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2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc. Marketing Terminology. Markets. Where goods are produced and sold to buyers at wholesale prices during market weeks. The major domestic market centers are: New York By far the largest and most important market Los Angeles Miami Dallas.
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Marketing Terminology Markets Where goods are produced and sold to buyers at wholesale prices during market weeks • The major domestic market centers are: • New York • By far the largest and most important market • Los Angeles • Miami • Dallas 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Sales Representatives • The original link between the New York fashion scene and the provinces • Sales representatives evolved from lonely traveling salesmen showing only one line to groups of salesmen showing multiple, non-competing lines • Ultimately, this developed into regional market centers, known as marts 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Marts • Consist of exhibition spaces that house wholesale markets • The Merchandise Mart in Chicago is the oldest of the marts • Today, there is a mart in most major cities 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Services of Market Centers and Marts • Publicity: fashion shows, parties • Information Services: buyer’s directory, publications • Educational Services: seminars, conferences 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Trade Shows • Periodic events in regional market centers • They are smaller than market weeks • MAGIC International, is the exception • Mens Apparel Group In California, the largest show of its kind, is like a market week minus the permanent facilities, and held in Las Vegas • Today, women, children, and accessories are included in the MAGIC International shows 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
New York City • Has many advantages: • It is the nation’s fashion capital • New York City offers, by far, the largest selection of manufacturers’ showrooms • It is the fashion publishing, buying, and retailing center • It is the cultural center of the United States, the best place for designers to draw inspiration from all forms of art 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
New York City • In 1993, Seventh on Sixth originated to provide a platform for American designers to become leading players in the global fashion business • An off-shoot of the Council of Fashion Designers in America (CFDA), in 2001, they were acquired by IMG and produce Olympus Fashion Week in New York • Today, IMG is the producer of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Los Angeles and Sunglass Hut Swim Shows Miami • Internationally, they produce, manage and represent Fashion Fringe (London), Lakmé India Fashion Week, Thai Supermodel Search and Pakistan Fashion Week 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Regional Market Centers • Each market center has their own unique flavor and fashion • The Los Angeles Market • Easy-living, casual lifestyle, colorful • The Dallas Market • Southwestern looks, handcrafted styles • The Miami Market • Latino and Caribbean flavor, colorful • Best known for children’s wear 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets France • France first emerged as a fashion showcase during the reign of Louis XIV (1643–1715) • Textile production in Lyons and lace works in Alençon were established to meet the needs of the royalty at court at Versailles • France originated haute couture in 1858 when Charles Frederick Worth opened his doors as the first couturier 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne • Established in 1868, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne sets the standards and dates for the haute couture shows • The Chambre Syndicale’s most valuable contribution is that it represents its members in arbitration disputes and seeks regulation of wages and working hours 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Gowns by John Galliano for Dior Haute Couture • By itself loses money but creates profitability through: • Franchising • Licensing arrangements • Prêt-à-porterlines 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Prêt-à-Porter • Includes designs for the ready-to-wear portion of the market • This is the the money making section of the fashion industry, giving designers access to large markets • Standardized sizing and mass manufacturing created profitability 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Semiannual “Pret” Shows Held in the major European fashion capitals: • London • Paris • Milan 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Italy • France’s most serious rival in the fashion industry, the Italians have made massive inroads during the last quarter of the 20th century • Italian designers are renown for their superb knitwear, accessories, and textiles • Designers use innovative and beautiful textiles to launch themselves in the luxury markets • Italian designers have also capitalized on the highly skilled domestic laborers 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Italy • As a result, designers like Giorgio Armani developed tremendous influence • Today’s luxury market is greatly influenced by Gucci and Prada 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Great Britain • Best known for handcrafted suits from Savile Row • Many of today’s most important designers are from Britain: • LVMH Moët Hennessy, employs John Galliano for Dior, Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, and set up Stella McCartney with her own line • Vivienne Westwood has been setting design trends for over 20 years • Philip Treacy is today’s most recognized hat designer • Julien Macdonald has a stellar reputation 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Germany and Scandinavia • Formerly nonexistent on the fashion tour, Germany surfaced with the ascendance of Hugo Boss, Escada, Mondi, and Jil Sander • Leather apparel, specifically in menswear, is a popular Swedish product • Sweden and Norway are among the most important suppliers of mink and other furs to countries around the world 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Japan • The 70s saw the first wave of Japanese designers—Issey Miyake, Hanae Mori, Kenzo Takada, and Kansai Yamamoto—with daring and provocative designs • The second wave arrived in the 80s, with Rei Kawakubo, Matsuhiro Matsuda, and Yohji Yamamoto leading the way • In the 90s, designers focused on retro pop cultural influences such as hippie beads and T-shirts and 1970s punk • Hiroake Ohya produced a limited edition of dresses packaged in books that were sold in bookshops 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Foreign Fashion Markets Elsewhere’s… • China is one of the largest exporters of both raw materials and finished products • In 2000, the U.S. gave China normal trader status, which gave China entry into the WTO • India has the most handlooms in the world, 13.5 million, making it a formidable textile producer • India’s fashion industry is growing since the 1999 Lakmé India Fashion Week in New Delhi • Mexico benefited greatly from NAFTA, becoming one of the United States largest trading partners in a short period and making it an even more attractive offshore location for domestic manufacturers 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Global Sourcing • Describes the process of shopping for and purchasing imported goods • U.S. buyers rely on the help and experience of specialists. Foreign made goods can be purchased at and by the following: • Foreign fashion markets • Store-owned foreign buying offices • Commissionaires or independent agents • Import fairs held in the United States • Importers 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Private Label Buying • Retailers make their own assortment to set them apart from the competition • Private label has two actual “types” of buying • One type consists of the manufacturer designing for the retailer, such as Federated Merchandising Group • Both domestic and offshore production are used to complete private label goods 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Specification Buying • Is the other type of private label manufacturing • It consists of a store, or retailer, actually designing the product to be manufactured • JCPenney’s and the Gap provide standards and guidelines for everything from material quality to workmanship styling and cost 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Specification Buying Apparel for Wal-Mart being manufactured in India 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Counterfeit Goods • Inferior imitations are counterfeit goods, much like counterfeit currency • Luxury goods are the chief objects of counterfeiters 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Black Market or Bootleg • Are more of a problem to designers • They are made by the same manufacturers, but sold on the black market • The quality is not that of a cheap rip-off and it is tough to distinguish them from real items 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Black Market or Bootleg Cartons of counterfeit goods that have been confiscated by the police Confiscated “fakes” 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
U.S. Penetration of Foreign Markets • Looms as a solution to the trade deficit • U.S. companies will not benefit from any laws in foreign countries promoting imports • However, U.S. exports have expanded using reputation for quality and trendiness • American influence accelerates the “homogenization” of fashion • As U.S. companies develop foreign markets the international sales will become part of every fashion houses’ sales 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
U.S. Penetration of Foreign Markets • Globalization will continue to be a factor going forward Reasons: • Technology available to enhance communication and production • Increased production needs of large manufacturers • Licensing opportunities • As more people are involved in the industry, from producers to consumers, then you need more facilities 2007 Fairchild Publications, Inc.