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Directness of Signifier • P. 297 • Costume has been representing sexuality by means of a variety of ways such as selective exposure, hiding, and the emphasis of erogenous zone, etc. However, the recent trend prefers more direct expression of sexuality to indirect physical exposure which connotes sexuality. In the past, sexual body line could be secretly exposed through design or physical movement, and the breast would be sexually focused with see-through fabrics. Now, the direct representation of sexuality through signifier is more strongly supported by the public.
Symbolic Quality • P. 300 • According to Flugel, some costume symbolizes sexual organ, and, on the whole, the symbolic quality of costume is mostly associated with sexuality. He says that feminine symbolic quality is represented by such things as veil, girdle, garter, bracelet, jewelry; masculine symbolic quality is represented by hat, tie, coat, color, button, pants, shoes, etc. Many designers like to bestow the symbolic quality on a flower for woman, and a butterfly for man. In some cases, high-heeled shoes represent the fetishism-related symbolic quality.
Symbolic Quality 2 • P. 301 • John Galliano at his show exaggerates the sexual female body, and achieves its humorous distortion. Photo 6 expresses both internal and external femininity by way of exaggeration technique in design. Typical lady-like image is represented with up-style hair and flower-printed suit, on the other hand, vulgar image based on internal sexual desire is represented with detailed exaggeration. Model looks like Pierrot(mask performer) with her beauty spot, triangle-shape eyelashes, glistening pearl-powder-based make-up, etc. Breast tugged up by corset and the padded shoulder and hip look exaggerated in the bigger size than real.
Quality of Usualness • PP. 301-302 • Sexuality also reflected in usual look is regarded as another change. Sportism and utility as rising trends in the 1990s are more influential in the expression of sexuality to create more daily and practical images. Apart from the exaggeration-based design which is characterized by exposure, hiding, it is now getting involved in the usualness of life. Free from the limitation of lingerie and night dress, the expression is extended into usual dress or sports wear with no limitation of time and place.
Sexual Identity • ***Why do women need to be dressed in mannish or neuter(Androgynous) mode to look sexier? Why don’t they try to maximize their femininity by means of more exaggerated feminine look?
Sexual Identity 2 • PP. 305-306 • Rubinstein says that when female is dressed in male costume, the mixture of femininity and mannishness is felt to create the sense of newness and satisfaction. According to Markin, female in male costume is regarded as a being free from fear of pregnancy, so more easily bringing intimacy. In this manner, the male elements which is adopted in costume provokes the sense of unexpectedness, newness, intimacy, and sexual attraction.
Sexual Identity 3 • P. 308 • Neuter image in sexual identity issue is also changing from mannish look to the new look which contains both futuristic details and images.
Sexual Identity 4 • PP. 308-309 • Losing their aesthetic orientation, human body with antenna of insects and everyday life permeated by digital elements are portrayed in dark-toned color without showing any ornament. Thus, not female or male but digital human is suggested as a being who will lead the future, and at the same time, the aesthetic concern in the future will be more focused on the simple and digital mind than the exaggerative and decorative mind.
