Japanese Fashion

1. Japanese Fashion Paloma Garcia 17 May 2017

2. History: 4th Century Japan Before 4th Century • Men: wrapped themselves in lengths of cloth that hung from their shoulders • Women: wore single piece of clothing with opening in the center which fit around their necks • This clothing was also found in other parts of the world • Greece and Rome, Indonesia, Peru During 4th Century • Sewn clothing was introduced • Men and women: wore upper garment extended below the waist with straight tight sleeves • Lower garment • Men: trouser-like hakama • Women: long pleated skirts (mo)

3. History: Heian Period • Preferred beauty standards for women included darkened teeth, some body fat, and eyebrows painted above their original eyebrows • They also shaved off their eyebrows before drawing them back on above their original eyebrows Court dress was divided into 3 categories • Special • Formal • Men: sokutai • Women: 12 layers known as junihitoe • Casual

4. History: Kamakura and Muromachi Period • Men of the samurai class • Formal dress: sokutai • Casual dress: kariginu • Women of the samurai class • Formal dress: long robes known as uchikake • Casual dress: quilted garments known as kosode • Kosode is a single kimono, considered underwear and began to be worn without a hakama over it during this period. It was instead worn with an obi.

5. History: Edo Period • Men of the warrior class • Kamishimo: worn when attending the shogun • Attached their swords to their obi • Women of the warrior class • Obi became wider and more decorative • Uchikake: worn on formal occasions • Men and women • Kosode and hakama: worn on casual occasions • Everyday clothing became more eye-catching due to improved dyed materials and patterns that are still seen in today’s kimono

6. Japanese to Western Fashion: Meiji Period • Western-style uniforms were adopted during the Meiji Period for people serving in the military, policemen, postal carriers • Beginning of great changes in Japanese dress • In early Meiji period the kimono was the most popular fashion trend • Haori, hakama, and Western-style hats were worn by men for formal occasions • Women wore kimonos with Western-style boots • Still worn today by young women attending university graduation ceremonies

7. Japanese to Western Fashion: Showa Period Most clothing became Western • Men: business suits became common apparel for company employees • Women: western clothing was mostly worn by working women; many women began to wear casual Western clothing at home

8. Modern Fashion: 1940s • Women stopped using loose-fitting pantaloons (monpe) and instead began wearing skirts • Most fashion that entered Japan from the US • Women preferred wearing “American Style” clothing • Narrow-waist long skirts flaring out at the bottom with wide belts • Paris fashion was introduced to Japan by the US • In 1947 Christian Dior debuted his Paris Collection • News about his collection was introduced to Japan via the US and Japanese women became interested

9. Modern Fashion: 1950s • Japanese men and women used movies as a major source of information on overseas fashion because most people did not travel overseas • European and American fashion and daily life was shown

10. Modern Fashion: 1950s Fashion trends based on films • The Red Shoes • English film screened in 1950 • Red shoe trend among young people • Sabrina • Screened in 1954 staring Audrey Hepburn • Young women wore toreador pants and “Sabrina shoes” • Taiyo no kisetsu (Season of Violence) • Based on award winning novel by Ishihara Shintaro • Men wore t-shirts and aloha shirts, and sunglasses • Women wore colorfully patterned short pants

11. Modern Fashion: 1960s Men’s Fashion • “Ivy style” – clothing worn by American students from Ivy League universities • It was first worn by young company employees and then by middle-aged company employees Women’s Fashion • Spring of 1965, minishirts shown in the Paris Collection were deemed unsuitable for Japanese women’s figures • In 1967, English model Twiggy “miniskirt queen” visited Japan and immediately miniskirts became popular • Miniskirts remained a popular trend until 1974 • Young people were starting trends in Japan • Fashion was making a transition from formal wear to casual wear • It was becoming less conservative only among young people • Older company employees wore dark grey suits • As a result they were nicknamed dobunezumi-zoku (the gutter-rat tribe)

12. Modern Fashion: 1970s Fashion in Kobe and Yokohama • Nyutora (new traditional) • Women’s version of American “ivy style” that originated in Kobe • Plain blouse worn with a skirt that covers the knees • Onna-rashisa (appearing feminine) and otonappoku mieru (looking adult): used to identify nyutora styles • Hamatora (Yokohama traditional) • Women’s version of American “ivy style” that originated in Yokohama • Sweatshirts with brand/designer logos, often worn with fold-down collars • Kodomopposa (childlike quality): used to describe hamatora styles

13. Modern Fashion: 1980s Brand/designer clothing became a trend all over Japan • DC burando: “designer and character brands” • Popular Japanese designers • Takada Kenzo, Miyake Issey, Yamamoto Kansai • High-end Japanese designers • Kawakubo Rei, Kikuchi Takeo, Inaba Yoshi, Matsuda Mitsuhiro

14. Modern Fashion: 1980s In the mid-1980s women’s fashion branched out into two directions • Bodikon (body conscious): • Emphasis on natural body shape • Usually worn by women who frequented Japan’s discos • Shibukaji (Shibuya casual) • Casual clothing • Trend started by high school and university students that shopped at boutiques located at Tokyo’s Shibuya Ward shopping streets • Basic concept was simplicity and durability

15. Modern Fashion: 1990s • Fashion wasn’t a focus for Japan due to the collapse of the “bubble economy” • Many different kinds of styles without any specific trends • Mid-1990s junior high and high school students started fashion trends • Trends were among groups of students with their own trends • For example: long dyed-brown hair, tan skin, miniskirts, loose/baggy socks over their shoes

