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The Bugaboo Provincial Park

The Bugaboo Provincial Park. Summary of Area.

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The Bugaboo Provincial Park

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  1. The Bugaboo Provincial Park

  2. Summary of Area • The Bugaboos or the „Bugs” (Bugaboo Provincial Park) is regarded as Canada’s best destination for alpine rock climbing. The mountain range is located in the core of the Purcell Mountains, on the border between British Columbia and Alberta. The range consists of about half dozen of granite spires with summits as high as 10,000 feet. The Bugs are a real alpine environment, on the way to the majority of the routes you have to cross glaciers. The Bugs have something to offer for mountaineers with various climbing skills. Here you can get some first alpine experiences on classic multi pitch routes like the Kain Route. Free climbers may challenge with the east face of Snowpatch Spire or Howser Massif.

  3. Costs • $500 airfare to Calgary • Road Trip (approx drive time of 46 hrs)? • $50/day rental car (probably less) • Several options to reduce rental car costs may be available.

  4. Conrad Kain Hut • $22/night, 7 day max

  5. Alt Lodging camping nearby hut, $5/night

  6. Is there climbing…?! • 10,000 ft of scramble -> 20+ pitches • 5.easy -> 5.hard • Plenty o’ long & easy (more to follow) • Glaciers (from almost non-technical to full-on) • Alpine

  7. Howser Spire • Central Howser Tower • 17. Central Howser - North Ridge 5.3 • 18. Central Howser - East Face 5.7, 5p • 19. Central Howser - South Ridge 5.8 C3, 5p • 20. Chocolate Fudge Brownie 5.9 A2, west face, starts with 3p of FoD, then L • 21. Fear and Desire 5.9 A3+, west face • 22. Spinstone Gully TD+ (M7), between Central and South, from west side • South Howser Tower • 23. South Howser - East Ridge Integral 5.8 A1, 8p to join EFR, (N. Howser?) • 24. South Howser - East Face-Ridge 5.6 A1 **, 7p • 25. South Howser - East Face var. 5.8, 2-4p to join EFR 2 • 6. Thompson-Turk 5.10 R, 7p, 150m LFC, alt. rap route • 27. South Howser - Northeast Face 5.7 A2, now the standard rap route (6 raps) • 28. Perma Grin TD- (M5 WI4), 6p, ice smears on NE Face, not sure of rel. loc. • 29. The Big Hose D+ (M4 WI3), 700' ice climb, nice when in condition • 30. South Howser - Northeast Buttress 5.10, 2p ice, 7p rock, finish on N face • 31. South Howser - North Face-Ridge 5.6 A2, 8-9p • 32. Beckey-Chouinard 5.10a ***, 20p --more to folllowon this! • 33. Lost in the Talus 5.11-, 5p direct start to B-C, on featured wall to right • 34. Lost in the Towers 5.10 A1 **, 15p • 35. Catalonian Route 5.11 R, 20p, 2 spicy 5.11 pitches with RPs for crux pitch • 36. Soul Cinders 5.11 R C2, 20p, steep chimney system bet. Catalonian + Minaret

  8. North Howser Tower (11150') 1. North Howser - East Face - South Ridge 4th 2. North Howser - East Face - North Ridge 5.4 3. North Howser - East Ridge - North Ridge 5.4 4. North Howser - North Ridge Integral 5.4 ** 5. North Howser - Northwest Face 5.8 A2 6. North Howser - West Buttress 5.7 A2 7. All Along the Watchtower 5.12a *, 23p, 9p of Warrior, L, 800' 5.11, 30' crux 8. Armageddon 5.11+ A2, RFC, 10' of aid, 7p of Warrior, to RFC and huge dike 9. Warrior 5.9 A3, 20p 10. Mescalito 5.9 A3 11. Spicy Red Beans and Rice 5.12a, start on p2 of Seventh Rifle, L chimney+wide 12. Seventh Rifle 5.11b, 34p, chimneys, loose rock 13. The Shooting Gallery 5.10 A2+, 23p, starts 600' R of Seventh Rifle 14. Young Men on Fire 5.11 A4, 26p, Climbing #153, p.72-75, start 40' R of SG 15. Hey Kool-Aid 5.11+, 8p start to Young Men on Fire, many wides 16. North Howser - Southwest Face 5.7 A2

  9. Beckey-Chouinard Route • South Howser Spire’s west face was first climbed in 1961 by Fred Beckey and Yvon Chouinard. The Beckey-Chouinard (V 5.10a), included in the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America is considered one of the best alpine rock climbs in America. It consists of 16-20 pitches of mostly 5.7 and occasional 5.9. There is one short section of 5.10 that can ba avoided by tension traverse. If you are fast you can climb it in a day, but there is also a place for a bivy, at the top of pitch 10.

