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Wave Breaking 10pt

Wave breaking (10pt). When T=10s in deepwater, what is the maximum possible wave height H before breaking?22m. Wave-current interaction(10pt). When a progressive wave meets with a opposing current, its amplitude (increases or decreases) and its wave length (increases or decreases). . Wave-theory S

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Wave Breaking 10pt

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    1. Wave Breaking (10pt) Which type of breaker for the steepest bottom slope? Spilling breaker Plunging breaker X Surging breaker

    2. Wave breaking (10pt) When T=10s in deepwater, what is the maximum possible wave height H before breaking? 22m

    3. Wave-current interaction(10pt) When a progressive wave meets with a opposing current, its amplitude (increases or decreases) and its wave length (increases or decreases).

    4. Wave-theory Selection Diagram (10pt) Water depth=1m, wave period=7s, wave height=0.3 m Find the best wave theory Stream-function

    5. Wave breaking (20pt) Deepwater T=8s, H=2m (Normal Incidence); beach slope=1/20 Find breaker height, breaker depth, and breaker type using the chart 2.74m, 2.72m, plunging

    6. Empirical Storm-surge Forecasting (20pt) Find the maximum sea-rise when Lowest atm pressure=0.85 bar Spatial mean atm pressure=1 bar Bay length=3km Bay mean depth=5m Max wind velocity=40m/s Normal wind direction 194cm

    7. Discrete Random Variable (20pt) Two successive coin flips and a throw of a dice Random variable s= #of heads + dice face value Find the mean value = 4.5

    8. Continuous Random Variable (20pt) PDF f(x)=-x^2 + k (0<x<1) Find k = 4/3 Find the mean value of x =5/12

    9. Gaussian Process x (20pt) When mean=2, standard deviation=2 Find Prob(x>3) using G-Table =.308

    10. Shoaling-Refraction (30pt) Wave period=9s Wave heading in deep water=45 deg. Wave height in deep water=2m. New wave heading at certain location =30 deg. What is the celerity and refraction coefficient there? = 9.9m/s, 0.9

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