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Ocean Waves and Tides

Ocean Waves and Tides. Waves. Ocean waves can form from something as simple as wind or as violent as an earthquake They can travel through water slowly or incredibly quickly. Anatomy of a Wave. Waves are made of two main parts Crests : highest point of the wave

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Ocean Waves and Tides

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  1. Ocean Waves and Tides

  2. Waves • Ocean waves can form from something as simple as wind or as violent as an earthquake • They can travel through water slowly or incredibly quickly

  3. Anatomy of a Wave • Waves are made of two main parts • Crests: highest point of the wave • Troughs: lowest point of the wave

  4. Anatomy of a Wave • The distance between two adjacent wave crests or wave troughs is a wavelength • The vertical distance between a crest and trough is the wave height

  5. Wave Energy • When a wave occurs, energy from the wind moves through the water • The water particles do not move, only the energy

  6. Wave Speeds • Scientists need to know the wavelength and wave period to calculate wave speed • Wave period is the time between the passage of two crests/troughs

  7. Wave Speed Equation • Wavelength (m) = speed Wave period (s)

  8. Types of Waves • Shore currents create an undertow which brings water back into the ocean • Longshore currents cause waves to hit the shore at an angle

  9. Types of Waves • Whitecaps form in the open ocean due to heavy winds, storms • Swells also form in the open ocean, but are much longer than whitecaps

  10. Types of Waves • Tsunamis are large waves that are formed from violent activity on the ocean floor (earthquakes, landslides)

  11. Tides • The rise and fall in sea level is called tide. • A tide is caused by a giant wave produced by the gravitational pull of the Sun, Earth and Moon

  12. Tides • The tidal range is the difference between the level of the ocean at high tide and low tide.

  13. Tides • The Moon’s gravity exerts a strong pull on Earth. • The water bulges outward as Earth and the Moon revolve around a common center of mass.

  14. Tides • The ocean bulges are the high tides, and the areas of Earth’s oceans that are not toward or away from the Moon are the low tides.

  15. Spring Tides • When the Moon, Earth, and the Sun are lined up together, they cause spring tides. • During spring tides, high tides are higher and low tides are lower than normal.

  16. Neap Tides • Neap Tides are when the Sun, Earth, and the Moon form a right angle, • High tides are lower and low tides are higher than normal.

  17. Question 1 • What are two ways waves can form?

  18. Answer • Ocean waves can form from something as simple as wind or as violent as an earthquake

  19. Question 2 • What are the four parts of the anatomy of a wave?

  20. Answer • Crest, Trough, Wavelength, Wave height

  21. Question 3 • What force causes the formation of high tides and low tides?

  22. Answer • The gravitational pull between the earth and moon cause the tides

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