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Lecture 5 Waves and Currents

Lecture 5 Waves and Currents. Formation of Waves. Travelling Waves. Anatomy of Waves. Forces Generating Waves are Different. Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force. Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension. Forces Generating Waves are Different.

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Lecture 5 Waves and Currents

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  1. Lecture 5 Waves and Currents

  2. Formation of Waves

  3. Travelling Waves

  4. Anatomy of Waves

  5. Forces Generating Waves are Different Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension

  6. Forces Generating Waves are Different Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity

  7. Forces Generating Waves are Different Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity

  8. Forces Generating Waves are Different Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity (standing wave)

  9. Seiche waves

  10. Forces Generating Waves are Different - Summary Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity (standing wave) Tsunami 10 min – 2 hr Seismic Gravity Tide 12.4 or 24.8 hr Gravity Gravity

  11. Tsunamis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBZGH3yieLc&lr=1&feature=mhum

  12. Transition of one wave to another

  13. Worldwide distribution of wave heights

  14. Waves and Depth Deep water Shallow water

  15. Breaking Waves

  16. Types of Breaking Waves Spilling Result from waves of low steepness (long period swell) over gentle slopes.

  17. Types of Breaking Waves Plunging Result from steeper waves over moderate slopes.

  18. Types of Breaking Waves Surging Surging breakers surge over steeply sloping (but not vertical) beaches or rocks. Occur where the beach slope exceeds wave steepness.

  19. Wave breaking Gentle – spilling Moderate – plunging Steep - surging

  20. Refraction of Waves

  21. Refraction of Waves

  22. Refraction of Waves

  23. Currents

  24. Currents - Rip currents

  25. Currents - Rip currents

  26. Currents - Coriolis Forces

  27. Currents - Open Ocean

  28. Ekman Spiral

  29. Coastal Upwelling

  30. Coastal Upwelling

  31. Coastal Upwelling - Phytoplankton

  32. Coastal Upwelling - Temperature

  33. Coastal Upwelling - Fishing 50% 0.1% Upwelling area Fishing

  34. Langmuir Cells

  35. Langmuir Cells

  36. Langmuir cells in sea ice

  37. Deep Ocean Currents Animation

  38. Next time: Coastlines

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