UNIVERSITA’ DEGLI STUDI DI FIRENZE

1. UNIVERSITA’ DEGLI STUDI DI FIRENZE FACOLTA’ DI AGRARIA Dipartimento di Ortoflorofrutticoltura A new grape variety on the stage of the Tuscan wines: Pugnitello San Felice, June 16th 2006

2. THE HISTORY Prof. P.L. Pisani

3. To understand clearly how Pugnitello has emerged, two themes must be examined and considered: germplasm & genetic erosion Germplasm consists in the totality of all traits of a variety, that is, the morphological, phenological, and biological expressions inherent in a cultivated species, or its b i o d i v e r s i t y Genetic erosion is the phenomenon that affect the repertoire of vine varieties that man the farmer has accumulated over the millennia

4. Recent archaeological evidence has dated to 8,000 years ago vessels, found south of the Caspian Sea, containing residue of chemical components of wine. It can be confidently asserted, however, that domestication of the wild vine took place even earlier, towards the end of the Neolithic; the “dump heap model” accounts for the emergence of the first grape varieties & for their propagation by cuttings.

5. The history of viticulture in Tuscany begins with the Etruscans, around the 9th to the 7th cent. BC. It became more economically important as wine was exported to numerous Mediterranean & trans-alpine areas. Fresco, Tomb of the Leopards, Tarquinia It is safe to assume that the Etruscans assisted & promoted the introduction of various varieties into Etruria. The very name Sangiovese seems to derive from Etruscan words.

6. The Romans cultivated numerous varieties, as many authors attest, such as Pliny the Elder (80), Columella (58) & Virgil. It is reasonable to assume that the Romans inherited a wide spectrum of varieties from the Etruscans. With the Roman Empire gone, viticulture during the Middle Ages went into steep decline, losing, in all probability, most of its varieties. From: Natural History, Pliny

7. Miniature, 13th century During those centuries, preservation of viticultural expertise & of the varietal repertoire itself was due in great part to the efforts of the religious orders.

8. “Church” viticulture was followed by “signorile”, or noble, viticulture practiced by princes and feudal lords, who saw the vineyard and wine as symbols of prestige & of a high level of culture.

9. In the centuries after 1000, with the rise of the Communes and the Maritime Republics, viticulture & wine became the focus of renewed, strong interest.

10. Beginning in the Late Middle Ages and continuing into the Renaissance, a flourishing literature developed on the theme of wine. Numerous works appeared documenting the existence in Tuscany of a wealth of grape varieties.

11. Centuries of viticultural history contributed to the buildup of a rich genetic heritage; over 200 varieties were described in the first half of the 19th century (Micheli) Over time, this genetic stock suffered losses, as a result of technical, agronomic, socio-economic, & disease factors Vitis silvestris Genetic Erosion

12. Beginning in the second half of the 19th century: • emergence of new pathogens (oïdium, peronospora, phylloxera) 20th century • post-phylloxera replantings (1920s-1930s) • sharecropping crisis & exodus from countryside (1960-70) • replantings & conversion from promiscuous to specialised viticulture (1960-70) & development of mechanisation • emergence of V.Q.P.R.D. production codes • D.P.R. 24-12-1969 # 1164 (national catalogue of varieties) • restructuring of viticulture (FEOGA plans) • E.U. Regulation # 380 in 1981 (recommended & authorised varieties)

13. The second half of the 20th century saw attention now focussed on the problem of preservation of genetic stock 1981: the Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche constitutes the “Gruppo di Coordinamento per la Difesa delle Risorse Genetiche delle Specie Legnose” (Group for the coordination of the defense of woody-species genetic resources) 11 Institutions active in viticultural sector

14. 1 recovered varieties: total229 66 Estate visited: 500 29 FI: 146 48 5 37 PI: 83 43

15. Germplasm Tuscan varietal conservation field

16. Primary research objectives • Identify & define ampelographical traits & oenological value of the varieties making up the varietal repertoire of Tuscany. • Insertion into the National Register of Vine Varieties of those grapes exhibiting significant viticultural & oenological promise, with the purpose of encouraging their propagation & cultivation. • Utilisation of such varieties in genetic improvement programs using crossing techniques.

17. THE CONTEXT Prof. M. Boselli

18. Current & future scenarios in this sector • Globalisation of the wine market: wine regions discuss how to direct production. • Some regions rely on certain varieties well-known for their quality results. • New consumers rely on simple notions, such as varietal names. • The most active players in this market are the countries with lowest costs. • Their objective is to produce at the lowest cost possible decent-quality wines with varietal characteristics. • Emerge of a world comody price for wines, just as for coffee & sugar. • Producers compelled to make more costly wines have no possibility of profitting in such a market.

