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Lecture 13

Lecture 13. Single Knit Machines (plain). Main Products . Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece Two thread fleece Feed stripes . Single Knit Machine Working . Single bed of needle Only cylinders Needles and sinkers High speed Wider width Most common

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Lecture 13

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  1. Lecture 13 • Single Knit Machines (plain)

  2. Main Products • Single Jersey • Pique • Locast • Honey comb • Pique fleece • Two thread fleece • Feed stripes

  3. Single Knit Machine Working • Single bed of needle • Only cylinders • Needles and sinkers • High speed • Wider width • Most common • Easy to handle

  4. Double Knit Machines • Cylinder and Dial • Two bed of needles • No sinker • Double side knitting

  5. Sub types • Interlock • Rib • Double jersey (interchangeable)

  6. Interlock • Highly flexible fabric • Can adopt any body shape • Used for under garments • Soft hand feel

  7. Rib • More strength • For grip purposes • Used at neck, arm opening, waist band • Always heavier than main fabric

  8. Stripes • Feed stripes • Engineered stripes

  9. Terry • To have towel effect • Velour fabric

  10. Loop Knitting • Fleece • Two thread fleece • Three thread fleece

  11. Jacquard • Mostly double knit machines • Electronic • Mechanical

  12. Lecture 14 • Single Knitting Machines • Single jersey • Fleece • Terry • Stripes

  13. Jersey Knitting • Jersey Fabric • The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines. • Jersey Stitch • A basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.

  14. Lecture 15Fleece Fabric • A fabric made by sheep wool, soft warm • A fabric soft , warm bulky • Generally used to: • Protection from cold • Sweat absorption (sweat shirt) • Baby clothes

  15. Fleece --- • A fabric knitted with two types of yarn. Fine yarn is on front side and course yarn on back side. In most of cases fine yarn is 100% cotton while course yarn is P/C 50:50 • Normal combination and fiber ratio: • 30/16, 20/10, 26/12 etc • PC/C, C/PC

  16. Types of Fleece • Two thread fleece • Three Thread Fleece

  17. Two thread Fleece • Very rare • Was popular when three thread fleece were not common • Generally not liked due to impassion of course yarn on front side • Low quality product

  18. Made on single jersey machines • Maximum medium weight, since very course yarn difficult to use • Long loop is difficult

  19. Cam Arrangement • On Fleece fabric.doc three needle track machine:

  20. CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO THEAD FLEECE • Light to medium weight • Double impact on front side, particularly in case of different fibers • No good brushing possible due to short length of loop

  21. Three Thread Fleece • Made on fleece machines • High grammage is possible( 500 GSM) • High brushing due to long loop on back side • Maximum course yarn is possible ( up to 10 count) on back side • Very common in use • Fleece machine guage is 16 or 18

  22. Yarn • C/PC • PC/C 30/16, 22/12/ 20/10

  23. Fiber Percentage • Calculation Method • Example: • Front yarn 30s • 100% cotton • Back yarn 16 s 50:50 P/C • Consumption ratio • Front Two kgs • Back one kg

  24. Total consumption three kgs • Calculation: • front yarn 2 kgs 100 % cotton • Back yarn 1 kg ( ½ Kg polyester and ½ kg cotton • Total Cotton consumed 2 + 0.5 =2.5 Kgs • Total polyester consumed ½ kg • Ratio: cotton= 2.5/3*100= 83.33% • Polyester= 0.53*100=16.66% • Such ratio is normally called 80:20 Fleece

  25. Main characteristics of Three • Highly absorbent • High weight is possible • Can use entirely different yarn on both sides( even dyed yarn) • Pattern is possible ( diagonal stripes etc) • Very common in use

  26. Fleece problems and their remedies • Uneven loop – control yarn supply • Loop stretch– control cam tension • Needle line on front side • Wales thickness variation on front side due to fluff contamination between the needles, needs regular cleaning, more cleaning is required due to course yarn

  27. Poor brushing–due to high TPI yarn– use low TPI • Dyeing variation due to different percentage of yarn… calculate exact % by using Skelton test • Steak problem after dyeing due to heavy weight fabric--- use anti creasing agents in dyeing

  28. High shrinkage --- use compactor or tumble dryers

  29. Other types of fleece • Sherpa fleece --- brushed and washed to get balls • Polar fleece ---- loops on both sides also brushed on both side

  30. Double Face loop Knitting

  31. Loop knits • Terry fabric to knitted terry towel

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