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Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe

Historical . Since pre-historical timesResearch for colour for skin, Wear: leather, textiles,

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Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe

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    1. Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe Andr FALISSE & Corina SCUBLI Crop Production Dpt Gembloux Agricultural University

    2. Historical Since pre-historical times Research for colour for skin, Wear: leather, textiles, Buildings and objects: paints Crafts and arts, Printing, Food, Distinctive labelling (seed dressing, )

    3. Historical (2) Until 1890, all available dyes (pigments and tannins) were from "natural" (i.e. mineral, animal, microbial or vegetal) origin, simply processed by chemical, biological or physical processes Production: from nature or from agriculture Problems: from agriculture, large areas were needed to satisfy world demand; Problems between old and new regions of production; substitution problems; economical competition, Problems from "nature": overexploitation of species and empoverishiment of biodiversity, Raw material and End-products: variable in quality, limited in quality, Problems from preparation processes: pollution (air, water, soils, )

    4. Historical (3) From the end of 19th Cent.: progressively replaced by artificial (synthetic) dyes Advantages: diversity of colours, regulated (mastered) quality, reproductibility, Problems: Chemical: toxic or dangereous reagants or intermediary products, Environmental: Pollution -> industrial sewage stations, Alimentary uses ?? Recently: new attraction for "natural" products

    5. Vegetal dyes: Diversity Botanical diversity: Perennials vs annuals Lignous vs herbaceous Several families or genius specialised in dyes and tanins Ecological diversity: Tropical vs temperate; in Europe: mediteranean vs oceanic vs northern vs continental Soil: acidity, texture, structure, O.M., Exploitation diversity: "On the wild" vs "cultivated" Family /Genius vs species/varieties Domestication Diversity of "technological" processes post-harvest treatments Dyestuffs preparation and uses

    6. Diversity of current uses = potential markets (nature and dimensions) for vegetable dyes Textiles: growing demand for "fashion" wear, domestic textiles (housing), in relation with "organic agriculture" and "ecological way of living" Paints, varnishes,: ?? dependance on political rules, laws, ?? Arts and crafts: pigments, colours, unpredictive and "non reasonable" evolution Inks: demand and offer exist, demand could increase Edible dyes and related (medicinal, cosmetics,health and body cares,): demand and offer exist;current offer < growing demand

    7. Europe and Natural Dyes(1) On the wild and carefully cultivated dyesstuffs: a lot of constraints Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints Socio- Economical constraints

    8. Europe and Natural Dyes (2) On the wild and carefully cultivated dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Climate: Northern Europe and Southern (meditterranean) Europe Microclimate: local, shelters, greenhouses, plasticulture, Soils and mineral requirements picked from the wild: biodiversity ? Agro- technical constraints Socio- Economical constraints

    9. Europe and Natural Dyes (3) On the wild and carefully cultivated dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints Agricultural systems Farm organisation: work forces, Equipment, .. Crop improvement: genetical (breeding) and technical (ripening, harvesting, ) including weed control, place in the crop sequence, Industrial infrastructure: light or heavy Socio- Economical constraints

    10. Europe and Natural Dyes (4) On the wild and carefully cultivated dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints: need for breeding, domestication, mechanisation, Socio- Economical constraints Market: demand and tender, fashion effect, health, Environmental: pollution by dyesstuffs preparation processes, Crop acceptability: competition with other crops for other uses, global equity,

    11. Europe and Natural Dyes (5) a proposal As a non specialist: a spreadsheet on Excell, ?

    12. Proposal for "plant listing", chemicals listing and references ??

    13. Proposal for "Tinctoria", a dyeplants and dyechemicals listing ------------------------------------------ * 1 file: "Tinctoria" * 3 listings as "folders": Plants (120), Chemicals (40), References (7) * all that needs to be completed, improved, too lazy and ignorant -> call for any help * the file is available at " www.fsagx.ac.be/pt" (fac. sc. agronomiques, gembloux) ??

    14. If "Colour is Life", could it be that "Natural Colour is Natural Life " ? Up to you, !! Thanks A reflexion heard in the conference room: "This diapo-show acutely lacks colours"

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