Brown Sauces: Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié

1. Brown Sauces:Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié “This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of perfection...”-Escoffier, (referring to demi-glace)

2. Sauce Espagnole • Generally not used directly but refined into a demi-glace or other sauce • Developed from a French brown sauce by adding Spanish tomatoes…the early 1600’s • Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock with a dark roux and tomato product • Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the stock’s color

3. Making Sauce Espagnole • Make a 1# of Brown Roux • Caramelize 2# Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted or Sautéed Mirepoix) • Roast the ½# Tomato Product • Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato & Bouquet Garni to 5-Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and Simmer 1-2 hrs • Skim Frequently • Reduce to Sauce Consistency • Strain

4. Mirepoix vs. Pinçage Mirepoix Pinçage • 2x Onion, 1x Carrot & 1x Celery • Sweetness from onion and carrot • Herbaceous notes from celery • Light and vegetal • Luke • Mirepoix plus… • Tomato product • Caramelized by roasting or sauté • More assertive flavors • Used in brown sauces and stocks • Vader

5. Demi-Glace • 50% Sauce Espagnole + 50% Brown Stock, Reduced by 50% • May be used as a finishing sauce or (more commonly) as a base for other sauces • Alternate Liaisons • Arrowroot • Cornstarch • Potato Starch • A “natural” demi-glace or glace de viande is thickened by reduction only (no roux) • Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80% • Glace de Viande reduced 90-95%

6. Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison • Reduction is usually preferred for taste and consistency • Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher cost • A roux or other liaison increases yield • Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture or add additional calories and fat.

7. Sauce Consistency Thin Consistency Sauce or Nappé Consistency Notice the coating on the spoon

8. Making Demi-Glace (Classic) • Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart Brown Stock • Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50% -90% • Mushroom Stems may be added during simmering • Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry (optional)

9. Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1) • Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix • Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot • Cover with cold water • Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage. • Reduce, season and strain

10. Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2) • Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce consistency • Requires a stock with abundant gelatin • aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande

11. Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié • Alternative to a Demi-Glace…lighter and easier • Commonly Used in Restaurants as “Demi” • Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized Mirepoix and Tomato Product) • Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot • Or, thickened by reduction only…requires an abundance of gelatin

12. “What’s Gravy?” • Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from a roast…aka, “jus lié” • In England, just a jus, not thickened • In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in “Sunday Gravy” • Some Types: • “Red-Eye” gravy, made from ham drippings and deglazed with coffee (Southern) • “Sawmill” gravy, a white gravy…essentially a béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying process…as in chicken-fried steak or a sausage gravy (Southern) • Onion Gravy • Giblet Gravy, …the only reason to eat turkey!

13. Sauce Tomate:Tomato Concassée & Tomato Coulis • French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary component • Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base sauces flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito • Tomato Concassée • Concasser: “to crush, break, or grind” • Peeled and Seeded and Chopped • Raw or Barely Cooked • Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes • Cooked • Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THEN…strain to remove excess liquid (As opposed to cooking all the down and destroying texture and delicacy.) • Tomato Coulis • Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel • Raw or Cooked

14. Tomato Sauces French Italian • Classically thickened with a roux • Uses a white stock, veal or chicken • Uses pork bones or other pork products • No Roux • Simmered with few ingredients • Oregano & Basil are commonly added

15. Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces • Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes. • Or a good canned tomato…ie, San Marzano • Avoid overcooking the tomatoes • The better the tomato the less need for other ingredients • Herbs, meats, stock, etc. • Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato flavor and add caramelization flavors • Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and vinegar or add a gastrique • Gastrique: caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar; used to flavor tomato or savory sauces

16. Canned Tomato Products • Tomato Puree • Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in a thick liquid • Tomato Sauce • Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and flavorings • Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate) • Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours, strained and reduced to thick concentrate. Generally fairly sweet. • Whole or Diced • Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked. • Crushed • Unregulated description…may have seeds or peels and varying percentages of tomato

17. Canned Tomato Products con’t. • Sweetness (ripeness) varies • Salt is added to bring out the sweetness • Citric Acid • Preserves and corrects acidity • Calcium Chloride • Maintains a firm texture • too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery" texture • Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of tomato taste. Taste is.

18. Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces Marinara* Ragu • Quick (20 Minutes) • Fresh Tomato Taste • Lacks Complexity • Long Cooking (Hours) • Complex Flavors • Usually Includes Meat and a Soffritto *Originally, a slow-simmered tomato sauce from Naples. Italian-American Marinara is generally a quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al pomodoro

19. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic

20. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or Passatutto (Removes skin & seeds.)

21. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Sweat Onions and then Garlic

22. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade darker)

23. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Add the Tomato Puree and Season

24. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce Simmer 30-45 minutes. Finish with fresh basil and splash of olive oil. Check seasoning for sugar, salt, acid & pepper.

25. Next Week’s Midterm: (Discuss) • Cauliflower Soup • Each student makes 1 quart using only: • cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and cream. • Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables • Each student makes 1 quart • From week one’s recipes • Clam Chowder • Each student makes 1 quart • Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute • Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice, potatoes, butter, cream. Salt and pepper.

26. Today’s Lab: • Espagnole • Classic Demi Glace • Demi Glace (Modern) • Tomato Sauce, French • Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce with Mediterranean Flavors) • Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale) • Miso Soup and Dashi