16. Modern Fashion: 2000s • During the first decade of the 21st century, the economic troubles caused by the “bubble economy” affected the fashion industry • Changes to the fashion industry • Mass produced, low-priced products were no longer the trend • The new trend was to produce the latest styles with high quality materials • “Fast fashion” was starting to expand overseas. Overseas manufacturers took advantage of this by opening many shops in large commercial areas • Foreign luxury brands that were marketing the wealthier classes opened up shops at Ginza in Tokyo which was the opposite of “fast fashion” • ”Tokyo Girls Collection” was founded in 2005 and has gotten more and more popular over the years

17. Modern Fashion: 2000s Japanese Western

18. Future Traditional Japanese Dress • The kimono is not seen in Japan as much today • They are worn by elderly people, waitresses in traditional restaurants, people who teach or take lessons in traditional Japanese art and customs • Troublesome to wear in comparison to Western clothing • They are not practical and are not the best outfit choice when doing physical activities • Worn on important occasions such as • Hatsumode (first visit to shrines or temples in the new year) • Seijinshiki (ceremonies for young people who turn 20 years old) Seijinshiki • University graduation ceremonies • Weddings • Other important celebrations and formal parties • Girls and unmarried women wear furisode, which are kimono with long sleeves

19. Japanese Kimono Chinese Hanfu Hanfu ”Han clothing” Traditional, historical dress of Han people The Japanese kimono and the Korean hanbok were influenced by Chinese clothing There are many different types of hanfu A complete Hanfu dress includes Yi: Open cross-collar garment, worn by both men and women Pao: Closed full-body garment, worn by men Ru: Open cross-collar shirt Shan: Open cross-collar shirt or jacket worn over the yi Qun or chang: Skirt for women and men Ku: Trousers or pants • T-shaped, straight lined robes that falls to the ankle, with attached collars and long, wide sleeves • Wrapped around the body with the left side over the right and secured by an obi that is tied to the back • Not wrapped with the left side over the right when dressing the dead for burial • Kimonos are worn with traditional footwear and split-toe socks • Examples of footwear include zori and geta • Chinese fashion greatly influenced Japan from the Kofun period to the early Heian period

20. Geisha • Traditional Japanese female entertainer • Acts as a hostess: performs various Japanese art such as classical music, dance, games, serving tea and conversing • Makeup • Traditional makeup of an apprentice geisha features a thick white based with red lipstick and red and black accents around the eyes and eyebrows • Dress • Always wear kimono. Apprentice geisha wear colorful kimono with extravagant obi which is brighter than the kimono. • Maiko of Kyoto wear the obi tied in darari (dangling obi) style • Tokyo hanyoku wear the obi tied in various ways • Older geisha of Kyoto wear more subtle patterns and styles of obi. Usually the taiko musubi (drum knot) style that is used by married women • Tokyo and Kanazawa geisha wear yanagi musubi (willow style), taiko musubi and tsunodashi musubi styles • Hair • 17th century the traditional shimada hairstyle was created

21. Gender Issues • Idealized figure of Japanese women is fragile and petite with pale skin, small features and big eyes • Big eyes are admired, especially with double eyelids • Women often worry about their weight, breast size and bust size • Thousands of products are sold to women who want to be fragile and petite and have pale skin bringing in $15 billion a year • The Japanese cosmetics industry is the 2nd largest in the world • “Marshmallow girls” became a term used online to address curvier Japanese women trying to break the beauty standards of Japan • Pale skin is ideal because tanned skin is historically associated with the working class whereas pale skin is associated with nobility • Women try to avoid the sun or purchase lotions that whiten their skin • Clothing is often accessorized with pinks, reds, bows, and frills in order to look more feminine

22. Uniforms • Summer uniforms • White dress shirt and uniform slacks for boys/ Traditional uniform blouse and tartan skirt with tie for girls • Sports-activity uniform • Polyester track suit used all year. A T-shirt and short pants used for the summer • Students often break their school’s dress code depending on how strict their school is • Girls shorten their skirts permanently or wrap up their top to make it shorter. Boys sag, remove ties, or keep their shirts unbuttoned • Students must take off their outdoor shoes and put on their uwabaki • Some schools require students to change into their P.E. clothes in their classrooms so many students wear their P.E. clothes under their uniforms • It used to be common for students to wear their uniforms outside of school, however, more students are beginning to wear casual clothes instead • Most public elementary schools do not require uniforms

23. Cosplay • Cosplay: the practice of dressing up as a character from a movie, book, or video game • This hobby started in the 1990s and has rapidly gained people’s attention since • People can dress up as any character they want • Characters do not have to be from an anime or manga • For some it is a hobby and for others it’s a lifestyle • Popular cosplayers • Ginny Mcqueen, Marrie Claude Bourbonnais, Yaya Han, Myrtle Sarrosa, Linda Le, Jessica Nigri, Adrianne Curry, Alodia Gosiengfiao • Japanese cosplayer Reika (photo), known for her male cosplays • https://youtu.be/sBb5Txi1R48?t=1m13s

24. Harajuku Culture • Lolita • https://youtu.be/mce9JfGXsF8 • Decora • https://youtu.be/WblNctc3ys0?t=1m4s

25. Work Cited • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimono • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanfu • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Women_in_Japan • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_school_uniform • http://web-japan.org/factsheet/en/pdf/e34_fashion.pdf • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosplay • https://cosplayhouse.wordpress.com/2016/01/28/interesting-facts-about-cosplay-you-must-know/ • http://animeimpulse.com/blogdetails?blog_id=17120 • https://youtu.be/sBb5Txi1R48?t=1m13s • https://youtu.be/mce9JfGXsF8 • https://youtu.be/WblNctc3ys0?t=1m4s