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Chris Kusher Managing Director Cookson Drijfhout BV Representative Responsible Jewellery Council

Chris Kusher Managing Director Cookson Drijfhout BV Representative Responsible Jewellery Council. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Building a responsible diamond, gold and. platinum metals supply chain, from mine to customer. September 2011.

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Chris Kusher Managing Director Cookson Drijfhout BV Representative Responsible Jewellery Council

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  1. Chris KusherManaging Director Cookson Drijfhout BVRepresentative Responsible Jewellery Council

  2. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) Building a responsible diamond, gold and platinum metals supply chain, from mine to customer September 2011

  3. Big Picture - Responsible Business Practices Very wide acceptance by industry and society of the need for responsiblebusiness practices: - Business ethics - Human and labour rights - Environment Performance, and perceptions of performance in,these matters may affect: - Licence to operate - Legislation and regulation - Stakeholder support - Sales - Reputation, brand - Business survival www.responsiblejewellery.com

  4. Current issues ‘Conflict diamonds’ and human rights issues • Criticisms of the Kimberley Process • Zimbabwe situation ‘Conflict gold’ Armed groups in eastern DRC Dodd-Frank Act Large-scale mining practices ‘no dirty gold’ campaign Worker conditions in jewellery pipeline • Artisanal mining • Manufacturing Source: USAID IT IS EASY FOR THESE ITEMS TO RESULT IN A FRAGMENTED APPROACH, THE AIM OF THE RJC IS PROVIDE A FRAME WORK TO ACCOMODATE ALL INTERESTIED PARTIES VIA CERTIFICATION. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  5. The role of certification Certification offers the ability to: • Define what responsible practices mean, based on a standard; and • Verify that the standard is being followed. Key considerations: • What is in the standard? • How is it verified, by whom? The highest level of transparency, credibility and complianceassurance is provided through independent verification byaccredited auditors. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  6. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) The Responsible Jewellery Council is the trading name of the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd. Mission of the RJC: To advance responsible ethical, social andenvironmental practices, which respect human rights, throughoutthe diamond, gold and platinum metals jewellery supply chain,from mine to retail. The Council’s focus is on the RJC Member Certification Systemand on the RJC Chain of Custody Certification. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  7. Governance of the Council Officers of the Council Chairman: Matt Runci: Jewelers of America Vice-Chairman: John Hall, Rio Tinto Honorary Secretary: Mark Jenkins, Signet plc Honorary Treasurer: James Suzman, De Beers Group Committee Chairs Executive Committee: Matt Runci, Jewelers of AmericaStandards Committee: Charles Chaussepied, Piaget - Ryan Taylor, The Fair Trade Jewellery Co. Communications Committee: John Hall, Rio TintoMembership Committee: Nawal Ait-Hocine, Cartier Legal Committee: Mark Jenkins, Signet plc People Committee:FazalChaudri, ExelcoInterntational LtdFinance Committee: Ruth Batson, American Gem SocietyAccreditation and Training Committee: GérardSatre, Chanel RJC Management Michael Rae, CEO www.responsiblejewellery.com

  8. Governance of the Council The Members of the Board of Directors are: Allchin, Michael - Birmingham Assay Office Baker, Donna - Gemological Institute of America Batson, Ruth - American Gem Society Bonas, Charles - Bonas & Co. Ltd. Chaudri, Fazal - Exelco International Ltd Cox , Bruce - Rio Tinto Cunningham, Vicki - H.Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc De Blanchard, Dominique - Cristofol Paris Fornas, Bernard - Cartier Hall, John - Rio Tinto Hoare, Michael - National Association of Goldsmiths Jenkins, Mark - Signet Jewelers Limited Leake, Martin - BHP Billiton Diamonds Inc Leopold-Metzger, Phillipe - Piaget Lussier, Stephen - De Beers Group Mehta, Dilip - Rosy Blue NV Palmer, Derek - Pluczenik Diamond Company NVPinet-Cuoq, Bernadette - Union Française BJOPPrevel, Patrick Martin - Christian Bernard Group Runci, Matt - Jewelers of America Simelane, Yedwa - AngloGold Ashanti LimitedSuzman, James - De Beers Group www.responsiblejewellery.com

