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Kinds of Cosmetics Components of Cosmetics Classification of Cosmetics About Emulsion Check points of Cosmetics. What is Cosmetics?. Science of Mixing!
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Kinds of Cosmetics Components of Cosmetics Classification of Cosmetics About Emulsion Check points of Cosmetics What is Cosmetics? • Science of Mixing! • We need to mix all the materials without any chemical reactions in general, and expect the individual characteristic from each, and sometimes their synergistic effect as the better case.
Stability check ; Odor, Color, Appearance pH, Viscosity Instant test – Heat, Centrifuge… <About Emulsion> How to formulate Emulsion; • Stability Safety • Key point would be Surfactant! • Difference Speciality / Functionals Obstruction to Emulsion; • Sun light (UV- light) UV- absorber • Heat very close to ageing • Microbe Preservative • Metal ion Chelating agent | • Others --- oxidation, vibration, etc.
<About Emulsion> Surfactant ; HLB Solubility in Water HLB 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 insoluble crude dispersion milky dispersion with hard stirring stable milky dispersion almost transparent soluble
<About Emulsion> Phase inversion– Technique to make Stable emulsion (O/W) and to reduce Surfactants Water phase Oil phase Actually
<About Emulsion> Ionic property of the materials Surfactant Polymer • Anionic • Cationic • Nonionic • (Amphoteric) Setting effect, Holding effect Wash ability, Foaming effect Compatibility with Skin and Hair, Anti-static / Anti-bacteria effect Conditioning effect (Better comb-ability, Anti-static effect) Compatibility with any ionics, Less irritation Better compatibility Cationic at acidic side Anionic at alkali side
<Check points of Cosmetics> (summary) • Stability • Safety • Skin (Hair) feel - Texture [light/heavy, fresh/moisturizing…] • Handling - Package suitability… • Favorite - Fragrance, Color, Package design… • Effectiveness
<Check points of Cosmetics> (details) • Stability – Appearance, Odor, Color • Any ingredient should be kept at the recovery rate, >90% under RT after 3 years. [becoming World standard]Substitute way (e.g., under 40C after 6 months) should be up to each customer. • Safety • Kinds/Amounts of the preservatives and the fragrances will influence (so often) not only the stability of the final formula, but also the safety of it. • Preservatives should be decided after considering the cleanliness of each raw material, manufacturing facilities, packages and their consumers. • Effectiveness • Any effectiveness (e.g., SPF, Whitening effect, Anti-aging effect) should be confirmed by each customer, according to PL concept [World standard]. Same chemicals can not always perform the same!