Fabrics and Fibers

1. Fabrics and Fibers HNC 3OI

2. Stop and Think! • What does a pair of socks have in common with a felt tip pen? • What does an artificial heart have in common with a t-shirt?

3. Answer • Many socks are made of nylon • A felt tip pen has a nylon point • The artificial heart has a lining made from finely woven polyester • The t-shirt is a cotton polyester knit • The point: Fibers and fabrics are EVERYWHERE, even when they are not obvious!

4. Fibers and Fabrics • Fibers and fabrics are everywhere, sometimes they are not obvious • Everyone expects t-shirts to be made of fabric but often it is fibers working together to create the look • Lesson Objectives: • Knowledge of different fabrics and fibers • Good consumer decisions • Characteristics of fabrics • Fabric performance and uses

5. Textile Uses • Many fabrics and fibers are used for home furnishings: • What are some examples of places where fabrics are used in your home? • Curtains • Drapes • Upholstery • Slip covers • Bedding • Rugs • Towels • Carpets • Lamp shades • Accessories: place mats, table cloths etc.

6. Other Textiles • Home furnishings do not account for even half of the textiles used each year in North America • Other uses for textiles include: • Recreation • Industrial • Transportation • Carbon fiber reinforced plastics increase the strength but not the weight of tennis rackets, fishing rods, golf clubs, skis, canoes etc. • Buildings are designed and built using huge “skins” made of fabrics; this type of structure is popular for restaurants, stadiums, theatres, parking garages etc. • Disposable surgical products, such as gowns, masks, bandages, etc. are made from non woven fabrics.

7. Things to Consider When Purchasing Fabrics and Fibers • First: Look in your closet what fabrics or fibers are you drawn to? Which items feel good? How do they look on your shape (think if they are structured or will they cling) • When you are aware of the similarities and differences between fiber and fabric combinations you will better be able to evaluate which are best for you and their uses. • Check tags/labels: sometimes the care labels will instruct you on your purchase, will it fade? Will it shrink? Will it stretch?

8. Fabric Characteristics and Performance • Fabric characteristics and performance effect the way the fabric reacts when it is used • Our expectations of fabrics very depending on a variety of characteristics: for example we do not expect silk, or satin used in prom dresses to be durable and soil resistant like the corduroy used to upholster a couch • These Three Factors Determine How a Fabric Performs: • How the fibers are used • How the fibers are formed into fabrics • How the finishes are applied to the fabric Four GENERAL Fabric Characteristics: are traits that distinguish one fabric from another and can include: type of construction, texture, hand and weight

9. Characteristic Overview: • 1. Fabric Construction: you can recognize fabric construction by the way it looks, for example, terry cloth is defined by the loops (like a bath towel), velvet has a raised or pile look, corduroy has row of pile, satin is shiny due to the special weave etc. • 2. Texture: refers to how the surface of the fabric looks and feels; it can be smooth, rough, fuzzy, dull, shiny, nubby, or a combination. Texture often denotes a feeling or tone: such as casual or dressy. Texture tends to denote the uses of various fabrics.

10. 3. Hand: how fabric handles is known as the hand; fabric can be soft, firm, crisp, stiff, drapeable etc. You can determine the hand of the fabric by handling it. Some examples of a soft drape include: crepe or jersey, they are appropriate for garments with a full silhouette with gathers pleats or ruffles. Denim and corduroy have a stiffer or firmer hand and they are used for more tailored or structured looks. • 4. Weight: Fabrics can range in weight from very light to very heavy. Weight is determined by the fibers used and the type of construction. An example of light weight fabrics includes chiffon and batiste, while canvas and coating fabrics such as velvets are much heavier.

11. Fabric Performance • 1. Durability • 2. Comfort • 3. Ease of Care

12. Durability • Refers to all those characteristics that affect how long you will be able to wear or to use a particular garment or item. These include: Strength, Shape Retention, Resiliency, Abrasion, Resistance and Colour Fastness. • Strength: is the fabric going to be strong enough for the way you plan to use it? Different fibers have different tensile strengths, or ability to withstand tension and pulling. Strength is also related to the fabric construction. Tightly woven or knitted fabrics are usually stronger than loosely woven or knitted fabrics. • EX: Canvas is used as a chair seat or sporting bag whereas sheer open weave fabric is used for curtains.

13. Shape Retention: Will the fabric retain its shape after wearing or cleaning? Or will it stretch so that you end up with baggy knees, bum and elbows? Shape can also be lost when fabric is washed or machine dried. Some fibers shrink when exposed to water or heat. • Resiliency: Is the fabric resilient, or able to spring or bounce back into shape after crushing or wrinkling? Will the wrinkles hang out of the garment or must the fabric be pressed? EX: Fibers in a wool carpet may flatten under heavy furniture. But they will spring back into shape when steamed or vacuumed. • Abrasion: Will the fabric resist abrasion? Abrasion is a worn spot that can develop when the fabric rubs against something. This can occur on the inside of a collar where it rubs the back of your neck, or at your side where you carry your books or bag. Some fabrics can pill or form tiny balls of fiber on the fabric. • Colour Fastness: Will the colour fade when the fabric is washed? Will the colours bleed or run into other areas of the garment? Colour fastness means that the colour in the fabric will not change. It will not fade from washing, from chlorine in a pool, or from exposure to the sunlight. However some fabrics are designed to fade or bleed. Some denim blue jeans are meant to lighten when washed. Madras, a woven plaid fabric, is meant to bleed so that the plaid becomes softer and less distinct.

14. Comfort • Comfort is another factor to consider when selecting fabric; fabrics can be the right weight and texture, durable an easy to care for but uncomfortable to wear. • A fabrics absorbency, breathability, wicking ability, and stretch ability all affect how comfortable the fabric is on your body. • Absorbency: this term refers to how well the fabric takes in moisture. Some fibers such as cotton or wool, are very absorbent. Other fibers such as polyester and nylon are not. • Wicking: this term refers to the fabrics ability to draw moisture away from the body, so the moisture can evaporate. The wicking ability of some fibers makes up for the fact that they are not absorbent. Olefin is a fabric that has wicking properties. • Breathability: refers to the ability for air or moisture to pass through fabric. Some fabrics have special finishes that prevent moisture from penetrating the fabric and from evaporating. • Stretchability: this term describes the fabrics ability to give and stretch with the body. Stretchability you need in your garments depends on activities and is usually increased in active wear or swimwear.

15. Ease of Care • The type of care a fabric requires determines how easy it will be to care for. • Washing, drying, cleaning, ironing, brushing, and folding are all methods of fabric care. • Some fabrics require more routine care than others. • Washability, soil and stain resistance, wrinkle resistance are some factors that influence fabric care. • Washability: Can it be washed or must it be dry cleaned? Does it have to he hand or machine washed? Will the fabric shrink and will if effect the fit of your garment? • Stain and Spot Resistance: Is the fabric resistant to stains? Some fibers absorb stains but special finishes can help to repel stains or to release it during cleaning. • Wrinkle Resistance: Do you have to iron the fabric after each wash? Will wrinkles hang out or require pressing? Polyester is very wrinkle resistant whereas cotton and rayon wrinkle very easily.