  10. Beckey-Chouinard • 3 ½ hr approach • Optional East Creek Boulder (Base) Camp at base of climb • Basic glacier experience to cross Upper Vowell Glacier • Rap route has anchors aprox every 30m

  11. Howser Spire

  12. Howser Spire

  13. Pigeon Spire • Situated between Snowpatch Spire and South Howser Tower and separates the Bugaboo Glacier from the Vowell Glacier. The most visited route here is the West Ridge (5.4) which stays right on the knifeedge and finishes with a fun au cheval section. On a busy weekend you can meet a couple dozen of climbers on the route. The line can be a great introduction to alpine rock climbing, and in dry conditions it is a great solo.

  14. Pigeon Spire • Pigeon Spire (10250') • 57. Pigeontoe - West Summit 5.4 • 58. Miller-Shepard 5.6, 6p, NE ridge • 59. Pigeon - North Face 5.7 A2, 7p • 60. Wingtip 5.10- *, 6p, ow crux • 61. Pigeon - Northwest Face 5.7 A3, 6p • 62. Feather Fallout 5.7 A2, 6p • 63. Tailfeather Pinnacle - Right Side 5.10-, 4p • 64. Pigeon - West Ridge 5.4 *** • 65. Lambice Tour 5.8, 5p • 66. Parboosingh Route 5.5, 8p • 67. Pigeon - South Face 5.6 A1 • 68. Southeast Buttress var. 5.6 A0 • 69. Southeast Buttress 5.8 A2 • 70. Cleopatra's Alley 5.12a **, 13p • 71. Pigeon - East Face 5.10-, 17p, often wet, nice when dry

  15. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  16. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  17. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  18. Pigeon West Ridge • Basic glacier travel approach

  19. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  20. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  21. Pigeon West Ridge 5.4

  22. Snowpatch Spire • This mountain peak was the last of the Bugaboo Spires to be climbed. The first reconnaissance was made in 1916 by Conrad Kain, who commented later that the spire was impossible to climb. For years there were several attempts to climb the spire. Finally its first ascent was done in the summer of 1940 by Jack Arnold and Raffi Bedayn. Snowpatch Spire is located South-West of the Conrad Kain hut, some 30 minutes long hike from the hut across the Crescent Glacier. The spire offers routes from 5.6 to 5.12. Its biggest challenge is the south face. So far only two routes have been established there. • The easiest route on Snowpatch Spire is the Southeast Corner (IV 5.6). With 12 to 15 pitches you reach the summit with numerous possibilities to simul-climb. South Face Direct (V+ 5.11+ R) was put up in 1999. It is a serious climb up corners and cracks. • Another “must” on Snowpatch Spire is Sunshine Crack (IV 5.10+) on north face. It is a nine-pitch crack system on the north buttress of the mountain. • 8-9 single rope Rap descent

  23. Snowpatch Spire • Snowpatch Spire (10050') • 72. Snowpatch - South Face Left 5.8 A3, poor rock, joins SW ridge at Surf's Up • 73. ASTA • 74. This Monkey's Gone to Heaven 5.6 A4, 12p, starts 30' R of ASTA • 75. Snowpatch - South Face Direct 5.11+ R, 9p to join upper part, sustained • 76. Snowpatch - South Face - Upper Section 5.11, 7p • 77. Lightning Bolt Crack 5.10, 3p, LFC, 9, 10 undercling, 10 • 78. Snowpatch - SE Corner - Direct Finish 5.9 • 79. Snowpatch - Southeast Corner 5.6 ***, 16p • 80. Beckey-Mather 5.7 A2, 17p • 81. Arbos-Clotet 5.10a A3, 600m • 82. Snowpatch - East Face Diagonal 5.7 A3 • 83. In Harm's Way 5.8 A4 • 84. Deux ex Machina 5.9 A2, 17p • 85. Deux ex Machina var. 5.10+ • 86. Parker-Brashaw 5.9 A1 • 87. Sunshine Wall 5.10- **, 11p, upper chimney system • 88. Warrior Way, LFC • 89. Hockey Night in Jersey 5.9 A3, starts 100' R of Warrior Way • 90. Sweet Sylvia 5.12b, start 2p on Tom Eagan, then left to 400' ow, AAJ • 91. Tom Eagan Memorial 5.9 A3 **, 13p • 92. The Power of Lard 5.13, 7p, 1.5p Tom Eagan to p6 of HH, 8 12b 11c 11b _ 13 • 93. White Ducks in Space 5.7 A3 • 94. Hobo's Haven 5.7 A4, 6p • 95. Bugaboo Corner 5.10- ***, 12p, ow to chimneys, joins Parker-Brashaw • 96. Banshee 5.10 **, 9p, 9+ ow • 97. Sunshine 5.10+ ***, 9p, 9+ ow

