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  1. CARPENTRY By: Jason Burkhart

  2. TOOLS

  3. FLOOR SYSTEM The installation of your floor system will depend on the design of your house. The guidelines we will use are 24ft wide x 48ft long with a cantilevered bay window. The floor joist will be 2inch x 10 inch we will space at 16inch centers. The girder and sill plates you learned how to install in part 1.The first thing that we are going to want to do is square up our floor or foundation. This is a repeat process and the reason for this is you will want to constantly check for squareness

  4. WALL FRAMING A typical interior wall has a skeleton of vertical 2-by-4 studs that stand between horizontal 2-by-4 base and top plates. (However, if a wall will contain extensive plumbing, it should be built from 2-by-6 studs and plates.) The framework is typically covered with gypsum wallboard (water-resistant "green" wallboard near a bathtub or shower), tile backerboard and tile, or lath and plaster.

  5. ROOF The basic principle of the traditional roof construction is to bring load-bearing cross walls up into the roof space to support horizontal running purlins . These are large section timbers onto which the rafters are fixed at regular intervals, to support the roof coverings. When large spans are involved, the purlins can be replaced with lightweight steel beams, and timber is then placed on top of these, so that rafters can be fixed.

  6. DRYWALLING You should hang your ceilings first so the walls can help support the ceiling sheets. Mark the joist locations along the wall top plates so they are easy to find once covered. Use screws for best results. They provide more holding power than drywall nails. Usually it is best to run the panels perpendicular to the joists. Also applying construction adhesive to the joist will help provide a better hold.