  9. RJC Membership - Eligibility, Coverage, Commitment Eligibility - all businesses, large medium and small, and associations participating in the diamond, gold and platinum group metals jewellery supply chain and / or engaged in activities that have a potential impact onconsumer confidence in that supply chain. Coverage - all parts of the jewellery supply chain featuring a wide range ofsize, location and types of business. 300+ Members that has grown 50%from Q3 201, representing over $46 billion in annual relevant sales. Commitment - Conform to the Code of Practices by submitting to a thirdparty audit against the Code of Practices within two years of joining the Council. There is a growing alignment within the industry in support of acommon set of responsible business practices. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  10. Member Participation and Support RJC is governed by its Members and serves to assist them to achieve certification. Resources on RJC website: i. Download system documents Free RJC training delivered by online webinars and Member workshops at mainTrade Fairs: i. How to carry out Self Assessments ii. How to identify key risks in your sectoriii. Preparing for Audits Participation by Members can be seen is all levels of RJC Committee work,Standards, Communications and Accreditation/Certification. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  11. Geographical Location of RJC Members The list of RJC Members and their Certification status is available at: http://www.responsiblejewellery.com/members/overview.html Australia Belgium Australia 2% USA16% Belgium 29% United Kingdom 11% Canada United Arab Emirates 1% Chile Thailandwitzerland 0% 6% Czech Republic Spain Italy France 10% Canada Denmark 0% 4% 3% South India Africa 10% Chile 0% France Netherlandscau 1% 0% 0% Czech DenmarkRepublic Germany Mauritius Israel Germany 1% 0% 0%Luxembourg2% Ireland 1% Hong KongHonduras 0% 0% 2% 0% www.responsiblejewellery.com

  12. RJC Membership - by Fora 2% 4% 2% 24% Diamond and / or Gold Producer 50% Diamond Trading, Cutting & Polishing Gold Refining, Hedging or Trading 15% Gold and / or Diamond Jewellery Retailer 3% Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale Service Industries Trade Association www.responsiblejewellery.com

  13. RJC Standards …. Code of Practices Chain-of-Custody Standard • Responsible business practices • Responsible supply chain • Claim about the Member • Claim about the product - where company - how it runs itself does it come from, how was it made • RJC Member Certification (launched 2009) • RJC Chain-of-Custody Certification (proposed) www.responsiblejewellery.com

  14. RJC Code of Practices Defines responsible ethical, human rights, social, and environmental practices for businesses in the diamond, gold and platinum metals jewellery supply chain. Based on national and international law, established internationaland industry standards and sound business practices. Establishes objective and verifiable standards against which RJCMembers may be certified. This is a living document and will undergo content review as applicable. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  15. Scope of the Code of Practices Business Ethics: - upholding ethical business practices. Human Rights and Social Performance: - upholding fundamentalhuman rights, treating workers fairly and with respect, encouraging a diverse workforce, and provision of a safe working environment. Environmental Performance: - promoting efficient use of resources andenergy, and reducing and preventing Pollution. Management Systems: - compliance with Applicable Law, establishing policy, and managing business Risks including Contractors, Suppliers andPartners. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  16. Business Case for RJC Member Certification • Common standard - opportunity to avoid duplication. • Credible System - third party auditing, stakeholder involvement and consultation. • Support - tools and guidance, training. • Consumer recognition - a label of confidence. • Cost effective - one cost of developing the standard and system for all; largecompeting pool of auditors. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  17. RJC Standards …. Code of Practices Chain-of-Custody Standard • Responsible business practices • Responsible supply chain • Claim about the Member • Claim about the product - where company - how it runs itself does it come from, how was it made • RJC Member Certification (launched 2009) • RJC Chain-of-Custody Certification (proposed) www.responsiblejewellery.com

