Plant Extracts and Fine Chemicals in Cosmetics

1. Plant Extracts and Fine Chemicals in Cosmetics Ed Galley

2. History • Long history of use • Egyptian, Greek, • Actives and fragrance

3. Current Uses NATURAL FOCUS Radox shower gel – claims a blend of natural herbs and minerals ingredients list:- Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulphate, CocamidopropylBetaine, Sodium Chloride, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Citrus MedicaLiminum Oil, Citric Acid, Perfam, Limonene, Polyquaternium 2, Sodium Lactate, Fragrance ingredients and colours Supersoft Yoghurt and Peach Smoothie Shampoo – claims with Yoghurt Protein and Peach Kernel Oil Ingredients list:-Sodium Laureth Sulphate, PEG7 Glycereth, Cocoate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Chloride, Glycerol Distearate, Laureth-2, Sodium Benzoate, Glycerine, Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Parfam, Laureth 4, Salycylic Acid, CocamidopropylBetaine, Panthanol, Hydrogenated Caster Oil, Niacinamide, Polyquternium 10, Prunuspersica, Yoghurt, Limonene, linalool,

4. Current Uses Performance Focus CyclopentasiloxaneAquaButylene glycolDimethicone cross polymerCyclohexasiloxaneGlycerinDimethiconecopolyolSodium ascorbyl phosphatePolysorbate 20Magnesium sulphatePhenoxyethanolSodium PCARetinylpalmitateMethylparaben Propylene glycolLupinusalbusCarbomerButylparabenEthylparabenPropylparabenIsobutylparabenPanax ginsengMorus AlbaTocopherolPalmitoyl pentapeptide-3

5. Needs • Sunless tanning actives • Colours • Emulsifiers and surfactants • UV absorbers, • Antimicrobials • Polymers

6. Delivering consumer needs through natural products Requirements of new natural materials to interest a major cosmetics company • Differentiation • Sustainability • Regulatory • Safety and efficacy • Supply • Cost • IP

7. Differentiation • Unique ingredient • Same plant but proven better performance • Safer/less impurities etc • More reliable source • Cheaper

8. Sustainability/Ethical Trading • Source • Fully characterised plant variety • Fully tracked “Identity Preserved” base raw material from field to factory • Preferably cultivated • Environmental impact • If wild harvest full environmental impact assessment prepared • If field grown ensure not displacing endangered species • Production methods • Low carbon as possible • low impact solvents – water, ethanol. SC CO2 • Yield • Actives preferably in plants at above 1% • Fair trade • Fair returns throughout the supply chain

9. Regulatory • REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL on cosmetic products – came into force Jan 2010 - 3.5 year implementation period • Animal testing • Positive lists – colours, preservatives, sun filter • Efficacy/documentation • EU regulation on the Registration, Authorisation, Evaluation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACh) • Biocides Directive 98/8/EC – insect repellents • Advertising Standards/Trading Standards

10. Safety and Efficacy • Safety • Meet the requirements of Cosmetics and REACh regulations as appropriate • As much In-vitro or human ex-vivo data as possible • Issues around animal testing • Supported by as much published literature data as possible • Challenging compounds – enzymes, small proteins, estrogenics • Efficacy • Data from “test tube”, in-vitro skin models and preferably human studies • Placebo controlled and comparative data against the best competitor on the market • Some formulation compatibility/stability data

11. Supply • Variable Volumes • Stage Gate Stop/Go strategy at each milestone • Customer demand hard to predict – can go up or down! • Quick response • Need to be able to respond to demands what ever the season • Delivery to factories around the world • Logistics to deliver on time in full • short lead times

12. Costs • Realistic cost analysis at start of the development • Development, raw material, processing, capital etc • Understanding market cost sensitivities • Small change in cost of goods has large change in selling price • Economies of scale • Essential to have many end users in a number of industries, reduces cost and risk

13. Intellectual Property • Understand the patent landscape • Protect the compound/ plant/ process/ end use/ combinations where possible • Think about research disclosures • Remember a patent stops other people using your invention – it does NOT allow you to use your invention

14. Example • Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow) • Long history of use • Source of polysaccharides/polyphenols • Current sources too variable in performance and quality • Known activities: • Immunomodulating, anti-eczema and psoriasis, general skin soothing protecting and moisturising, dental gum health, digestive aid

15. Novel growing system • Hydroponics • Chosen due to its greater yield potential (tops vs. root growth) • Roots (source of actives) more easily harvested and likely to be of consistant quality • Allows pesticide free and unwanted heavy metals free growing conditions • - Higher yield of active compounds and consistent quality

16. Choice of extraction technology • Driven by interest in both polysaccharides and polyphenols - need to maximise yield • Alcohol extraction not appropriate due to poor solubility of polysaccharides. • Focus on superheated water due to specialist knowledge of a key collaborator

17. Outcomes – efficacy testing • COMET assays carried out to determine DNA protective effect against UVA damage • Statistically significant reduction in DNA damage for hydroponically sourced material compared to conventional

18. Outcomes – efficacy testing Prevention of lipid peroxidation in human skin lipid model

19. The final outcome

20. Summary • The cosmetics industry needs new extracts and fine chemicals from plants • By careful consideration of the factors involved in the development of new actives it is possible to deliver exiting new materials that delight the customers