Future developments in the Fibre/ Textile/ Apparel business and the role of Technology Transfer

1. Future developments in the Fibre/ Textile/ Apparel business and the role of Technology Transfer Mário de Araújo Senior Professor mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

2. INTRODUCTION mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

3. Textile and clothing pipeline mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

4. Technical textiles Clothing 23.5% 43.5% 33% Decorative & home textiles Source: Euratex on CIRFS data, 2003 EU: Division of production by the 3 sub-sectors (by volume of fibre) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

5. EU: Structure of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles & Clothing mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

6. ENGINEERING WITH FIBRES & STRUCTURES : A PRODUCT DESIGN APPROACH mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

7. Main objectives • Analysing the changes in demand and • supply of textile/ fibre based products. • Proposing an approach to meet demand. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

8. Point 1 • The concept of supply chain and global networking • in the textile/ fibre complex includes all activities: • Designing/ development of new products; • Production and sourcing activities; • Marketing activities; • that take place in a Globalised Economy mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

9. Point 2 The Global Market is a Buyers Market. In a Buyers Marketthere is excessive supply of goods (overcapacity). Because selling is the big problem, the power has shifted from the hands of the Industrialists to the hands of the Retailers. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

10. Point 3 The opportunities for graduates have shifted from Production to Product Design/ Development and Marketing. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

11. Point 4 Marketing is the integrating factor: The marketing concept stresses satisfying consumer needs. A marketing program considers the 4 P’S: - Product (design & development,….) - Place (logistics, distribution, selling,…) - Price (competition, costs, value, image,…) - Promotion (branding, communication,…..) unless all four are integrated there is little chance of commercial success. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

12. Point 5 Product Design & Development is within Marketing. R&D activities in a successful company are business led. Everyone must understand these underlying principles and work within their framework. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

13. Point 6 The EU is shifting from Resource Based to Knowledge Based & Sustainable Development mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

14. The main driver is INNOVATION SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY push (emerging) COMPANY develops new products (innovate or die!) MARKET pull (opportunities) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

15. Huge leaps a: incremental innovation b: radical innovation Small improvements “S” curve: The evolution of Product Performance with Time mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

16. Ex: Bullet-resistant vest Ballistic pack with a V50 = 500 m/s Carbon nanotubes fibres ? (200 g/m2) Needs a new paradigm Para-aramids HPPE (6000 g/m2) (5000 g/m2) “S” curve: The evolution of Product Performance with Time mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

17. GRADUATE HUMAN RESOURCES SUPPLY (from the universities) DEMAND (from the market economy) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

18. MAIN STRATEGIES IN THE TEXTILE & CLOTHING SECTOR (The demand side) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

19. STRATEGIES OF COMPANIES • QUICK RESPONSE – differentiated products,value added, flexible production and deliveries, fashion products, shelf replenishing … • GLOBAL SOURCING - design + marketing + production subcontracting, high labour content … • GLOBAL PRODUCTS – homogeneous products, standardized products, economies of scale, large quantities, hard automation … • MASS CUSTOMIZATION & PERSONALIZATION – personalized treatment of customers, high value added, very flexible production and deliveries, special products, market niches, luxury products ... mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

20. SPECIALTY PRODUCTS • TECHNICAL TEXTILES – fibre reinforced composites, industrial applications, protective clothing, special products, market niches … • MULTI-FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES – better functional performance, monitoring of functions, control of functions, special products, sports products, techno-fashion, market niches ... mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

21. For each of these strategies & product types I will now attempt to explore some of the key requirements/ competences for successful implementation: TECHNOLOGICAL MODELS and the areas where research is required for future developments in the various strategies & product types: KEY AREAS OF INNOVATION mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

22. QUICK RESPONSE Technological Model Design & planning: CAD systems; process simulation; supply chain simulation; MRP II; Materials: all types of textile fibers; Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; Production management: just-in-time; process control; process integration; Logistics & transportation: just-in-time; Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT: supply chain integration type B2B2C; Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

23. QUICK RESPONSE Key Areas for Innovation Design & planning: process simulation; supply chain simulation; Manufacturing technologies: flexible; product diversification; zero set up time; Production management: integration of all manufacturing phases (CIM), with sales pulling production from end to beginning; flow type processes; process control; zero work in process ; zero defects; zero stocks; Logistics & transportation: integration of all partners in the supply chain (CIB); quick two way communications; access on information on processes, orders, and sales for all partners; frequent deliveries/ flow type;RFID. Standardization: reduction of costs of implementation of ISO 9000 and ISO 14000; standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; CIT: integration of the supply chain type B2B2C; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

