Rose Double

  11. ‘Elegans supreme’ Anemone

  12. Peony

  13. Propagating camellias

  14. Planting seed

  15. Planting seed Some camellia species and varieties are prolific seed producers. Seed are about the size of an acorn. They mature in the fall and may be immediately planted. New plants are ready for transplanting by spring if the seed are kept in a warm, protected place.

  16. Planting seed • Advantages • Easy to produce lots of new plants • May develop a new and superior variety or cultivar • Disadvantages • Seedlings are not like parent plants. • May take several years for seedlings to bloom.

  17. Air Layering

  18. Air Layering This is the quickest way to create a new plant identical to the parent plant. Some varieties air-layer better than others.

  19. Air Layering A limb is rooted in the spring and summer while still attached to the parent plant. After several months, the limb with new roots inside the air-layer is cut from the parent plant and potted.

  20. Air Layering The best time to air layer is in the spring and early summer. Select a limb and remove bark where roots will eventually grow.

  21. Air Layering A rooting hormone will speed up root development Wrap the wound in very moist sphagnum or moist potting soil.

  22. Air Layering Wrap the rooting media around the limb and cover with a sheet of plastic or plastic wrap. Secure the plastic wrap around the limb with a twist tie or tape.

  23. Air Layering Secure both ends to hold moisture. Wrap the entire air layer with aluminum foil to keep light out of the air layer.

  24. Air Layering The air layer should stay in place through the summer or until the limb has produced roots. The limb can be cut from the parent plant and potted. You will probably be rewarded with blooms the following spring.

  25. Grafting

  26. Grafting Cleft grafting is the best way to collect a large number of named varieties for your garden. Grafted camellias may produce blooms within two years of grafting.

  27. Grafting Scions of a named variety or desired selection are collected from a friend or nursery in January or February. These are immediately grafted onto an existing camellia which has been cut off near the ground.

  28. Grafting The graft is protected for a few months until the graft heals and the new plant starts to grow.

  29. Grafting Camellias may be grafted onto a potted plant or a plant in the landscape. The rootstock must be at least as big as a pencil for successful grafting. It is cut off about 1-inch above the soil surface.

  30. Grafting Place clean, moist sand around the severed root stock. The sand will help keep the graft clean and anchor the protective cover that will be added later.

  31. Grafting Split the rootstock with a sharp knife, tapping gently with a hammer. The split will hold the scion (twig of the desired variety) when it is inserted. 1/4 to 1/2 inch rootstock

  32. Grafting Select healthy tip cuttings for your scions from the plant or variety you desire to propagate. Scions should be about 2 to 3 inches long. Remove all but two leaves. These may be cut in half to reduce transpiration loss.

  33. Grafting Using a very sharp knife, trim the lower end of the scion into a vee shape. Close up view of the tip of a prepared scion. ~1/2 inch

  34. Using a screwdriver as a wedge, gently open the split rootstock and insert the trimmed scion. The cambium layers just beneath the bark MUST be lined up on the rootstock and scion. Grafting With large rootstock such as this, two scions may be inserted, one on each side. This gives a double chance that at least one will grow successfully.

  35. Grafting If the scion is not held tightly in the cleft (slit), a rubber band or grafting tape may be wrapped around the root stock. A plastic milk carton with the bottom removed can be placed over the new cleft graft. This will protect the graft and keep the humidity high until the scion begins to grow.

  36. Grafting The sand that you added earlier helps to hold the milk carton in place. Place the freshly grafted plant in a shady location or cover the milk carton with shade cloth, pine straw, leaves, or mulch to protect it from sunlight.

  37. Grafting The graft heals rapidly and, if protected, the new plants will grow quickly. The milk carton may be gradually removed during the early summer. Grafted plants grow rapidly because of the established root system from the root stock. Plants from successful grafts will reward you with blooms within two years.

  38. Rooting cuttings

  39. Rooting Cuttings Some camellias are easy to root from cuttings. Most C. sasanqua and some C. japonica root well. Rooted cuttings, especially from C. sasanqua, are popular as a source of root stock for grafting. This is a quick way to produce lots of plants that are identical to the parent.

  40. Rooting Cuttings

  41. Rooting Cuttings Select cuttings in the late spring when new growth has hardened. Tip cuttings and stem cuttings may be used. Remove all leaves but two from a 3- to 4-inch cutting. Gently scrape the lower stem to wound the cutting.

  42. Rooting Cuttings Dip the cutting into a rooting hormone to speed up root development. Using a pencil or stick, make a hole for the cutting into moist potting soil. Several cuttings may be placed in the same container.

  43. Rooting Cuttings Firm the potting soil around the new cuttings. Large leaves may be cut in half to reduce transpiration during rooting.

  44. Rooting Cuttings Water the container well. . . . . . and place it inside a white or clear plastic bag.

  45. Rooting Cuttings Secure the bag and place the cuttings in a cool, shady location for several months. Check for root development and water as needed. Once cuttings are rooted, they should be potted individually in fresh potting soil.

  46. Rooting Cuttings Place fertilizer tablets in container with rooted cutting or fertilize regularly during the growing season. Don’t forget to properly label your rooted cuttings, grafts, or air-layers according to variety.

  47. Named varieties that you grew yourself help beautify your landscape and make excellent gifts for friends and neighbors.

  48. “Gibbing” camellias for fall blooms

  49. “Gibbing” camellias for fall blooms Many C. japonica and hybrids bloom during the winter and early spring when blossoms can be damaged by cold weather or excessive rainfall. To promote earlier blooms in the fall and sometimes larger blooms, camellia growers will add a drop of the plant growth hormone, gibberellin or gibberellic acid, to the flower bud. This stimulates the bud to bloom earlier than normal.

  50. “Gibbing” camellias for fall blooms STEP 1. Identify the vegetative bud next to a flower bud on the tip of a branch.

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