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This guide explores various edge finishing techniques essential for garment quality and aesthetics. It covers key hem types, including folded, blind, glued, shirtail, rolled, and clean finishes, detailing their applications and characteristics. Additionally, it discusses decorative finishes like scalloped and shell edges, as well as methods such as pinking and facing for raw edges. Understanding these techniques not only enhances garment durability but also elevates the overall look and market value of apparel, essential for designers and manufacturers alike.
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Hem • Any finish at the edge of a garment • Stitching-(EF) Edge Finishing • Hem tape • Secures hem and increases quality and price. Types:Folded, Blind, Glued, Shirtail, Rolled, Clean finish, Booked.
Folded hem • Simple: the raw edges are turned under and stitched to the garment. • Uses: Lower edge of garments, pockets, ruffles, sleeves with no cuffs.
Blind Hem • Uses Blind stitch and catches a few yarns of fabric but is not visible from the outside.
Glued Hem • Used in leather and leather like fabrics. Increases quality, no needle punches. • Seen as poor quality in other fabrics.
Shrittail hem • Narrowly folded twice and topstitched in place. 1/4” wide with one row of stitches. • Used in shirttails that are tucked in, gives a casual look, or in garments with flair.
Rolled Hem • Very narrowly rolled up to enclose a raw edge of a hem. May be topstitched, blind stitched, or over edge stitch.
Clean Finish • Narrow hem at edge • Medium to high quality apparel. • Raw edge of seam or hem allowance is folded under once and stitched. Adds bulk. • Used in lightweight fabric. • Costly- 4 passes through sewing machine.
Decorative Finishes • Scalloped, shell or lettuce Edge of hem.
Unfinished Finish • Pinking- Cut fabric with serrated blade or scissors. Used on Opaque fabric, retards raveling but doesn’t stop it.
Facing • Any Fabric used to finish a raw edge of a garment. • Used in necklines, armscye, back of garments. • Example: Button Band, French Front that covers buttons.
Bands • Decorative • Finish garment opening, Doesn’t stretch. • Used: necklines, waistline, Sleeves, Inseams, ect.