Welcome to apparel guide This is a tech details for new comers ( junior merchandiser )

1. Welcome to apparel guideThis is a tech details for new comers ( junior merchandiser ) This Presentation is a basic information on Yarn gets converted to a garment. By prinuti.com

2. Index: Activities involved in making a garment Types of yarn Yarn Counts Grey yarn Dyed yarn Styles ( Different patterns ) Types of fabric Fabric structure – Technical details Fabric structure – Technical details Fabric knitting Greigh fabric inspection machine Mercerizing machine Dying machine Open width Slitter and tubular squeeze machine Stenter – Finishing machine Compacting machine Testing Laboratory Cutting department Production department Embroidery department Printing department Trimming and Checking department Ironing and packing department Product range Garment Treatments Garment quality – checking method Major Mistakes according to AQL Standard Minor mistake according to AQL Level Conclusion of a flow chart on apparel

3. Activities involved in making a garment: • Yarn ( Thread in form of cones ) • Knitting ( Fabrication – making fabric ) • Fabric Processing ( Dyeing – coloring the fabric ) • Compacting ( Winding the fabric in roll forms ) • Sampling ( To get approval from customer ) • Cutting (shaping the garment ) • Printing or embroidery of logo in panel form • Sewing ( stitching the garment as per customers requirement ) • Checking ( Trimming & mending with quality inspection) • Ironing & packing • Final inspection ( from quality control division ) • Goods ready to deliver.

4. Types of Yarn: Greigh yarn Lurex yarn Spandex yarn Dyed yarn • .

5. Yarn Counts: Lower yarn Counts will give thicker garment ( high GSM) When count number increases fabric weight decreases. Quality output will look better in higher counts. 20’s count jersey – 200 gsm 24’s count jersey – 180 gsm 30’s count jersey - 160 gsm 34’s count jersey – 140 gsm

6. Grey Yarn: Grey yarn Grey yarn is used for making any single color garment (Solid Garment)

7. Dyed Yarn: • Dyed yarn’s (color yarn) is used to make yarn dyed stripes. • Feeder Striper • Auto Striper • Engineered Stripes • Mini Jacquard • Jacquard • Wrapper Continued…..

8. Styles: Round Neck V Neck Polo Neck Raglan sleeve Full Zipper Half Zipper Hooded Jacket Cut & Sew Track Suite

9. Types of Fabric and it’s structure: Single knit: Knit fabric produced using a single set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin light weight fabric. Double knit: Knit fabric produced on two sets of opposed needles. It is thicker and heavier than a single knit fabric. Technical Face: The outside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine.This may or may not be the outside of a finished garment made from the fabric. Technical Back: The inside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the inside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

10. Fabric Structure • Knit Stitch:An interlocking series of loops used to construct fabric. See the diagram above of the basic weft knit fabric. • Tuck Stitch:A needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the fabric. • Welt, Miss, or Float Stitch:These terms describe the same formation. The stitch is created by not allowing the needle to raise high enough to receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float behind the face stitches. • Inlay Stitch:Combination of float and tuck stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and one tucks. Commonly used in Fleece and French Terry fabrics. Continued…..

11. Fabric Structure…. • Jersey Fabric :The basic single knit construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny “V” s on the face of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric. • Rib Fabric:This double knit fabric draws some wales to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body goods. • Interlock Fabric:Two yarn feeds are required to create one course. The knitting on front and back gives interlock a smooth surface on each side of the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out for poor boy looks. • Lacoste Fabric:The original stitch configuration used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern creates a tiny honeycomb look on the technical back of the fabric, which is used as the face for garments. • Pique Fabric:The combination of knit and tuck stitches gives a small diamond appearance to the face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric used in collar/placket shirts.

12. Fabric Knitting: • Full Jacquard • Mini Jacquard • Auto / Feeder Stripes • Plaited Fabric • Interlock • Textures • Jersey / Pique • Waffle / Ribs

13. Fabric inspection: Grey fabric Inspection machine. Fabric checked before dying Checked rolls ready for dying Dyed rolls ready for cutting

14. Fabric Mercerizing machine:

15. Soft flow dyeing machines:

16. Open width Slitter & Tubular Squeeze machines:

17. Stenter – Finishing machine:

18. Open width Compacting machine:

19. Testing Laboratory: • C/F to Washing • C/F to Perspiration • C/F to Water • Dimensional stability • Pilling • Spirality • Rubbing • Fiber testing

20. Cutting section: LAY CUTTING : Any solid ( Plain fabric ) fabric can be used in this method for higher output and quality with a band knife machine. Band knife cutting machine used for more accuracy mainly for yoke and small panels .

21. Production Line:

22. Embroidery: • Computerized embroidery machines ( 6 – 9 colors available ) • Average of 700–1200 pcs out put in 8 hours time depending on the no of stitches

23. Printing Section: Plastisol print Machine Digital Printing Machine Rotary print Machine

24. Checking the quality and trimming process: Trimming and Quality Checking Checking & Mending

25. Ironing and Packing Section: Ironing is usually made in steam Iron box with vacuum table for Best quality Price tag, poly bag cover and assorted packing & cartoon box packing is controlled by packing dept

26. Product Range: • Mercerized / Non-mercerized Garments • Garments in GIZA / PIMA / SUPIMA Cotton • Performance based Garments like Dri-Fit, Anti- Stain, Anti-Microbial, Odor Free, UV protection, etc. • Young Fashion garments like Cut & Sew, Garment Dyed, Carbonized, Printed, Embroidered • Organic Cotton Garments • Garments made out of fabrics with various compositions.

27. Garment Treatments: • Softener Wash • Enzyme Wash • Stone Wash • Acid Wash • Mineral Wash • Crinkle Wash • Garment Dyeing • And much more ( more than 50 types of washes ) • For more details on the subject check in our web page www.prinuti.com

28. Garment Quality – Checking method: AQL - Accepted Quality level for inspection on final garments ( 2.4 test method )No of pcs sample to check Allowed defects Major Minor 51- 90 12 1 1 91 – 150 20 1 2 151 – 280 32 2 3 281 – 500 50 3 5 501 - 1200 80 5 7 1201 – 3200 125 7 10 3201 – 10000 200 10 14 10001 – 35000 315 14 21 35001 – 150000 500 21 21 150001 – 500000 800 21 21 Continued…..

29. Major defects in garments : • Embroidery Misplacement • Dirt / Stain • Open seam • needle mark • Unbalanced Stitches • Uneven width • Puckering • Hole • Wrong size parts • Unbalanced sleeve edge • Unbalanced Placket • Incorrect neck shape • Missing stitches • Unbalanced slit • Uneven button space • Missing Label • Missing Tag • Wrong placement of label • Wrong Label • Incorrect tag • Incorrect Packing • Wrong Assortment • Missing Buttons • Shade variation within a piece • Yarn defect • Knitting defect • Defective Accessories • Print Over lapping • Print misplacement • Defective Embroidery Continued…..

30. Minor defects in garment : • Yarn defect • knitting defect • Embroidery misplacement • Oil Stain • Print stain • Dirt stain • Raw edges • Broken stitch • Skip stitch • In secured buttons • Poor ironing • Improper locking ( stitches ) • Non centered label • Double stitch • Untrimmed Thread • Untrimmed fabric

31. Future presentation files • Types of yarn • Types of Knitting • Types of fabric • Classification of garments • Performance garments • AQL quality level and inspection method • Merchandising Role • Types of Printing • Types of knitting ( and lot more )