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Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“

Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“. Lothar Lissner. Hamburg, June 14, 2002. Content. Chemical Scope Eco-toxicological Evidence Regulation, Market and Actors Substitutes Implication for enterprises.

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Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“

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  1. Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesWorkshop„Textiles in Chemicals“ Lothar Lissner Hamburg, June 14, 2002

  2. Content • Chemical Scope • Eco-toxicological Evidence • Regulation, Market and Actors • Substitutes • Implication for enterprises

  3. Combined results from two case studies 1. Success of Textile Labels2. Dry cleaning of textiles with PER

  4. Basic materials • Synthetic fibres (Polyester, Polyamid, Polyacrilonitrile • Wood pulp (Viscose, Cupro, Acetat) • Cotton and flax • Wool • Silk

  5. Main problematic substances Extractable heavy metals AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc Chemicals Free formaldehydePesticides (Phenols, PCP, TeCP, OPP)PVC- plasticisersPhthalates Organotin compoundsDyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)Chlorinated organic carriersBiocides Flame retardants

  6. WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE Production Chemicals from the production or manufacturing of basic materials (synthetic fibres, wood pulp, cotton, wool, silk) as pesticides, bleaching chemicals, catalysts as antimony Preparation Cleaning and washing (solvents)Spinning (oils)

  7. WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE Pre-Treatment Carbonising, washing, dyeing, printing, bleaching, mercerising etc. Finishing Treatments to achieve properties as Easy care, Water repellent, Softening, Anti Static Treatment, Flame retardant, Moth proofing,Anti bactericidal and anti fungicidal

  8. ECOTOXICOLOGICAL EVIDENCE In many cases:Certainty about the toxic properties as for dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, organo tin Uncertainty or ambiguity about the NO-effect levels On the following pages:Comparison of four label criteria

  9. Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin” Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin” EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan” Product group B “Clothes” Ph-Value 4,0 - 7,5 4,0 - 9,0 ----- Acc. ISO 3071 Free formaldehyde 75 ppm 300 ppm 75/300 ppm 30 ppm Extractable heavy metals (in ppm) Antimony Arsenic Lead Cadmium Chromium Cr VI Cobalt Copper Nickel Mercury Tin Zinc (in ppm) 10,0 1,0 1,0 0,1 2,0 under detection level 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 ---- ---- (in ppm) 10,0 1,0 1,0 0,1 2,0 under detection level 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 ---- ---- Separated limit values for heavy metals in dyes and pigments, but not in the final product (in mg/kg) ---- 0,2 0,8 0,1 2,0 ---- 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 4,0 60,0

  10. Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin” Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin” EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan” Product group B “Clothes” Organotin compounds (since 2000) TBT 1 ppm TBT 1 ppm ---- Not acceptable Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic) Not used Detailed List Detailed list accor­ding to the German ban of azo-dyes list Chlorinated organic carrier 1,0 ppm 1,0 ppm Not acceptable 1% of the weight (halogenated subst.) Biocides finish Not acceptable Not acceptable ------ Not acceptable Flame retardant finish None None No substance labelled with R45, R46, R50, R52, R53, R60 or R 61 Bromo- and chloro- organic flame retardants not acceptable

  11. REGULATION Important regulative areas Regulation of raw material production:Pesticides in wool andcotton production – very divergent depending on the regulations in the different 1.,2.,3.World nations Regulation of processing chemicals in the textile manufacturing from different areas, most important:Waste water, dyeing process (see also for a complete overview the BREF-Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the Textiles Industry, Nov 01) Regulation of the final productMainly via Labels (Oeko-Tex, European Eco Label, Nordic Swan) Import controls – low enforcement

  12. MARKET Globalised production Very dispersed supply chain

  13. ACTORS Divergent views on substitution encountered: Consumers Retail Textile producers in industrialised and 2. and 3. World countries The suppliers of textile chemicals Suppliers of synthetic fibres / Suppliers of natural fibres Governments and WTO Label issuers

  14. SUBSTITUTES Main strategiesEmission reduction by fixing of chemicals to reduce the extractability res emission Substitution or very reduced use of the most hazardous products as carcinogenic dyes or some pesticides Strict emission control as in the waste water area Strict emission control of PER in dry cleaning

  15. IMPLICATIONS FOR ENTERPRISES Retail services:Trust on existing labels or development of own criteria Textile producers: Trust on the suppliers res. labels or control instruments used by suppliers The suppliers of textile chemicals Development of innovative products

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