240 likes | 388 Vues
Non-Conventional Preservation. Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation. “Classic” Preservatives. Diazolidinyl Urea Quaternium-15 Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate Kathon Parabens DMDM Hydantoin Chloroxylenol. Common “Non-Conventional” Preservatives.
E N D
Non-Conventional Preservation Tim Kapsner Senior Research Scientist Aveda Corporation
“Classic” Preservatives • Diazolidinyl Urea • Quaternium-15 • Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate • Kathon • Parabens • DMDM Hydantoin • Chloroxylenol
Common “Non-Conventional” Preservatives • Organic (Benzoic, Sorbic) Acids and salts • Benzyl Alcohol • Phenoxyethanol
Grapefruit Seed Extract Aka carrier for Triclosan, Benzethonium Chloride, Benzalkonium Chloride
Lonicera (Honeysuckle) Extract Aka carrier for Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
Hinokitiol • Extracted from Japanese pine tree • $1500/kg synthetic, $2500/kg natural • Effective at 0.01 to 0.05% • Broad spectrum • Difficult to dissolve • Odor
And Many Others • NET-DTB (Barnet) • Halogenine (Natural Cl, Br) • GP-150 (Global Preservatives, acid blend) • Polylysine (Ajinomoto) • Ethanol
Essential Oils • Lemongrass Oil • Lemon Tea Tree Oil • Tea Tree Oil • Lippia Sidoides • Origanum Oil
Vendor Blends • Natrulon PCG (Potassium sorbate, cinnamomum cassia leaf oil, alcohol) • Lema Oil (Tea tree derivative) • Biopein (extract of origanum, thyme, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal), Neopein, Suprapein
Phospholipids • Phospholipid P-TC (Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate) • Phospholipid C-DM (Capryl . . .) – more functional, more irritating • Phospholipid P-TM (Myristyl . . .) -- new
Glyceryl Esters • Glyceryl Laurate (Lauricidin, Dr. Kabarra) • Glyceryl Caprate (Lexgard GMC, Inolex) • Glyceryl Caprylate (Capmul 708G, Abitec)
Emollients/Solvents • PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate (CAE) • Ethylhexylglycerin (Sensiva SC-50) • Capryloyl Glycine (Lipacide C8G) • Capryl Glycol (Lexgard O) • Glycine • Olive Leaf Extract (Eurol BT)
Organic Acids • Benzoic (pK 4.19) • Sorbic • Salicylic (pK 2.97) (OTC active, acne) • Usnic • Tartaric (pK 4.34) • Malic (pK 3.4, 5.11)
Organic Acids • pH restrictions • pH drift • Irritation
Phenoxyethanol vs. Phenethyl Alcohol Rose Ether $3.5/kg Synthetic $5/kg Natural $2000/kg
Plant Extracts Microplate MIC (Minimum Inhibitory Concentration)
Microplate MIC Method 100 % Growth Germall Lippia Blank E.coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%)
Microplate MIC Method Blank = No Growth (Blue) 100% Growth (Red) Blank Germall Lippia E.Coli (Germall (0.04%) /Lippia (0.33%) Colorimetric Dye Resazurin
Plant Extract MIC • Germall II - 0.039% • Plant Extract Fraction 1 – 0.060% • Plant Extract Fraction 2 – 0.084% • Plant Extract Fraction 3 – 0.11% • Plant Extract Fraction 4 – 0.068%