Facial Makeup

1. Facial Makeup Chapter 24 – 12’

2. Main Objective • Emphasize most attractive features/accents • Minimize less attractive features/flaws • For most people makeup should be subtle • Application will vary from person to person • Structure of the face • Color of eyes, skin and hair • How the client wants to look • Results that can be achieved realistically

3. Cosmetics for Facial Makeup • Foundation • Used as a base or protective film applied before makeup and/or powder • Evens out skin tone • Conceals minor imperfections • Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris • Oil based - normal to dry skin types • Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers • Water based – oily skin types • Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder – matte finish

4. Color primer – applied before foundation to cancel out & disguise skin discoloration • Green – redness • Lavender – sallow or yellowish • Amber – dark purplish

5. Foundation Chemistry • Cream – • Dry to normal skin • Medium to full coverage • Oil-based • Liquid – • Oily to normal skin • Sheer to medium coverage • Matte finish • Water-based

6. Powder – • Oily skin • Dry to powdery finish

7. Using Foundation • Success of the entire makeup application depends on the correct color selection and application of the foundation • Skin tone determines foundation color • Test at jawline • Too light – dull chalky • Too dark – muddy or splotchy • Line of demarcation – obvious line where foundation starts or stops

8. Classified as warm, cool, neutral • Warm • Yellow, orange, red-orange • Cool • Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink), • Neutral • Equal amounts of warm and cool tones • FYI – page 759

9. Foundation should always match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone • Apply at jawline to get the best match possible • Color should “disappear” • Remove from container with a sanitized spatula • Applied to the face with a sponge

10. Mineral Foundation • Applied with a large fluffy brush • Kabuki Brush

11. Concealers • Used to cover blemishes and discolorations, dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be applied before or after foundation • Contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage • Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks

12. Wide range of colors • Contain • Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness, anti-aging and moisturizing benefits • Here’s a Tip Page 760 -

13. Pots are the heaviest and provide most coverage • Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and may contain some moisture • Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid consistency • Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be used as a foundation

14. Concealer Chemistry and Use • Chemical composition is similar to cream foundation • Removed from container with a spatula and applied with a sponge or brush • Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with sponge • It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as close as possible! • If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw attention to problems

15. Face Powders • A fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted and scented • Used to add a matte finish • Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discolorations and toning down excessive color and shine • Used to set the foundation

16. Absorb excess oil • Minimizes shine of oily skin

17. Face Powder Chemistry • Loose and pressed • Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and sometimes perfume • Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of bacteria and preserve the product (powder)

18. Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added • Translucent – do not contain much color

19. Using face Powder • Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin types • Heavier weight – normal to oily • Powder should match well with the natural skin tone and work well with the foundation • Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked • Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess with brush • Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick touch-ups • Loose is best for use at home

20. Cheek Color • Blush, blusher, rouge • Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek bone (zygomatic) • Gives natural glow to the face and helps to create more attractive facial contours

21. Cheek Color Chemistry • Oil based formulas – combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base • Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-resistant product • Cream – contain water, thickeners and surfactants that enable particles to penetrate hair follicles and cracks

22. Using Cheek Color • Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied with facial sponge • Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied with facial sponge • Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely used – applied with a cotton puff or brush • Loose powder - variety of shades – applied with brush or cotton puff

23. General Rules for Application • Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear • (remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book bottom of pp. 760) • Do not extend color above the outer corner of eye • Do not apply in bright round circle – blend color so it softly fades into foundation

24. Lip Color • Lipstick or lip gloss • Cosmetic paste usually in a tube • Variety of colors • Color the lips • Enhance or correct the shape of the lips • Some contain sunscreen • Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming dry and cracked

25. Lip Color Chemistry • Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks • All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes • Castor oil is the primary ingredient • Color agents • Waxes

26. Using Lip Color • Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to select appropriate colors • Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shade • Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT BELONGS TO THE CLIENT! • Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush

27. Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and work towards the middle – repeat on opposite side • Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes following natural lip line • Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in and connecting in the middle • Aim for symmetry and balance

28. Lip Liner • Colored pencil used to outline lips • Helps to keep lip color from feathering or bleeding • Usually applied before lip color to ensure proper shape and definition of the lips • Chose color on fashion trends or one that compliments and coordinates with lip color

29. Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue before and after each use • Sanitize sharpener after each use • Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and work toward the middle • Repeat on opposite side • Connect the center peaks with rounded strokes, following the natural lip line • Outline the lower lip from the corners in • Apply liner to lips for color staying power

30. Eye Shadow • Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or contour • Variety of colors • Used wet or dry • Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy

31. Eye Shadow Chemistry • Stick and cream - water based with oil • Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral spirits) • Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so as not to fall apart

32. Using Eye Shadow • Makes eye appear brighter and more expressive • Matching shadow color and eye color creates a flat field of color and should be avoided • Use colors other than eye color - contrasting or complimentary • Light and dark colors can bring attention to the eyes

33. Darker shades make iris appear lighter • Lighter shades make iris appear deeper • Makeup selection should enhance client’s eyes • Color choices should be subtle for daytime • Colors may match and coordinate with client’s clothing • Referred to as highlight, base, and contour colors

34. Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have any finish • Lighter color will appear larger • Base color is generally a medium tone close to skin tone • Used to even skin tone • Applied all over the lid and brow bone, from lash to brow • Other colors applied after, providing a smooth blending • Matte finish is usually preferred

35. Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and darker than skin tone • Applied to minimize a specific area • To create contour in a crease • Define the eyelash line • Remove with spatula and apply with fresh applicator or clean brush • Remove and apply with unused disposable brush

36. Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly upward and outward • Blend

37. Focus On - • 761 • 762 • 763 • Here’s a Tip – • 764 • 765

38. Eyeliners • Used to outline and emphasize the eyes • Variety of colors • Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen • Create a line close to lashes to make eyes appear larger and lashes fuller

39. Eyeliner Chemistry • Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) • Soft and hard form • Used on both upper and lower lids • Liquid and cake • Caution Box PP 764

40. Using Eyeliner • Most prefer color same color as lashes or mascara for a more natural look • More dramatic colors may be chosen depending on trends and own style • Apply with extreme caution • Have a steady hand and make sure the client remains still • Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue before and after each use

41. Sanitize sharpener before and after each use • Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure, close to the lash line • Powder application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator • Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look

42. Eyebrow Color • Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows • Darken the eyebrows • Correct their shape • Fill in sparse areas

43. Eyebrow Color Chemistry • Similar to eyeliner pencil • Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye shadow

44. Using Eyebrow Color • Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with tissue before and after each use • Sanitize sharpener before and after each use • Powder shadow application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator • Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color

45. Mascara • Used to darken, define and thicken the eyelashes • Liquid, cake, and cream form • Variety of shades and tints • Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight with fine or thick bristles • Enhances natural lashes, making them appear longer and fuller • Lashes should be darker than eyebrows

46. Mascara Chemistry • Polymer products • Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives • Pigments • Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair fibers • Pigments – must inert • Unable to combine with other elements

47. Using Mascara • Used on both upper and lower lashes • Apply from inner to outer corners • Dispose of wand • NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!! • Apply carefully • Most common in jury is poking the eye with the applicator • Curl lashes before applying mascara

48. Other Cosmetics • Eye makeup removers – used to remove makeup • Oil based - are generally mineral oil with fragrance added • Water based – are a water solution to which other solvents have been added • Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective

49. Grease paint – heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes • Cake or pancake makeup – • Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened sponge • Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and pigmentation defects

50. Makeup Brushes and Tools • Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder and blend edges of color • Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush used for applying blush • Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat edge • Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge