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This overview delves into the intricacies of patternmaking, a crucial step in apparel production that translates design concepts into physical garment pieces. It discusses the grading process for size adjustments, the creation and fitting of samples, and the essential costing involved before retail presentations. Furthermore, it outlines the garment cutting and sewing phases, highlighting the role of technology, such as Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM), in enhancing efficiency. Quality control measures and labeling, as well as the differences between haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion, are also addressed.
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Patternmaking • Patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to product an apparel item. • The patternmaker transforms the design into a paper pattern so that the various pieces of the garment can be cut and sewn together to make the garment sample. • Grading The technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size.
Making Samples • Samples are made to a ‘model’ fit size of 6, 8, or 10. • Live models or mannequins wear the samples, and the staff can make any final alterations and corrections before the garments are shown to retail buyers.
Costing • After the manufacturer completes the new garment, but before the retail buyers see it, the production costs of the garment must be calculated in order to set a wholesale price.
Costing • Wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers. • Price includes: • Cost of Labor • Materials • Markup (~220%) • Commission paid to the sales staff • Terms, such as discounts to retail stores that pay bills on time. • Overhead, which includes rent, utilities, salaries, insurance, and advertising • Profit
Order Taking • When retail buyers place their orders, the manufacturer can begin to mass-produce the new garments. • Apparel is usually produced in dozens.
Garment Cutting and Sewing • Cut and sewn in an assembly line manner. • Computerized machinery cuts each pattern. • Layers of fabric are cut per pattern piece to create multiple pieces. • The number of garments cut at a time depends on the number of layers of fabric. • After the pattern pieces are cut, the garments are sewn together. • A different machine sews each section.
Garment Cutting and Sewing • Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process.
Quality Control and Labeling • After a garment is constructed, an inspector checks it for flaws or mistakes. • If mistakes are found, the inspector returns the garment for correction. • The garment is then pressed, and labels and/or handtags are placed on the garment. • Handtags provide information such as the fabric content and care instructions. • Labels Identify the name of the manufacturer line of clothing
Haute Couture vs. Pret-a-Porter • High-fashion designer clothing • Fabrics are created specifically for the designer • Custom-made by hand to fit the client • Require special fittings, cuttings, and sewing • Complicated and precise • Ready to wear • Practical and less expensive • Generates more income for couture fashion houses
Size Classifications • Sizing Systems a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development. • Standard measurements today vary from one manufacturer to another and are influenced by fashion, style, and fit preferences of a particular target market.
Sizes by Brands • Aeropostale Sizes • Kohl’s
Vanity Sizing • Some manufacturers of expensive fashions downsize their lines, because it gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.