  18. RJC Chain-of-Custody Certification In 2010, RJC commenced discussions to develop Chain-of-Custody(CoC) Certification. Aim to provide a common, mutually recognised, supply chain-wide,voluntary standard. Design criteria: •Able to address a wide variety of systems and technologies, andsupport different types of claims. •Compliant with anti-trust laws -no restraint on competition. •Reasonable cost of implementation. •Auditable. •Clear and transparent standardsand verification system. claims. w

  19. Key Points of RJC Chain of Custody Certification  RJC is developing CoC Certification to support businesses who are interested in assurance for responsible supply chains.  CoC Certification will be voluntary, unlike the Code of Practices which is compulsory.  CoC Standard will control for conflict sources, and help support Dodd Frank implementation.  RJC is working closely with other related initiatives to align and harmonise standards wherever possible.  Final period of public comment and stakeholder engagement on draft CoC Standard closed in August 2011.  Aim to finalise and publish RJC CoC Standard in Q1, 2012. See www.responsiblejewellery.com/chain-of-custody.html for moreinformation. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  20. Why would a business use CoC Certification? Depending on the business, CoC Certification may be of interest to: • Support responsible mining practices • Source legitimate recycled materials • Identify the specific provenance of jewellery materials • Avoid ‘conflict’ resources implicated in human rights abuses, illegal or criminal practices • Enhance reputation through responsible sourcing • Carry out due diligence of your supply chain • Respond to the requests of your customers. ww

  21. Other jewellery materials During 2012, RJC will formally add platinum metals to the Certification system, as part of theplanned system review. From 2013, RJC will review possible addition ofother jewellery materials to the scope for RJCCertification. May include coloured gemstones, pearls, and silver. www.responsiblejewellery.com

  22. RJC commitment to the United Nations Global Compact The Responsible Jewellery Council has been officially registered as Participant tothe United Nations Global Compact on January 15th, 2009. RJC makes a commitment to set in motion changes to business operations so thatthe Global Compact and its ten principles become part of strategy, culture and day-to-day operations; to publicly advocate the Global Compact and its principles via available communications channels; and to communicate annually and publiclyon progress made in implementing the Global Compact principles. The RJCCommunications on Progress Report are available at: http://www.unglobalcompact.org/participants/detail/7979-Responsible- Jewellery-Council www.responsiblejewellery.com

  23. The opinion of Cookson • Their are a number of views and opinions being expressed by some of the organisations shaping the debate around the gold supply chain. • Our Industry needs to be part of the debate and part of the solution. • As a responsible Plc and Industry Leader, Cookson are proactively involved in and supportive of initiatives that bring benefits to those involved.

  24. Cookson Green Umbrella Strategy Fair Trade Ecological (Mined without Chemicals) Fair Trade Fair Mined (Fair Price Paid) Ethical (Social Investment) Green (No Environmental Damage) Recycled (Back into fine metal) A Market Leading Green Strategy Offering Genuine Choice

  25. Cookson will offer its customers Choice • Growing concern for the Human and Environmental costs of producing gold is leading designers, retailers and consumers to search for alternative choices. • Currently many of the alternatives are not yet in the position to supply commercial volumes to enable factory production of jewellery ranges for the • mass market. • This situation is restricting the speed at which the Industry can change, and in turn make a real difference to the related Human and Environmental costs. • In July 2011, Cookson took delivery of its first delivery of FairTrade gold. • In September 2011 under their “Green Umbrella” strategy Cookson launched a fully audited recycled gold in commercial volumes; that will provide an • Alternative for the jewellery market to newly mined gold. Silver will follow • This are just the first steps to making a difference.


  27. Recycled Gold

  28. Cookson Ecogold Cookson have made a significant investment in a dedicated refining line at their Sempsa site in Spain, to recycle above ground stocks of gold and silver. Any gold or silver product form other than a mined barwill be recycled back into fine gold and silver Sempsa have the International Standards Organisation’s certification for 9001 Quality 14001 Environmental 17025 Laboratory OHSA 18001 Health

  29. Brand Support • Registered Brand Name • Independent Audit Accreditation • Product Certification • Advertising • Marketing

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