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University of Plymouth: PhD data use Beach morphodynamics and hazards

3 rd Annual Meeting: South West Regional Coastal Monitoring Programme.

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University of Plymouth: PhD data use Beach morphodynamics and hazards

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  1. 3rd Annual Meeting: South West Regional Coastal Monitoring Programme T. Scott† P. Russell†, G. Masselink∞, and A. Wooler‡† School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK∞ School of Geography, University of Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK‡ Royal National Lifeboat Institution West Quay Road, BH15 1HZ, UK University of Plymouth: PhD data use Beach morphodynamics and hazards

  2. INTRODUCTION • Research themes • UK Beach Classification • Beach type and hazards • Rip current dynamics and hazard • UK Beach and Hazard assessment • (RNLI / UoP / MCS)

  3. UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION • Study sites (2007): • 120 beach sites • 4 regions • Data types: • Wave climate • Beach morphology • Sediment size • Data sources: • University of Plymouth • Channel Coastal Observatory • MetOffice • University of Wales Bangor • Environment Agency

  4. UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION • Wave climate (2007) • principal data source: • CCO directional wave buoys • 10 buoys locations • (Hs10%, Hs50%,Tm, Tp) • where not available: • MetOffice UK waters wave model output • MIKE21 SW wave model • output: • Representative wave climate for each beach

  5. UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION • Beach profiles (Autumn 2007) • data sources: • (SW and S England coasts) • CCO interim topographic surveys • University of Plymouth beach surveys • CCO LIDAR • (E England and NW Wales) • Environment Agency • UWB • output: • Sample profile geometries for each beach

  6. UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION Sediments (Autumn 2007) • Multiple sediment samples collected for each beach in the S and SW of England

  7. UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION • Data Analysis • Identification of 13 UK beach types • Conceptual morphodynamic framework

  8. BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS • Study sites (2006-2008): • 9 beach monitoring sites, Devon and Cornwall • Wave climate: • Perranporth nearshore directional wave buoy • (Hs10%, Hs50%,Tm, Tp)

  9. BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS Beach morphology • University of Plymouth monthly RTK-GPS surveys • PCO topographic surveys (baseline and interim) • PCO LIDAR data • PCO aerial imagery

  10. BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS • Beach hazard scenarios • Identification of high hazard scenarios and RNLI ‘mass rescue’ events • Wave climate from Perranporth nearshore wave buoy

  11. RIP CURRENTS • Rip experiment (August 2008) • Dynamics of high hazard tidal rip systems at Perranporth • Perranporth directional wave buoy provided deep water wave forcing during experiment

  12. SUMMARY • Data made available by the Regional Coastal Monitoring Programmeshave formed an integral part of the presented PhD research • A multitude of projects concerning coastal geomorphology, oceanography and engineering within the University of Plymouth make use and in many cases rely upon the data stream initiated and maintained through the South West Regional Coastal Monitoring Programme

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