24. GLOBAL SOURCING Technological Model Design & planning : CAD systems; MRP I Materials (in some cases: CMT): all types of textile fibres; Logistics & transportation : quick and efficient; Standardization: standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; electronic documents; CIT : integration of partners type B2B; Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

25. GLOBAL SOURCING Key Areas for Innovation Standardization : standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; electronic documents; CIT : integration of partners type B2B; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

26. GLOBAL PRODUCTS Technological Model Design & planning : process simulation; Materials: all types of textile fibres; Manufacturing technologies : rigid; computer aided; Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration; Logistics & transportation : just-in-time; Standardization : management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; standardization of products. CIT : integration of partners type B2B2C; Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

27. GLOBAL PRODUCTS Key Areas for Innovation Manufacturing technologies : rigid automation; computer aided; Production management: process control; zero work in process; zero defects; zero stocks; Logistics & transportation : integration of all partners in the supply chain (CIB); quick two way communications; access to information on processes, orders and sales for all partners; frequent deliveries/ flow type;RFID. Standardization: reduction of costs of implementation of ISO 9000 and ISO 14000; standardization of terminology, procedures and documentation for the whole chain; standardization of products. CIT: integration of the supply chain type B2B2C; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

28. MASS CUSTOMISATION & PERSONALISATION Technological Model Design & planning : CAD systems with product simulation; 3D scanner to take measurements; process simulation; supply chain simulation; MRP II; Materials: all types of textile fibres; Manufacturing technologies : very flexible; computer aided; reduction of the number of manufacturing steps; apparel manufacture at fabric formation stage; 3D knitting, weaving and non woven processing; jacquard systems; digital printing; garment dyeing and finishing; small lot production of fibres and yarns; fancy yarns; Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration; postponement of some manufacturing steps; Logistics & transportation : just-in-time; personalisation;RFID. Standardization : management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT : integration of the supply chain type B2B2C; Human resources: Textile Eng.; Industrial Eng.; MIS; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

29. MASS CUSTOMISATION & PERSONALISATION Key Areas for Innovation Design & planning : CAD systems with product simulation; process simulation; supply chain simulation; Manufacturing technologies : very flexible; computer aided; reduction of the number of manufacturing steps; apparel manufacture at fabric formation stage; 3D weaving and non woven forming; jacquard systems; garment finishing; small lot production of fibres and yarns; Production management : just-in-time; process control; process integration (CIM); postponement of some manufacturing steps; Logistics & transportation : just-in-time; personalisation; RFID. Standardization : reduction of costs of implementing ISO 9000 e ISO 14000; CIT : integration of the supply chain type B2B2C; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

30. TECHNICAL TEXTILES • Technological Model • Design & planning: CAD systems; simulation of properties of • materials, structures and products; process simulation; MRP II; • Materials: essencially high performance fibres; development of • special structures; • Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special; • Production management: just-in-time; process control; process • integration; • Logistics and transportation: just-in-time; • Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & • safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of • technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; • labeling; electronic documents; • CIT: integration of the various supply chains type B2B2C; • Human resources: Textile Eng.; Polymer Eng.; Materials Eng.; • other branches of engineering, science, medicine, etc. , according to • applications; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

31. TECHNICAL TEXTILES • Key areas for innovation • Design: simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; • Materials: high performance fibres (ex.nano-fibres); development of special structures; development of special finishings (ex. nano-particles); • Production technologies: production of special structures; • Standardization: special testing methods for the new materials; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

32. MULTIFUNCTIONAL TEXTILES • Technological Model Design & planning: CAD systems; simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; simulation of processes; MRP II; Materials: essencially fibres and finishings with special properties: electric conductivity; active materials; micro capsules; nano-fibres; nano-particles; special structures; Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special; Production management: just-in-time; process control; integration of processes; Logistics & transportation: just-in-time; Standardization: management of quality/ environment/ health & safety/ social accountability/ information security; standardization of technologies, procedures & documentation for the whole supply chain; labeling; electronic documents; CIT: integration of the various supply chains type B2B2C; Human resources: Textile Eng.; Polymer Eng.; Materials Eng.; other branches of engineering, science, medicine, etc. , according to applications; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

