'Peter muller' diaporamas de présentation

Waves on the Inner Shelf into Beaches: As offshore waves approach the shore, they shoal , refract , and then break .

Waves on the Inner Shelf into Beaches: As offshore waves approach the shore, they shoal , refract , and then break . As waves feel the seabed, Stokes Drift occurs: (function of the non-linearity of waves in shallow water) . Orbit at wave crest slightly larger than orbit at wave trough.

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