19. Current & future scenarios in this sector • For such regions salvation lies in exactly the opposite direction. • Instead of wine uniformity based on a grape variety, efforts should go to making wines individual by giving each of them a distinct personality. • Re-affirming the value of terroir can be one way of expressing the unique character of a wine area. • Terroir can certainly be seen as contributing to the uniqueness of a wine, but it is not the only component. • Terroir’s true value is developed only through the variety and human expertise. • Terroir, plant, and man must be intimately linked together to achieve a modern typicity that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

20. A segmentation-basedcollective strategy Solving Study - 2003

21. The Concept of Terroir In order to produce wine grapes with specific qualities, an agro-ecosystem must be individuated in which climate, soils, & biological factors interact. The concept of terroir flows from this. It can be defined as “a circumscribed complex of land where nature, geographical makeup, & climate allow the winegrower to achieve products with specific characteristics”. Each terroir will have its own appropriate variety or group of varieties.

22. Current & future scenarios in this sector • The “revealing” variety is of crucial importance. • The specific expression appropriate to each terroir must be developed. • The choices made by the winegrower are the means that will allow a terroir to express itself. • Vineyard management practices are of critical importance.

27. Conclusions Linked intimately to terroir is the manner in which the vineyard functions, which shapes each harvest: sugar, polyphenols, flavour precursors. EXPRESSION OF TERROIR IN WINE The correct varietal must be selected, as well as specific vineyard practices, so that wine quality & typicity will be interconnected with the natural features of each place, ensuring genuiness & product traceability.

28. P U G N I T E L L O Dr. R. Bandinelli

29. P U G N I T E L L O Among the different retrieved red grape varieties, Pugnitello has shown to be the most interesting

30. It has been retrieved in 1981 by Cinigiano, località Poggi del Sasso - Sasso d’Ombrone (GR)

31. The owner of the winery where it was growing had no information regarding its provenance. Its name derived form the shape of the cluster. Nor were any written references found in recent or past ampelographical works. Pugnitello mother vine

32. The variety was placed in the collection of the Dipartimento di Ortoflorofrutticoltura (fruit & flower cultivation) of the University of Florence, located at Agricola San Felice (Siena). Years of research and observations led to the clarification of its characteristics related to ampelography, cultivation, genetics, health, and winemaking potential.

33. Since a hypothesis was advanced that the name Pugnitello might derive from the name of a Sicilian variety, Pignatello, DNA research analysis was carried out in 1997 & 1998 to ascertain whether the two grapes were genetically dissimilar.

34. DNA analysis showed that the two varieties were not genetically similar. This conclusion is strengthened by morphological differences when the vines are grown in identical environments and undergo identical cultivation practices.

35. Ampelography Shoot (10-30 cm): semi-open growing tip, with anthocyanin coloration on edges; curved axis. Young leaves cupped, green, & bronzed, the lower surface lightly tomentose, the upper glabrous; basal leaves flat, green, with red striations, upper surface glabrous, lower bristly.

36. Mature leaf: average size & length, pentagonal, 5-lobed; petiolar sinus closed, lyre- or v-shaped; upper lateral sinuses u-shaped, with overlapping edges; lower lateral sinuses, slightly overlapping lobes. Lobe angle, sharp. Edge flat, lobes slightly involute. Upper surface glabrous, dark green, with light anthocyanin coloration of veins. Lower surface glabrous or very lightly woolly. Teeth very pronounced, irregular, wide at base & convex on sides.

37. Cluster: small (130 g.), very short, pyramidal, simple, usually compact; peduncle very short, thin, slightly woody at maturity; average berry rounded, regular; stylar remnant obvious; skin thick, leathery, blue-black, uniform, heavy bloom. Pulp juicy, thick; juice colorless, taste herbaceous, green pepper; pedicel short, green, hard to break off; brush short, colored. Seeds pear-shaped, average number: 2.

38. Sensory analysis comparison (media 2001 – 2005) Sangiovese

39. C O N C L U S I O N S With regard to ampelography, cultivation, and wine qualities, Pugnitello is very distinctive The wine it yields is extremely interesting as a monovarietal, rich in extract & colour, with good ageing potential. It contributes positive & distinctive qualities to traditional Tuscan red wines

40. On April 14 2002, MI.PA.F. placed it in the Registro Nazionale delle Varietà di Vite (National registry of vine varieties). The Region of Tuscany, by decree # 2900 of May 16 2003, placed it on the list of varieties approved for wine production throughout the region In January 2006 the relevant Ministerial Commission recognised it as a clone of a virus-free plant