  24. Snowpatch cont’d • 98. Dark Side of the Sun A4, 2p • 99. Buckingham Route 5.6 A2 • 100. Buckingham rappel var. • 101. Gran-Hudson 5.7 A2, 8p • 102. Quasimodo 5.9 A1, 10p • 103. Flamingo Fling 5.9 **, 8p • 104. Snowpatch - North Summit Direct 5.11+ ***, 7p • 105. Tower Arete 5.10- A2 **, 8p • 106. Tam-Tam Boom-Boom Pili-Pili 5.11 A1, 7p • 107. Beckey-Greenwood 5.7 A2, 6p • 108. Beckey-Rowell 5.8 A4, 9p • 109. Wildflowers 5.9 **, 6p, shady and sometimes wet • 110. Kraus-McCarthy 5.8+, 8p • 111. Furry Pink 5.10c **, 8p • 112. Which Way 5.10c **, 8p, joins Furry Pink • 113. Rock the Casbah 5.9, 7p • 114. Degringolade 5.9+, 8p • 115. Attack of the Killer Chipmunks 5.9, 6p • 116. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Left Finish 5.9 • 117. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Middle Finish 5.9 **, aka Surf's Up • 118. Snowpatch - Southwest Ridge Right Finish 5.9 ** • 119. The Beach 5.10+ A1, indirect start to SW ridge, crumbly ow

  25. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  26. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  27. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  28. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  29. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  30. Snowpatch SE Corner 5.6

  31. Bugaboo Spire • Perhaps the most impressive peak in the Bugaboos, the spire is situated between the Vowell and Crescent glaciers. It has some of the most spectacular alpine climbing in Canada.  It was first climbed by Austrian Conrad Kain in 1916. The most popular routes on this peak are: The Kain Route and the Northeast Ridge. Northeast Ridge (IV 5.7) starts at the top of the Crescent Glacier. From there with 12 pitches up to 5.8 you reach the summit. At descending you can continue along the ridge to the north and reach the Kain Route. Kain Route is a long scramble with some short sections of 5.6 climbing and it leads to the south of the two summits of the Bugaboo Spire. From there you can continue along the exposed ridge to the north summit.

  32. Bugaboo Spire • Bugaboo Spire (10450') • 120. Bugaboo - Kain Left var. 5.8 • 121. Bugaboo - Kain Route 5.6 ***, 4p plus class 4 • 122. Bugaboo - Kain Right var. 5.8 • 123. Herr2 5.10, 10p, loose rock on lower section • 124. Cooper-Gran 5.11, 12p • 125. Symposium 5.8 A2+, 8p diag. system, then joins Cooper-Gran, rockfall hazard • 126. Midnight Route 5.9 A3, 10p • 127. Divine Intervention 5.11b, 9p, somewhere on E face • 128. Pretty Vacant 5.9 A2 • 129. Bugaboo - Northeast Ridge 5.7 ***, 6p plus approach, traverse and descent • 130. Bugaboo - North Face Direct 5.10 A1 • 131. Bugaboo - North Face 5.7 A1 • 132. Bugaboo - West Face 5.4, 13p, version of WFD direct to summit • 133. Bugaboo - West Face Direct 5.4 A2, joins Kain route

  33. Kain Route 5.6 (3-star) 4p

  34. NE Ridge 5.6 3-star 6por 5.8 9-12p

  35. Slesse Mountain NE Buttress5.9 12-24 pitches • One of Steck and Roper’s Fifty Classics

  36. Hound’s Tooth and Traverse of Upper Pigeon Fork of Bugaboo Glacier • 7 hr trip • Good for: • Practice glacier travel (safe enough to solo) • Weather day exercise/fun

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