2.01 Understanding The Technical Design Process

1. 2.01 Understanding The Technical Design Process A. Fabric Selection 1. Fabric Construction

2. Turning Yarn into Fabric Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom. • Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric. (“p” = up and down) • Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric. (“weft” sounds like left & right)

3. Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.) • Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns in a woven fabric. • Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.

4. Weaving Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn. A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass. Plain weave Examples: chiffon gingham seersucker taffeta

5. Weaving Twill weave: A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface. Twillweave Examples: denim, chino gabardine

6. Weaving Satin weave: A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats. Satinweave Examples: sateen satin

7. Weaving In textiles, pile is the raised surface or nap of a fabric, which is made of upright loops or strands of yarn.

8. Weaving A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created. These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric. Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen

9. Weaving Assignment • Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: • plain weave • twill weave • satin weave • On the back of each weave: • list the advantages • list disadvantages • 3 examples of weave

10. Turning Yarn into Fabric Wales – yarns that run in the lengthwise direction , like a warp yarns in woven fabrics Courses – yarns that run in the crosswise direction, like the weft yarns in woven fabrics Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches

11. Knitting • Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn • Types of weft knits include: • Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery • Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets • Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel • Characteristics include: • Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions • Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads • Made on either flat or circular knitting machines

12. Knitting Jersey Knits

13. Knitting Rib Knits

14. Knitting Double Knits

15. Knitting • Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run-resistant knitted fabric. • Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms • Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits

16. Knitting Tricot knits

17. Knitting Raschel knits

18. Knitting Seamless knitting involves the production of a whole garment in one piece on a knitting machine so that little or no sewing is required.

19. Nonwoven Fabrics Made from fibers, not yarns Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure. No grain line Limited stretch Inexpensive Often disposal

20. Nonwoven Fabrics • Uses include: • Interfacings • Batting for quilts • Felt • Disposable products • Medical products