Wool and Mohair

1. Wool and Mohair Survey of the Animal Industry Iowa Western Community College

2. Animal Fibers • Provide protection to the animal • Most fibers have little commercial value, wool and mohair are the exception • Hides from young lambs can be processed into lambskin coats • Hides with longer wool can be processed into ornamental rugs

3. Growth of Hair, Wool, and Mohair • Fiber grows from the follicle • Cuticle holds the fiber together (outer layer of fiber) • Felting is the intermingling of wool, allows fibers to be woven into woolens • All hair and wool fibers are similar in structure

4. Figure 6.1 Schematic drawing of a wool follicle. Source: R. W. Henderson.

5. Figure 6.2 Cross section of a medulated wool fiber. Adapted from The Sheep Production Handbook.

6. Growth of Hair, Wool, and Mohair • Wool fibers have waves (kinks) called crimp • Kemp fibers reduce value of the fleece because they lack crimp • Mohair fibers have no crimp

7. Figure 6.3 Several expressions of crimp in coarser and finer wool. Courtesy of USDA.

8. Wool Value • The amount of wool produced is a result of nutrition and breeding. • Production reduced when less than 8% protein • Through breeding, wool can be increased by selecting breeding stock based on fleece weight, staple length, fineness • Producers should try to maximize all profits (meat and fiber production)

9. Figure 6.4 Preparation steps for wool quality improvement. Source: American Wool Council, division of the American Sheep Industry Association.

10. Steps to Increasing Value • Separate black faced sheep from other fleece • All tags, sweepings, and other clippings should be packed separately • Reduce twine fed to sheep • Avoid environmental stress • Avoid course fibers (kemp) • Sheer when dry • Inferior portions of the fleece should be sorted out. • Sack by wool grades • Reduce double clips • Properly fold and tie the fleece with twine. • Use lanolin based paint

11. Figure 6.6 Skirting the fleece. Source: American Wool Council, division of the American Sheep Industry Association.

12. Undesirable Fleeces • Burry – wool that contains vegetable matter (grass seeds, prickly seeds) • Chaffy – wool that contains vegetable matter ( hay, straw) • Cotted – matted or entangled wool fibers • Dead – wool from non-slaughtered dead animals • Murrain – wool obtained from decomposed sheep

13. Figure 6.7 Several types of undesirable fleeces are identified. Each of these should be sorted and packed separately from the more desirable fleeces. Courtesy of USDA.

14. Classes and Grades of Wool • Class is determined by staple length and the fineness determines the grade • The American grade, spinning count system, micron diameter method (most accurate) • Classes of wool are: staple; French combing; and clothing • Fineness of wool depends on body region from which it was obtained

15. Figure 6.8 Wool samples of the major grades of wool based on spinning count and the blood system.

16. Figure 6.9 Cross section of magnified wool fibers demonstrating the wool grades based on fiber diameter measured in microns. Courtesy of USDA.

17. Production of Wool and Mohair • Greasy wool – wool or fleece shorn each year from the sheep • Scoured wool – washing and rinsing of the wool to remove grease, dirt, impurities. • Australia, China, New Zealand lead the world in greasy wool production. • Wool growth depends on breed, Mohair grows 12 inches per year.

18. Figure 6.10 Sheep being shorn for their yearly production of wool.

19. Wool Marketing • Direct sale to warehouses through partnerships • Worldwide changes have allowed the selling of wool on objective measurements of quality. • Wool is typically purchased on a clean or scoured basis

20. Uses of Wool and Mohair • Fibers are used in making cloth and carpets • Cloth allows moisture absorption while maintaining warmth and is resistant to fire. • However, wool tends to shrink and cause people to itch. • WURLAN treatments help to prevent absorbing water or blending with other fibers

21. Figure 6.16 Natural fiber moves through a process of production, marketing, and processing to generate desirable wool and cashmere products for consumers. (A) Preparing wool for the skirting table. (B and C) Wool is dyed, carded, and spun before being woven into a desired fabric. (D) High-quality woolen garments are then made available to the public. Courtesy of Pendleton Woolen Mills, Portland, OR (B-D).

22. Figure 6.16 (continued) Natural fiber moves through a process of production, marketing, and processing to generate desirable wool and cashmere products for consumers. (A) Preparing wool for the skirting table. (B and C) Wool is dyed, carded, and spun before being woven into a desired fabric. (D) High-quality woolen garments are then made available to the public. Courtesy of Pendleton Woolen Mills, Portland, OR (B-D).