33. MULTIFUNCTIONAL TEXTILES • Key Areas for Innovation • Design: simulation of properties of materials, structures and products; • Materials: essencially fibres and finishings with special properties: • electric conductivity; active materials; micro capsules; nano-fibres; • nano-particles; special structures; • Manufacturing technologies: flexible; computer aided; special; • Standardization: special testing methods for the new materials, • structures and products; mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

34. PROPOSED APPROACH (The supply side) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

35. Approach ENGINEERING WITH FIBRES & STRUCTURES: A PRODUCT DESIGN APPROACH mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

36. The methodology proposed encourages a'product design' orientation and team work mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

37. In traditional textile company focus is in the 'means' rather than the 'ends'. Different technologies are not properly integrated and there is poor communication and lack of team work across different processing technologies. In other words the organization is 'technology oriented'. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

38. In the proposed approach the focus is in the 'ends' and these justify the 'means'. In other words the organization is 'product oriented'. Different technologies are properly integrated and there is good communication and team work across different processing technologies. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

39. Products are related to consumers and markets and so to different marketing strategies. They are seen in a business context. They must sell and generate profits. Products are used to satisfy customer needs. They are integrated in the marketing mix with other elements such as price, promotion and distribution. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

40. “The bottom line is Engineering with Fibres & Structures” and wherever fibres are the appropriate material, i.e. the material that creates the competitive advantage, we are there. The applications are wide and include fashion apparel, building construction, automotive, health and wellbeing, personal protection and so on. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

41. The development of new products follows product design methodologies and could be structured as follows: 1. Define a customer need/ requirement? 2. How can this need be met ? Exploratory generation and selection of ideas. 3. Develop a specification. 4. Develop and test a concept. 5. Perform a business analyses. 6. Develop the product: Which kind of product (garment, towel, helmet, hose,…etc.)? DECOMPOSE: Which fabric structure(s) and finishing(s)? Which yarn structure(s) and finishing(s)? Which fibre(s) and finishing(s)? Develop the detailed design; Develop a prototype; Test the prototype; Perform market research and test the market; Adjust the design if necessary. 7. Develop a marketing strategy. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

42. FASHION PRODUCT DESIGN Fundamental areas to address: Visual communication (colour, pattern, style, shape, etc.) Tactile communication (handle +) Functionalities (properties of finished fibres & structures (2D/ 3D) leading to performance and comfort: strength, stiffness, elastic recovery, toughness, permeability, conductivity, stability, etc.) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

43. Related to handle, comfort, etc Related to strength, rigidity, etc Typical load-extension characteristic curve for a weft knitted fabric mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

44. Design & Simulation Flexible Manufacture Testing Rapid.Prototyping@det.uminho.pt Engineering with fibres & structures: from giga-stresses to nano-strains mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

45. Concluding remarks The current rate of technological change requires a flexible, quick response and often personalised approach to product development and manufacture. A product design approach to engineering with fibres and structures seems to be fundamental to the success of the integrated supply chain. This requires a change in mentality of all concerned aiming at working in multidisciplinary teams and meeting market requirements with high performance fibre based products. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

46. Approaches to Industrial Liaison Offices Mário de Araújo Senior Professor mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

47. INTRODUCTION Knowledge is an extremely valuable asset. This is why the EU is shifting from Resource Based to Knowledge Based & Sustainable Development. Fundamental knowledge is normally created in the universities. The emerging knowledge from exploratory research results must then be exploited for the benefit of society. Business firms look at this emerging knowledge to improved the performance of existing products & services or to create the next generation of new products & services. The role of an industrial liaison office is to create a bridge between universities and industry, so that the transfer of knowledge is more effective and targeted to address specific needs. mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

48. The main driver is INNOVATION SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY push (emerging) COMPANY develops new products (innovate or die!) MARKET pull (opportunities) mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

49. TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt

50. There are many approaches to Technology Transfer. However, the models I have been involved with are of 3 types: 1 – 2C2T: Center for Textile Science & Technology at the University of Minho; 2 – TecMinho: Association of University/ Enterprise for Development; 3 – CITEVE: Technological Center of the Portuguese Textile & Clothing Industries mario.araujo@det.uminho.pt